Car Shuts off while driving???

[BM3MW]

OK guys i have no clue what is going on. Here are they symtoms. Ill start the car and it starts just fine. I drive the car for like a 15 to 20 min Drive and then it starts to act up. In higher gears going up hill the car is in low RPM and kindof of sputters or struggles to get up the hill. Sometimes after Driving 15 to 20 min. to a friends house and turn the car off, it starts right back up but then on the way home ill be driving 50 mph and then the volt light comes on service engine light comes on but when i step on the gas pedal the car wont go, its just rolling. When i step on the gas pedal the boost gauge gos up and down but the car will not go. Pretty sure the car is off and just coasting. After pulling over the car wont start back up. The car has power because the starter trys to start the motor but the motor will not turn over. I had a half tank of gas at this point. So i wait like 10 min or more. Then i try starting the car and it starts but runs rough for a sec. and then cuts off again. So i wait again like 20 to 30 min later, i try to start again and it starts like normal. So i Drive the car all the way home with no problems. This happend to me today. The night before it happend to me like 4 to 5 times trying to make it home. I would drive it would cut off i would coast and wait then start back up and drive some more. I thought it was because i was soo low on gas, but today i put half a tank and it still is doing it. Sorry for the long Post. Thank you guys so much for any Info, Help or Direction You can point me in. I was thinking fuel pump maybe.

[Bing]

If you can please get the car scanned and post the code numbers here. Don't bother listening to what the guys description of the potential problems could be. You'll have to go to a garage that can scan your car (pre OBD II).

It sounds like your crank sensor could be the potential problem. But before going and throwing parts at it, get the car scanned.

[BM3MW]

Ok So i have searched and found nothing on how to Use the paper clip to pull codes off a 1994 Bon. SSEI. I found some on how to do it on a 1992 but not a 94. Any Ideas? I believe they are different but i may be wrong. I called autozone and they said they cant read codes before they year 1996 and to use the paper clip.

[J Wikoff]

94 and 95 require a scanner that can do the OBD 1.5 hybrid PCM codes. Try another store.

[willwren]

That's because friends don't let friends Autozone. They're all idiots.

The paperclip trick will not work on a 94 or 95 (93 was the last year) and you CAN cause PCM damage trying it. You have to have an OBD1 reader with an OBD2 cable.

Bing, you need to be a bit more specific when giving scan advice to a 94/95 owner. This can be a difficult scanner to find. Try other auto parts stores and local mechanics (private mechanics may not charge, or charge a small nominal fee). Dealerships will rape you. What you have is OBD1 with SOME OBD2 protocols, and an OBD2 connector. Be very specific when asking for a scan.

Ignore any advice (including crank sensor) until you get a scan. In the meantime, please inspect the color and smell of your transmission fluid after a good warmup drive. Level as well (please check at idle). You sound very much like a slipping torque converter or clutches after warmed up. If I understand it correctly, the car is not SHUTTING OFF, but rather not responding to throttle input. RPM's go up, boost gauge responds, but the car doesn't 'go'?

It also sounds like your re-start problems are a totally different issue. You may very well have multiple issues. Very carefully inspect your battery cables for any amount of corrosion, and cut back the insulation for about 1/4" on the cables to get a look inside. This is a fairly common problem.

[BM3MW]

Ok i checked the trans. Fluid the level was fine, the color was a nice clean pink/red color. I smelled it and it just smelled like Transmission Fluid to me. Not sure what i was smelling for tho. I also took the car to a small country shop and got them to run the codes for me. They said under the history the codes were (po 134, po171, po325) They then said the Current code is 325. So i hope this makes any sense to you guys because im pretty lost. Thanks

[willwren]

If you don't know how old your O2 sensor is, or if it's over 60k miles, replace it with an AC DELCO ONLY.

That may also help solve the 325. When you replace the sensor, disconnect the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes to clear the codes, and let's see what comes back. I suspect your TC is slipping though, so pay attention to how warm the engine/trans are when that problem comes up.

[BM3MW]

So all 3 codes point to the O2 sensor? Is that what i should replace first? Also is there a link that you can point me too that shows me how to replace the O2 sensor step by step

[willwren]

Your codes don't match your symptoms, but we need to rule them out. I believe your O2 codes are real. They need to be fixed before going on.

The O2 sensor is located in the rear exhaust manifold outlet. You can't miss it. You can get an O2 sensor socket if you like, but most just use a wrench. Look for the thing that looks like a spark plug installed in the rear exhaust manifold just forward of the firewall.

[BM3MW]

So Ive called some Places about buying the o2 sensor most do not have the AC Delco brand, Two did and there were more expensive, one place wants 95$ and another wants 69$ Anyone know any cheaper places or is that just what they cost? Today i turned the car on and let it idle. Someone told me to look on the fuel rail for the nipple and push it in to see if fuel sprayed out and it did, so im assuming its not a fuel problem?

[willwren]

Someone is an idiot. Fuel will always spray out if the car can idle. You need a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to know what it is, but fuel pumps can fail sometimes ONLY when they get to hot after an extended drive.

This fuel rail check has nothing to do with your problems or codes.

Get an AC Delco sensor ONLY. Find the best price you can, and try www.rockauto.com as we have a club discount (see General Chat for the code).

[obfamily]

I don't know about anyone else but I have the same problem with my 2000 Bonneville....and for everyone that says have the codes read...my answer is that we've done that more than once and each time it doesn't register a code at all.....I've changed so many things I could've bought a new car by now...but I'll keep pluggin away

[BM3MW]

OK I have changed the o2 sensor out with a new ac delco one. I left the battery disconnected for 10 min and then reconnected it. The car starts up like normal. I drove the car all day and it did not shut off on me. I still dont know if this has solved the problem though. The service light still comes on. I have not gone to check codes again because it cost me money everytime. I do have a coolent light that stays on, but this has always been the case sense i got the car. I check the coolant level and it seems to be okay. Only thing that worries me is that the coolant is a green/brown/black in color. What coolant should i get and how much does the car take? Where do i drain the coolant from( is there a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator)? Thanks for any info.

[00Beast]

Your car takes the standard green coolant, mixed 50/50 with clean, drinkable water.

There should be a drain at the bottom of the radiator.

Here's info on doing a thorough flush: http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 45&t=15064

[willwren]

The O2 sensor cannot cause your car to stall. If your coolant level sensor is faulty, simply disconnect it. It's in the rear passenger side of the radiator.

Without codes, there's not much we can do to help you.

[ginlynn43]

My car did the stalling while driving for a couple years..no one could figure it out. Someone finally did and it was the crank shaft sensor. But it drove fine. It would just randomly stall out while driving then take at LEAST 10 minutes to start back up. Never stalled again after getting that replaced and it would stall on me 3 or 4 times a week.

[RPACODY]

If all fails try this………

My 2 cents – reading the symptoms in your first post it seems to be heat related and will run ok for a while when things cool down. Codes are all over the place – It is possible that you are getting a coil pack break down when the temp comes up. Here is something that has worked for me to confirm a bad coil pack and not expensive. Go to Walmat or ? and buy a can of “air” or “dust off” really compressed C02 for blowing things out. About $6-7 bucks. Drive the car until the problem starts – pull over and spray the canned air on the coil pack CAN MUST BE UPSIDE DOWN so you get liquid C02 and rapidly cool down the coil packs- they will turn white for a short time. Wait 3-4 min and try starting/running the car. If it runs normal until it warms back up – you have failing coil packs – I have had good luck with used replacements. I know sounds kind of nuts but with my back round in trouble shooting electronics this is a good diagnostic tool at times when you don’t have scopes and scanners available. Many electronic issues are heat related when they fail.