500,000 miles and beyond

[jberd45]

I've read a list on this forum of maintinace items to replace (PCV valves, etc) What would you recommend I check out/replace at 200,000 miles, or 300,000 miles? I'm going for a longevity record as I've never seen that done yet.

[willwren]

Your car isn't worth 4 transmissions, which is what it'll take to get you there, but I guess that's your choice.

Someone will post the suggested maintenance list shortly.

[00Beast]

Here's the general maintenance stuff, other stuff should be replaced as needed (struts, ball joints, bearings, tires, brakes, etc). Honestly, if you haven't hit 200k yet I doubt you're gonna hit half a million before it rusts out, all the interior parts and electrical stuff goes kaput and you're ready to light it on fire. Most cars aren't worth going half a million miles in, because you'll be ready to get rid of it long before then.

• 1987-2005 Bonneville / Buick 3800 Maintenance List
  
  Run Seafoam, Chevron Techron or Gumout Regane through gasoline every 5,000 miles.
  
  Grease: Ball Joints, Tie Rods Every 8-10k ( Green Grease or Amsoil Grease recommended)
  Air Filter Every 15k (Amsoil EaA, Purolator PureONE)
  PCV Valve Every 30k
  MAF Sensor Element Cleaning/TB Cleaning Every 50k viewtopic.php?f=48&t=1661
  Fuel Filter Every 15-25k (Purolator, AC Delco, WIX) http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 45&t=23215
  Spark Plugs Every 30-50k (NGK TR55, AC Delco 41-101 or Autolite 605) (Never Bosch)
  Ignition Wires Every 30-50k (Napa Belden, AC Delco, Autolite Pro, NGK) (Never Taylor or Bosch)
  Oil & Filter Every 5-6k or Every 6 months (Valvoline SYNPower, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil )(Mobil1, Purolator PureONE, Amsoil EaO, K&N or WIX) (Never Fram) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=214
  *Conventional Oil Every 3k/3 months(API SM/SN rating) (WIX (Napa), Delco or Purolator filter)
  Tires: Check Inflation Pressure & Visually Inspect Monthly Rotate Every 6-8,000 Miles
  Transmission Flush or Pan Drop Every 15-20k (Always make sure filter is changed when flushed) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=10193
  Cooling System Flush Every 25-50k or 3-5 Years (Peak or Prestone Mixes-With-Any Coolant Only) (Never Dexcool)
  Oxygen Sensor Every 80-100k (30k for non-heated) (AC Delco or Denso) (Absolutely never Bosch) viewtopic.php?f=48&t=794
  Accessory Belt Inspect every 15k, replace every 100k, or as needed
  Cabin Air Filter Inspect and Replace every 15k, or as needed in dusty conditions. (Note: 00+ Only) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=13626
  Evap Core Cleaning Whenever Needed (Note: 99 and older only) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=2432
  Brake Fluid Flush 3yr/50k
  Power Steering Fluid Replacement/Flush Every 100k or 5 years
  
  *Special Considerations*
  All Series II/III 3800's RPO's: L36, L26, L67 & L32, especially important on vehicles factory installed with orange Havoline Dexcool Antifreeze/Coolant: http://www.dex-cool.net/
  Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your engine oil, this happening can cause irreversible lower engine damage, requiring replacement of subject engine)
  
  Series II, Naturally Aspirated, RPO:L36:
  Upper Intake Manifold Plenum Replacement, Every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your intake manifold, possible damage to occur can be hydrolock, irreversible damage to emissions devices, misfires, etc. Most times, engine replacement is required if ignored long enough.) viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1061
  
  Series I, II, III RPO Code L67 & L32:
  Change Supercharger Oil; Every 30-50k. (Intense Racing or GM Dealer) viewtopic.php?f=56&t=1690
  Supercharger Belt; Inspect Every 15k, Replace Every 100k or as needed.

9/6/2011 by 00Beast

[sonoma_zr2]

Here's the general maintenance stuff, other stuff should be replaced as needed (struts, ball joints, bearings, tires, brakes, etc). Honestly, if you haven't hit 200k yet I doubt you're gonna hit half a million before it rusts out, all the interior parts and electrical stuff goes kaput and you're ready to light it on fire. Most cars aren't worth going half a million miles in, because you'll be ready to get rid of it long before then.

Or some idiot driver totals it....

[00Beast]

[jberd45]

@willwren
4 transmissions? I'm at 253 thousand miles and change on the first tranny! Admittedly, it does slip a bit, and I plan on getting one to rebuild over the winter; but I think I'll do ok.

I see your points though about rust, electronics, etc. To prevent rust,I'd have to not drive the car; this would obviously make going for 500k take a very long time

It's an odd goal, I suppose; but there are F-150s with 500,000+ documented miles. I want to say a fellow in Australia has a Mercedes with over a million miles on it, been a while since I read the Guiness book of world records.
I think it's as cool a personal milestone as a faster 1/4 mile or the loudest stereo money can buy.

@00Beast Thanks for that list, I couldn't remember where in here I saw that.

In all the mechanical threads I've read so far, the concensus is AC Delco parts, yes?

[00Beast]

AC Delco for sensors and stuff like that. Filters, plugs, wires and other maintenance items can be sourced from other aftermarket brands. My brand suggestions are in the list.

[willwren]

Are you the original owner and KNOW that's the original trans? If so, it's a fluke, and don't expect even half that off the next trans.

If you're not the original owner, you're very likely mistaken. Yes, it's an odd goal, and one you're not likely to achieve, nor is it a practical goal to begin with. From a financial standpoint, it makes no sense at all. It'll cost you more than the car is worth to reach.

[BonneBill]

If you put the stainless steel sleeve in the UIM and also the reduced diameter stove pipe in the lower intake manifold, you have a much better chance of success. I've done this mod 2X and it works wonderfully. There is a write up from Bill Buttermore in the forum about it.

[00Beast]

Or he could spend $110 on an already sleeved manifold and be done with it, lol.

[jberd45]

I'll have to check out the UIM you are talking about. I believe they offer a setup with the upper intake manifold AND the LIM gaskets, like 168 bucks or so.

How about suspension? I'd imagine ball joints, tie rod ends, etc I ought to replace on general principle. If I were to get new front struts, should I get the loaded type with new coil springs, or just the strut?

[94SilverSSEi]

Getting the quickstrut (loaded strut) is MUCH easier and safer.

Changing over the springs can be very dangerous if not done properly or of you don't know what you are doing.

But the quickstruts are also more expensive so pick your poison.....


Personally I would just get the quick strut but that's just me

[00Beast]

If it ain't broke, why fix it? Do a thorough inspection and only replace what's needed. There's no need to spend money you don't need to.

Quick struts are easier and come with all new parts, but more expensive. If you have a local shop with a spring compressor, see how much they'd charge to swap the springs onto the new struts, then make the decision to run a quick strut or not. You'll also need an alignment after replacing the struts. Around here Monroe struts are recommended pretty much unanimously.

[01bonneSC]

If your only goal is 500K, dont replace stuff until its broke or you know its outta spec.

Basically all your intervals just repeat every 30K for tuneup, 80K for suspension, etc.

[DCJREDLINE]

Well I say, it may not be a "cool" or "popular" goal but GO FOR IT. If you love your car that much and enjoy doing it GO FOR IT. Having goals is good for everyone. "If you aim at nothing, you'll hit it every time". Im behind you in your goal and

[Ken_W]

Basically all your intervals just repeat every 30K for tuneup, 80K for suspension, etc.

... and 125K for a transmission apparently, plus or minus up to 50K depending upon care and luck

How about major engine work? Anybody got a typical interval (and details) for that area? Major gaskets, heads, valves, etc.? How about alternators, radiators, water pumps, power steering pumps, etc?


Ken_W