I need help with wich part i should fix 1st,2nd,3rd,etc....?

[Ilovemybonnie]

So i have a 1996 bonneville se and it cuts off while driving. so i used the oriellys auto parts scanner to get the codes. this is what i have:

Mass Air Flow Sensor
Throttle position sensor
oxygen sensor
eva
cat

Now i can pretty much replace the sensors thats really a no branner and i have a book but i dont know what part i should buy first and dont wanna waist time guessing, 2nd,3rd,etc. now i know that if my oxygen sensor is failling (wich code popd up) my vapor canistor will fail (not 100% sure im acurate as i am not a mechanic). Can anybody help me get my baby back to life other than this she is fine fresh paint and rims. thanks i appreciate any feedback

[renchjeep]

You first need to determine why it is cutting out. Fuel or spark? Does it stumble a bit, then die, or shut off like you turned the key off?

[willwren]

First of all, you have your car listed as 'not fuel injected' in your profile. I'd like to know more about that before giving you any advice. Second question would be "what is EVA?".

Instead of listing components, please give us the actual code numbers.

[Ilovemybonnie]

thanks for the replys but to answer your ? first wrench...

yea it just turns off like i turned the key off!!! i use to be able to drive from 20th to 122nd then it would cut off now i go from 20th to 30th and it cuts off. my fuel pump works, got a new crank shaft sensor, a new thermostat just bought another one just in case.
but when i try to start it back up it sometimes it stumbles then cuts off and stumbles when it dies. i dont believe its fuel related the fuel is serculating fine. i took off my oil pannell or whatever its called because it recently started smoking a little like its burning oil on the lower right side and a friend said its because i dont have that rubber mount to go around it underneath it.

You first need to determine why it is cutting out. Fuel or spark? Does it stumble a bit, then die, or shut off like you turned the key off?

Another friend said he thinks i should start with the oxygen sensor because if the oxygen sensor fails it causes the E.V.A also known as (Evaporative Emission System)to fail and send to much gas threw or somethin like that lol. to answer your ? Wilren
EVA code=P1441.

the eva code is the only number that popd up all the others where just as they are on the scanner. wich are again

(maf)MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR
(tps)Throttle position sensor
o2s= oxygen sensor
EGR= EGR Valve


I also dont no to much about non fuel injected cars or fuel injected cars for that matter i just been doin some research on my car and parts.i had my girlfriends brother work on it a litle and it didnt have this many problems now it does i just bought a peace os *shoot* honda because im having trouble restoring my car. i dont want to get rid of it so if any of this info helps let me know
thanks

First of all, you have your car listed as 'not fuel injected' in your profile. I'd like to know more about that before giving you any advice. Second question would be "what is EVA?".

Instead of listing components, please give us the actual code numbers.

[willwren]

If you don't have fault codes for the MAF, TPS, or O2, why are you even considering them?

Your only fault code is for the EVAP (not EVA, your tool may be abbreviating it?), so deal with that. However, the evap system is not capable of causing your problems UNLESS it's inducing a gross vacuum leak.

I suggest using a different tool to scan for codes as a better starting point.

[Ilovemybonnie]

im considering them because out of all the codes on the scanner these were bleaking. now before only the maf and o2 sensor where flashing but i never fixd this problem because when my mechanic was messn with it he said he didnt think thats why it was cutting off but now since he messed with it more codes where flashing and car cuts off faster.

how could i detect a vaccum leake where would i check?

[willwren]

Slow down. WHAT was blinking? The data for those sensors? That doesn't mean they're a problem. If you didn't have fault codes for them, you don't have a problem with them.

Vacuum leaks?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=w ... W43aPj_XgQ

What I like to do is spray a small shot of carb cleaner on each fitting and every sealing surface between components. If there's a leak, it'll get sucked in and you'll hear the idle speed change, as carb cleaner is combustible. Starting fluid will do the same.

You should START with a visual inspection of all vacuum lines on the motor. What RPM does your engine idle at when warmed up? What other symptoms do you have when the car shuts off? Have you cleaned and tightened your battery connections? Have you checked your ground busses?

[Ilovemybonnie]

theres no other symptoms it just shuts off. when i have to wait for something to cool down before i can start it back up wich could take 30 to and hour to a couple hrs now but before i could start it back up withn 5 min and then id have to wait about 45 to an hr before it would start back up. and im not sure what rpm idles at when it dies some times i could be sitting at a light and it just shuts off. could it be electrical???

[willwren]

What RPM does the car idle at in WARM IDLE. WARMED UP? Not when it dies. I've already figured out you have zero rpm's when it dies. That's normal.

Did you read ALL of my previous post? Including the part about the battery cables and grounds? If you expect help, you need to start following up with these checks that are given to you in this topic. We're not getting anywhere, because you're not checking what we ask, and are still asking 'what is it'. Well, we're all many many miles from you and don't have a telepathic link to your car's computer, so you're going to have to start checking some of this stuff yourself, and answering OUR questions in this topic.

Please go back to the top of the topic, and write down everything suggested to check, then go do it, then come back and give the results. With that information, we can start narrowing it down.

Add this to the list: When it won't start, depress the fuel bleed (pressure port) valve on the fuel rail. Do you get any fuel out? Have a rag handy, it'll squirt if you do.

[Ilovemybonnie]

i got a new battery and battery cables and there on securilly although sometimes when i do drive the whole car like looses power then cuts back on? and yes fuel does come out i just tested that. and i dont understand what you mean when you say (What RPM does the car idle at in WARM IDLE)? and i have not checked ground bus, where is this located and how do i check it? and i have not yet did a visual check for the vaccum leaks i been working alot but i am going to buy some carb cleaner and check that out as soon as my girlfriend gets back with my other car. i appreciate any feedback you have givn and i will let you know how the vacuum leak goes shortly.....

[00Beast]

Warm idle = sitting in park when the engine is warmed up, not on the gas. What does the tachometer (RPM gauge) read then?

[willwren]

ALL the cables are new? Incluiding grounds? Why? How long ago?