Thoughts on yanking out the old keyless?

[sandrock]

I already have the passenger side tore apart from when I removed the VATS module for good and for replacing the airmix actuator, so I was thinking why not install the remote start and new keyless module while I'm at it??

The factory keyless, even with a new transmitter and battery, has a range of about....10 feet. So unless there is a way to turn the gain up (which I don't think there is), I'd like to yank that module out altogether and use most of its input/output wiring for the new keyless/RS module. Is it possible??

[sandrock]

Nevermind....I got it.

FTR, I was able to tap into the door lock/unlock, trunk, lights, ground, horn, and factory alarm disable signals right at the module. Installed the new remote start/keyless module on the passenger side, with extension wires for the driver side stuff. Still have to install the extras, like additional outputs and the like, but remote start and keyless is fully functional, with a much nicer range

[myfirstbonnie]

Good info in case someone else wants to switch them out. My Suburban has the low range issue also. I practically have to be next to the truck to get the doors to unlock.

[kemicala]

hey i was wondering, are you using the auto tach function of your RS or did you find a tach signal wire to use?

[sandrock]

My module has virtual tach....it reads the battery voltage and immediately disengages the starter once voltage starts to climb. Works good so far, though I am half tempted to use the tach function. I already ran the wire through the firewall so all I have to do is hook it up. I believe it will be the white wire coming off of the ICM, though it can also be tapped at the firewall connector.

[kemicala]

ok. i have the viper 5701 and it has the virtual tach to but doesnt seem to be working right. it IS refurbished so i wouldnt be surprised if it still had issues. if i remember right i think i saw 2 white wires at the ICM. if you do decide to go that route please drop me a line and let me know which one you use. i dont have the right tool to test the voltages.

[sandrock]

It is going to be the one coming off of position E from the ICM connector. You can also tap off of (and where I just tapped mine from) position J7 at the firewall connector.