Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
Drum brakes are not nearly as effective as discs. The majority of braking power comes from your front brakes with the rears just keeping things in line. I rarely use the rear brake on my XS11 Yamaha. Some figures claim 80%braking on the fronts and 20% on the rears and I would tend to agree with those figures. Disc brakes use to be more expensive to put on cars and trucks. This is why you would see discs only on the front of older cars and trucks, with the exception of exotics or hi-po rigs. The technology in metals, brake pad composition and the weight savings of 4 wheel discs is why you see them on almost all cars and trucks now. Discs will not fade as fast and will recover faster than drum brakes. A disc setup is much lighter than drums and all the related hardware in most cases. You can figure replacing brake shoes once for every two times you replace pads (at least thats what I have found). I recentley converted my boat trailer to discs and the difference is gigantic.
I can tell you this Paul.... I have 128,000 miles on my Bonne, and the rear brakes have never been replaced, they are the factory shoes (with plenty of meat left), springs and drums.
Ok in my opinion they shouldnt need to be changed for a long time. I have had my Ranchero for 9 years and even though I dont drive it as much as my regular daily transportation I have not replaced the brakes yet. Here is the interesting part the shoes front and rear were last replaced in 1989!!! So this should give you an example as to how long they can last.
2003 SLE 145K PLIM, Tune, FWI, 180stat, Magnaflow cat and mufflers
1968 Galaxie Country Sedan Wagon 390/C6/2.75
My rear brakes at 160,000 miles still have lots of depth. I don't know what originals looked like but... lots left.
Someone in past suggested adjusting them because the rear adjusters sometimes don't do it well enough. I tried backing and going forward with strong brake applications to move the self adjusters but I don't think that worked. So I adjusted them myself occasionally.
That made mine a lot more willing to bite in. I also had the drums turned recently. That gave some new bite and probably wore off some of the surface of the old shoes giving my rears more effective braking for the small amount of hydraulic pressure they get.
i'm at 211k miles on the original rear shoes, and the pontiac dealer just told me i have about 5mm left on them and will need to be replaced in the next 5k miles
At 250,000 miles I bought new pads, tore everything down, cleaned it up and put my original factory pads back in place. They still had all of the thickness of the cheap replacements that I had bought. The new pads went back to the store. I am now well over 265,000 and do about 40,000 a year. I go through this same routine every couple years and I just keep returning them.
The one thing I would worry about after going so long without replacing or rehoning the brake cylinders is sudden catastrophic failure due to leakage or corrosion seisure.
Brake cylinders are only about $25. each new. Cheap insurance.
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
2000Silverbullet wrote:Wow, now that is a testament to the rear drum longevity and reliability!
Or possibly a testament to how most are out of adjustment and not being used during most braking. Most folks don't realize they last as long as they do because the are not adjusted properly. There is a noted improvement when they are adjusted.
Definitely suggest you replace the wheel cylinders, as you said, good, cheap, easy insurance. And make sure to properly bleed the system. Also...when bleeding, don't push the pedal down more than it normally goes under pressure, the seals can be damaged if there is any heavy buildup in the MC bore. Block off the brake pedal to prevent this from happening. Replacing the calipers now, also a wear item just the same as the wheel cylinders would be an excellent idea...since they're not any more expensive...there really isn't any reason not to. Also, be sure to properly adjust the drum brakes so that the shoes are just millimeters from touching the drums...this ensures proper rear braking assist, as well as a properly working emergency brake.
John Now: '15 Toyota Prius III | 134 hp 2ZR-FXE | Silver | 36k
Now: '03 Honda CR-V AWD | Slow 4-Cylinder | Dirt | 180k Then: '07 Ford Fusion SEL | 221hp Gen I VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Tungsten Silver | 150k
Then: '99 Toyota Avalon XL | 200hp 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6 | Diamond White | 189k | Sold: July 2015
Then: '11 Ford Fusion SEL | 240hp Gen II VVT Duratec 3.0 V6 | Ingot Silver | 84k | Totaled: Oct 23 '14 (Rear-Ended)
Then: '96 Buick Park Avenue Ultra | 240hp Series II L67 | Medium Dark Lichen | Bought: JAN 11 @ 135k | Accident: FEB 3 '12 | Crushed: MAR 1 '13 @ 153K
Then: '98 Pontiac Bonneville SSE | 205hp Series II 3800 L36 | Topaz Firemist | Bought: NOV '09 @ 74k | Accident: MAY 28 '10 | Crushed: MAR 15 '11 @ 84k
Then: '93 Pontiac Bonneville SE | 170hp Series I 3800 L27 | Dark Yellow Green | Bought: JULY '07 @ 92k | Sold: JULY '12 @ 118k
Then: '89 Pontiac Bonneville LE | 165hp 3800 LN3 | Medium Garnet Red | Bought: JAN '05 @ 117k | Sold: SEP 30 '07 @ 152k
2000Silverbullet wrote:The one thing I would worry about after going so long without replacing or rehoning the brake cylinders is sudden catastrophic failure due to leakage or corrosion seisure.
Brake cylinders are only about $25. each new. Cheap insurance.
Agreed. I replaced my wheel cylinders on my 95 somewhere around 80K and I replaced the pads at the same time. The only reason I replaced the pads was because they were glazed. I have around 140k on the new pads and I'm sure they will outlast the life on the car
Not sure if this is true or not, but I've heard that if the drums are adjusted properly, you should be replacing them with every second sets of front pads.
2000Silverbullet wrote:Wow, now that is a testament to the rear drum longevity and reliability!
Or possibly a testament to how most are out of adjustment and not being used during most braking. Most folks don't realize they last as long as they do because the are not adjusted properly. There is a noted improvement when they are adjusted.
X2, they don't wear if they don't get used. I adjust mine manually once a year. I find that having good working brakes in all 4 corners helps keep the car more stable in hard braking maneuvers.
2007 Grand Prix GTL32
Poly endlinks, swaybar bushings and dogbone bushings. Drop in high flow air filter. Its a start!
2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS (project BlackSheep) Bone stock for now, 5 spd and fun as hell! (Gf's Ride) 1996 Pontiac Bonneville SE Gone but not forgotten 1997 Dodge Ram Sport 4x4 5.9L The Beast!
Since I had the wheels off the rear today anyway, I adjusted the brakes after taking the air gun and blowing everthing clean of dust and dirt.
How do you adjust the rears? Just turn the knob or is there a reference point.
I just popped the drum off and turned the adjusting wheel 4 clicks to start with, put the drum back on, it seemed to be a little loose so I turned the wheel another 2 clicks. I kept doing this until the drum was dragging on the shoes, then backed the adjuster off 2 clicks.
I adjusted them 4 months ago and they needed 6 clicks on one side and 9 on the other. It makes a noticeable difference when pushing on the brake pedal.
wjcollier07 wrote:Darn it John...now you got me thinking mine's not big enough.
2001 F150 a basic six cyl with 5 speed manual trans.
'66 Piper Cherokee 360 CID , 180 hp, 155 mph @ 2500 rpm, drop in K&N filter.