compression test results are in. see page 2.

Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
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RJolly87
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by RJolly87 »

It's interesting that you are going to look at a vehicle with a purchase price that will easily cover repairs to your current vehicle that you already know quite well.
~Randall~
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by 88bonnsse »

RJolly87 wrote:It's interesting that you are going to look at a vehicle with a purchase price that will easily cover repairs to your current vehicle that you already know quite well.

why is it interesting, here are some facts about me.

i have been looking to buy a truck for the last 2 months. i have talked the guy down to $2000 even, i looked the truck over inside and out ( even checked spark plugs ). my wife still has her delta 88 and my bonneville still drives, for now.

i am going to get the truck today if i like it, and then switch insurance from my bonneville to the new truck. my wife will continue to drive her delta 88 while i look for a motor that i can trust and i will do the swap asap.. after i buy the truck if i like it, i will still have $1000 to do what ever it is i need to do to my baby ( bonnie ) and keep her with me untill the wheels fall off and she cant go no more. or gas runs out in this earth.. either or.


but my bonneville is definetly gettin fixed, and soon. i put too much time, money and my own blood into that car. i even rebuilt the car after it was *dang* near totaled.. rebuilt and repainted it my self..

but one lile question.. why is it interested that i would be buying a truck, just at the same time you found out my motor is toast.. whats the issue..
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by willwren »

The way you posted it made it look like you were tossing your car to the junk pile, and I also got that impression.

What does your Suburban purchase have to do with this topic?
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by RJolly87 »

willwren wrote:The way you posted it made it look like you were tossing your car to the junk pile, and I also got that impression.
That was the impression I was alluding to also. There was no ill feelings regarding a truck, I was just of the impression that you would be dumping one set of problems for another older vehicle, which usually brings on its own problems.

However I can appreciate getting another vehicle while the Bonnie gets fixed up good so that you have reliable transportation throughout. Not only that, but you then have a truck to haul stuff around in.
~Randall~
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by Jrs3800 »

If you are going to look for another motor, look for a series III L26 Vin 2 04-08 iirc
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by Bing »

:btruestory: Just a better motor all around. Swap all your accessories over and you should be good to go for a long time.
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by 01bonneSC »

willwren wrote:The way you posted it made it look like you were tossing your car to the junk pile, and I also got that impression.

What does your Suburban purchase have to do with this topic?
Cause I said this.
01bonneSC wrote:Id get a minivan for all your bump bumps lol
I was addressing about all the weight in the car. Since there was a concern about MPGs tanking due to the weight of his stereo system or because his engine is on the way out.
Last edited by 01bonneSC on Sat May 14, 2011 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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00Beast wrote:Less off-topic than Lane's Heated Steering wheel, but yeah, back to the topic.
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by 88bonnsse »

01bonneSC wrote:
willwren wrote:The way you posted it made it look like you were tossing your car to the junk pile, and I also got that impression.

What does your Suburban purchase have to do with this topic?
Cause I said this.
01bonneSC wrote:Id get a minivan for all your bump bumps lol
I was addressing about all the weight in the car. Since there was a concern about MPGs tanking due to the weight of his stereo system or because his engine is on the way out.

thanks for clearing that up for me..


and my bonnie is getting fixed, i can definetly afford a new motor and put it in myself, but affording another newer bonneville is out the question right now.. i am doing alot of work on my house. so i will be fixing the bonneville for my wife so it stays with me forever. and the truck is what i always wanted for my system. not as a daily driver. i will be taking my wifes delta 88 for my daily driver..



and i bought the truck today for $1800.. :btruestory: it has the 350 upgraded from the 305, with papers proving it has only 80k on the 350 motor... its 4x4 and drives nice in my opnion.. a lil slow, but i never had a truck before..

but my bonneville. is MINE. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by 1oldman »

Okay, his readings were:

dry tes
cyl#1 ( 135 ) cyl#2 (140 ) cyl#3 ( 140 ) cyl#4 (135) cyl#5 ( 136 ) cyl#6 ( 136 )

wet test
cyl#1 ( 240 ) cyl#2 (232 ) cyl#3 (235) cyl#4 ( 235 ) cyl#5 ( 237 ) cyl#6 ( 231 ).


Out of curiosity, what should be the expected readings? Thanks - BC
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by willwren »

Personally, I look for 160 or higher, all 6 cylinders within 5-10 psi dry.

No more than a 5-10% gain wet, equal across all 6 and still within 5-10 of each other. Compression results from different types of motors vary, but this is the 'good' range for a 3800, and should still be close to these numbers after 200,000 miles in most cases.

ZiLLA's current motor was selcted to those specifications. Certified by the wrecker before purchase (before they pulled it from the car) and verified by me after install. My numbers were actually slightly better than theirs, and not just due to the gauge. My spread was tighter.
Last edited by willwren on Sun May 15, 2011 6:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by 1oldman »

willwren wrote:Personally, I look for 160 or higher, all 6 cylinders within 5-10 psi dry.

No more than a 5-10% gain wet, equal across all 6 and still within 5-10 of each other. Compression results from different types of motors vary, but this is the 'good' range for a 3800, and should still be close to these numbers after 200,000 miles in most cases.

ZiLLA's current motor was selcted to those specifications. Certified by the wrecker before purchase (before they pulled it from the car) and verified by me after install. My numbers were actually slightly better than theirs, and not just due to the gauge. My spread was tighter.

Thanks Bill, I'm gonna get my youngest son to do a compression test on the ole 'green monster" some time soon just to see how wore out it really is. - BC

edit - and I will so note in my FSM VOl 1 page 6-7 - BC
Last edited by 1oldman on Sun May 15, 2011 9:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by willwren »

IIRC, the FSM states lower acceptable compression. I've found the vast majority of 3800's exceed GM specifications.
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by 1oldman »

willwren wrote:IIRC, the FSM states lower acceptable compression. I've found the vast majority of 3800's exceed GM specifications.

Yes, but I won't post what the FSM sez as it comes closer to what the readings should be for a valve in block Ford V-8. lol - BC
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Re: how do i change my oil pump ? loud noise and low oil pr

Post by michaelbsc »

Jrs3800 wrote:That is the blower motor cooler tube... The nippled has snapped off.... Common of the 94-96 or so bonnevilles to do that

Not to change the subject, but I found this post hunting for "blower" this afternoon. I just replaced the blower (thanks to directions in another thread making is way simpler than I was doing) and I noticed that the cooler hose is completely missing on mine ('95 SSE). I wondered what the hole was on the motor housing when I got the new one out of the box in the store, and I found the hole on the firewall when I took the old one out.

Can I safely ignore this? Or is the new fan going to quit PDQ because the windings/bearings are going to get compromised, meaning I need to go scrounge one up from a salvage yard if I can find one not broken?

MB
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Re: compression test results are in. see page 2.

Post by willwren »

Can you start your own 'new' topic on this? As a courtesy to the topic author and totally different subject matter in this one?
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