Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly

[dpnewfie]

Okay all,

I know the front hub's are bad. Starting to make some noise and a slight, 1/16", movement when I hold the wheel(s). Wouldn't have really noticed but I replaced the sway bar end links this morning and decided to do some inspecting.

Anyway, the question is;

Should I go with a particular brand? Some are more expensive than others. Does this mean they are necessarily better or worse?

Thanks.

[00Beast]

One of mine is a Timken from Rock Auto, and the other is the "cheap" one from NAPA, as I didn't have the 3 days to wait for another Rock Auto one to come. IMO the Timken is a little better. I think it was my tire that was making the noise more than the bearing (that I replaced with a NAPA), anyways. Don't cheap out. The Timken's were $110 each shipped with the site discount, and the NAPA one was $95. Worth the extra $20 IMO.

[Archon]

I'd also recommend the Timken over the $95 NAPA. I had a WSS go in one I got from there in less than 3 months. I've had good luck with the bearings from Intense. Both of my front bearings are from them.

[dpnewfie]

I was seeing the Timken name kicked around. Thanks for the help ya'll.

Norm

[bonneville dan-o]

the cheap ones at the auto parts stores are only rated to last 1 year or 25,000 miles. ive gone through 4 of them in two years. the more expensive ones are rated for 100,000 miles and should come with lifetime warranty IIRC

[dpnewfie]

Went ahead and ordered two (Timken - HA590093) from Rockauto, $207.xx with shipping. Could have got the exact same ones from Autozone just down the street but they wanted $315.xx. Figured a few days wait was worth the $100+ savings.

Anyway, should have them before next saturday.

Thanks.

[myfirstbonnie]

Did you make sure to use the club discount code?

[dpnewfie]

Sure did!!!

[dpnewfie]

Wanted to update this post......

Anyway, been about five weeks with the new hub assembly's up front. The install was easy and clean. The whole process took only an hour.

Still getting a lot of humming from the front but I think thats the tires. Only about 10k left on them before I need new ones.

Thanks again ya'll.

[CMNTMXR57]

Yes, most likely the tires from the wear. Do a rotation and I bet you notice how quiet the front gets. My F1's are prone to this.

[2.3 turbocoupe]

Wow, this was a timely post. My passenger side hub was replaced under warrantee at 30k miles when it started humming. Now at 62k miles The drivers side started making a very faint noise (different noise...sounds something like a light tapping on a block of wood). Then yesterday on the highway I applied the brakes moderately, and I could feel the steering wheel shake. I jacked up the car and sure enough the drivers side wheel has a lot of play.

So I ordered up the new hub with the club discount code, and it was $100.87 with the discount. Sweet! Autozone wanted $145 (plus 8.25% local sales tax).

I just hope it holds together until the new hub arrives. Has anyone had one of these things fail catastrophically?

[dpnewfie]

I put about 800 miles on mine after I ordered the new ones. No worse when I took them off as they were when I found the problem. You'll be fine.

[00Beast]

I have seen one that came apart and made all kinds of bad sounds, clunking, jerking and the balls for the bearing had literally fallen out. However, that was on a Suburban, and that is a rare occurrence. Don't put it off, but you'll be fine for a few weeks on it.

[dpnewfie]

I aslo should have said that the 800 miles was in 8 days. lol

Ed is right, get it changed as soon as you get the new one. No need in taking unnecessary risks.

[2.3 turbocoupe]

Thanks guys. Just wanted to get some thoughts...it's not getting any louder, so I should be good until the part arrives. Until then, I'm driving it easy and keeping my ears open for signs of trouble.

[00Beast]

I think you'll be fine. I do wish I had gotten pictures of that Suburban, though. Apparently it just "went" during a trip to the Twin Cities, but it literally came off in 2 pieces, the wheel hub was separated from the knuckle mount, the seals were gone, and the bearing had disintegrated and all the balls from the bearing fell out when I took it out. I think it had been done for a long time, but they had just attributed the noise to the tires or something. When it was on the lift you could move the wheel several inches up and down, and driving it into the shop was an experience, as the steering didn't work too well with all the play in that wheel...

[2.3 turbocoupe]

Wow, the part came today even though I used standard shipping. I ordered it Thursday afternoon, and it got here Saturday. They shipped it about an hour after I ordered. Impressive.

Does anyone have torque specs for the 3 hub bolts and the caliper bracket?

On another note, I now have a more serious problem. I was on the highway yesterday, and had to slow down in traffic, and my foot went to the floor. Scared the crap out of me and fortunately I had enough brakes left to slow down. I checked the fluid and it was somewhat low, so I topped it off. But the brakes did not get better. Well after nursing the car home with one foot on the e brake and one on the gear shift, I saw that it left brake fluid on the ground. I traced it and found that the brake line from the master cylinder to the abs unit was rubbing on the transmission, and it sprung a leak. Somehow a clip that holds it popped open. So now I'm really stuck. I don't see this part on RockAuto, so I am probably going to have to call the dealer Monday.

[dpnewfie]

Torque specs for those 3 bolts are 70 ft-lb. As far as the part goes; Can you tell me on this diagram which hose it is?



This is from compnine.com, and you can order from the, once you identify the part.

[2.3 turbocoupe]

Thanks dp - great info! It's number 41 in the diagram. I checked it out on the site and it's part#25752677 for the line, and 25696686 for the retaining clip. I can get both for less than $40 shipped to me, but they can't say if it is in stock. Armed with the part numbers, I am going to call a few dealerships tomorrow and see if I can find it locally for a decent price. If not, I will probably go ahead and order it, and then evaluate doing a temporary repair on the line.

[zigger21]

One of mine is a Timken from Rock Auto, and the other is the "cheap" one from NAPA, as I didn't have the 3 days to wait for another Rock Auto one to come. IMO the Timken is a little better. I think it was my tire that was making the noise more than the bearing (that I replaced with a NAPA), anyways. Don't cheap out. The Timken's were $110 each shipped with the site discount, and the NAPA one was $95. Worth the extra $20 IMO.

Hi all, my life is bearings. I am a program Manager for a reliability group at a corn milling facility and we do vibration, Infrared, and ultrasound analysis on all our motor,pump,fan and conveyor bearings. We monitor over 1000 bearings a month and our most reliable bearings that we install on our equipment are Timken, SKF or Dodge bearings(no relation to the vehicle manufacturer). I replaced my front wheel bearings on my 2004 Yukon XL with Timken bearings but you also have to remember that the bearings will last longer if they are properly lubricated over time. My 2005 will get timkens once they start going out because reliability on Timkens are great when it comes to the PF curve. If you would like anymore information on bearings PM me and I would be glad to help. Take Care