2nd battery install.

[2KSexsei]

I graduated from an 8 month course in Arizona to become a certified car audio installer. The only reason an isolator is needed is to prevent the system from draining the main starting battery. Put a fuse between the 2 (pos) batterys and you won't have that "time bomb" under the rear seat. Sure, put an isolator on a boat so that when you are trolling in the middle of no where and want to start the main engine to go home.. Makes perfect sense. It's not needed here. Don't waste the money on one. Buy a fuse or a circuit breaker and be done with it.

[stevew9983]

I have to agree with the last post. I did a massive system in 2002 F-150 that had a 2 battery setup in it. Upgraded alternator to a high output 250 amp alternator, upgraded all my main 12v hot wires to 2 gauge and my 2 grounds also to 2 gauge. Ran a 0 gauge wire from front battery (Optima red top dual terminal) to second battery located inside the truck under rear seat (also Optima red top dual terminal). grounded my 2nd battery by itself and running 2 150 amp fuses. I am currently running 5 amps total, 1 amp on door speakers and 4 amps 1 for each of my 12 inch subs. No isolator used and my headlights do not even flicker at night time driving. Not that it matters but the amps are real amps too not the Wal-Mart specials you pay 119.99 for. Mine are Memphis 1000.1 class d competition style amps that are currently doing 1000 watts at 1 ohm stable.

So back to the original poster and his problem, maybe try grounding your 2nd battery by itself and finding a new ground for your amp. Or also try taking a wire brush on a drill and sand away some paint to give you a good clean grounding surface for the amp and battery. Either way, good luck, hope you fix it soon.

[willwren]

Guys, the original poster hasn't posted in this topic in how many months?

Please don't dig old crap up. Start another topic of your own if you want to discuss it.