A few questions about Suspension

[willwren]

Enjoy:

Swaybar links are very easy, but when you get ready to replace them keep in mind you want to tighten them until they just start to compress. Removing the old ones is best done with a sawzall or reciprocating saw. Just cut it. Take a picture before you do. Buy the correct length kit at Autozone. The sell Energy Suspension endlink kits made of polyurethane. It's a good improvement over stock.

The link kit from GM is crap. Not sure when the change happened, but GM is using plastic spacers and washers on the new kits (verified in person at the local dealer). I think the plastic would give too much, and doesn't provide enough support for the insulators, especially on the firmer SSE/SSEi suspensions. Wanna firm up your ride?

Buy Energy Suspension kit #9.8120RC. This kit is for the left and right (front) endlinks. It's complete with BIGGER than stock bolts (and shorter, thank god), washers, and POLYURETHANE bushings (insulators). I got mine at Autozone for about $15 for BOTH sides (in the same package....full front kit). You don't need a maintenance manual. Just a good set of ramps and basic tools.

Wanna do the rear? Leave it to GM. They don't sell a kit for the rear. Each individual piece (bolt, nut, 2 washers, 3 insulators) have to be purchased seperately. Combined, it'll run you about $25. I have a better idea. Buy just the BOLT from GM. Get 2 of the 10026678 bolts (trust me, you want new....don't re-use the old), should run just shy of 4 bucks each. Then go to your local hardware store and buy two 8mm 'nylock' hex nuts. Fit them to the bolts to make sure, and try to get stainless steel. Now go BACK to Autozone and buy the Energy Suspension kit # 9.8105RC Bushing set. Comes with 8 washers and 8 bushings (insulators). You'll have 2 extra of each. Cost me $9 (US).

As far as the swaybar to frame bushings are concerned, some poly alternatives have been found over the years. Some have cracked, mine have not, but I didn't notice much difference either. Just grab the bushings and clamps from the donor vehicle and stay with those on your larger bars.

[Jrs3800]

The only center link bushing we can get for the Bar to Frame on the rear is the Rubber, they generally hold up, but a replacement set could never hurt..

[Schlotzky]

Enjoy:

Swaybar links are very easy, but when you get ready to replace them keep in mind you want to tighten them until they just start to compress. Removing the old ones is best done with a sawzall or reciprocating saw. Just cut it. Take a picture before you do. Buy the correct length kit at Autozone. The sell Energy Suspension endlink kits made of polyurethane. It's a good improvement over stock.

The link kit from GM is crap. Not sure when the change happened, but GM is using plastic spacers and washers on the new kits (verified in person at the local dealer). I think the plastic would give too much, and doesn't provide enough support for the insulators, especially on the firmer SSE/SSEi suspensions. Wanna firm up your ride?

Buy Energy Suspension kit #9.8120RC. This kit is for the left and right (front) endlinks. It's complete with BIGGER than stock bolts (and shorter, thank god), washers, and POLYURETHANE bushings (insulators). I got mine at Autozone for about $15 for BOTH sides (in the same package....full front kit). You don't need a maintenance manual. Just a good set of ramps and basic tools.

Wanna do the rear? Leave it to GM. They don't sell a kit for the rear. Each individual piece (bolt, nut, 2 washers, 3 insulators) have to be purchased seperately. Combined, it'll run you about $25. I have a better idea. Buy just the BOLT from GM. Get 2 of the 10026678 bolts (trust me, you want new....don't re-use the old), should run just shy of 4 bucks each. Then go to your local hardware store and buy two 8mm 'nylock' hex nuts. Fit them to the bolts to make sure, and try to get stainless steel. Now go BACK to Autozone and buy the Energy Suspension kit # 9.8105RC Bushing set. Comes with 8 washers and 8 bushings (insulators). You'll have 2 extra of each. Cost me $9 (US).

As far as the swaybar to frame bushings are concerned, some poly alternatives have been found over the years. Some have cracked, mine have not, but I didn't notice much difference either. Just grab the bushings and clamps from the donor vehicle and stay with those on your larger bars.

Yeah, I came across that info a couple times in my searching. Good stuff, but I ended up going with MOOG. MOOG actually has a set of the rear endlinks in their poly alternative they call thermoplastic. Your way is probably still cheaper though.

The rear center links do look pretty worn, so I may go ahead and get a new set of rubbers, they were pretty cheap.

[willwren]

Thermoplastic is junk. That's what the front endlink spacers are from 96 and newer, they compress, crack, and wear out. Your bushings will do the same.

[Schlotzky]

Well dammit, why weren't you here earlier when I asked about them?

Eh, I kinda doubt I'll have the car long enough to see them crack and wear out unless it happens within a few years. If that's so, then they are a useless waste of money. But we'll see. I did notice a mild performance increase.

[Schlotzky]

Second update: Moog does not actually have a correct rear endlink kit. The parts store had the endlinks for the front listed as working on the rears; didn't realize this until they came in on special order. I did the make your own with ES instead.

[Schlotzky]

Question:

Monroe finally got back to me via email and gave me the spring rates. They attached this picture:




No units or anything. Anyone know what this might equate to in lbs? I tried a few force calculations and unit conversions but never came up with anything in the expected range. Anyone have any idea?

[Jrs3800]

Thats all they were able to come up with? They couldn't give you a rating in Lbs? wow just wow

[Schlotzky]

And it only took them 2 weeks to get back to me! The guy I called at tech support, the only thing I could understand he was saying was: 'same as OE'. He didn't understand what I meant when i said there are two different spring rates from the factory.

[Need For Steve]

wow...a wealth of knowledge, this thread.

now to order my stuff and get this done.

[Bigerik]

There is a 22 mm rear bar. It was on the 91-93 Olds Touring Sedan. Very hard to find, but they are out there.

[Neanderthal]

Yep, a wealth of good info in this thread. Thanks all.