Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
I'm having problems getting 1 of the 4 long bolts out on the water pump and I cant remember how I did it last time.
The problem I'm having is the support bracket for the Altenator, Power Steering pump and the Tensioner is covering one of the Water pump bolts.
Here is a pic of the bolt thats giving me a hard time.
I checked Mitchell and Haynes manuals but they are of no help. They just show the non-SC engines.
I really don't want to have to take off all the stuff I mentioned above for one bolt on the pump.
Anyone know a short cut or trick ???
WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers 2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
I'm just trying to avoid doing all the extra work, taking off all that extra crap for one stupid bolt.
I was thinking of dremeling the bracket just enough to allow a socket to fit over the bolt head.
Do you know what the difference is (Material) between the Felpro gasket and the standard one for the Water Pump ?
I've had good luck with the blue plastic Felpro gasket. No leaks, and if you take the pump off, there's no gasket to srape off.
WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers 2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
Appears to me the water pump on the 93 SSE is about the same as the 92. The instructions I have in the shop manual shows removing the accessory bracket, but also removing the engine mount. How difficult was removing the engine mount and reconnecting it afterwards? To me that part sounds more intimidating than the accessory bracket. My water pump has lasted 175K miles, so I am thinking I may want to replace it before it quits on its own. When (how many miles) did you have to replace yours? My engine temp reads between 200/210 usually, unless I am stuck in traffic--then it creeps up to 215/220 level fairly quickly, especially here in south Texas where the temps are sometimes 100+ along I-10.
You cannot predict the failure of a water pump based on miles, nor can you base it on average engine temps. The failure mode has nothing to do with either.
Your water pump will fail when one of these happens:
1. The seal for the bearing ruptures, and coolant leaks out the weep hole.
2. The bearing cooks itself making really cool noises.
3. The shaft shears off and stops pumping coolant.
#1 is the most common. It gives a nice visual indication you need to do something, and the warning usually comes before it gets critical.
Thanks for the tips, Willwren, I will watch for any of those clues. Any tips for removing that engine mount? And if/when I do replace the water pump, any suggestions for which brand pump to put back in?
Buy the AC Delco pump from http://www.rockauto.com and use our club discount listed in General Chat. The AC Delco pump for the Series 1 is a cast-impeller superior design to the Series 2 stamped pump (and should be considered by any S2 owner for conversion, you just have to use the S1 water pump pulley with it).
To remove the mount, you need to jack the motor with a block of wood to support the oil pan. Lift the load off it, then remove the long bolt running through the mount. You may want to disconnect from the frame AND motor to make it easier, but it's the piece on the motor you need out of the way. Those bolts (3 of them) will be very tight, and the studs are long, which is why you may find it easier to remove the bolts on the subframe half of the mount as well.
Inspect the knuckle half of the mount when you have it out. If you see cracks, replace it. This is an oil-filled mount designed to dampen engine vibrations.
Last edited by willwren on Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks again for the tips, Willwren. I will check out that discount on Rockauto, and examine the mount knuckle too. Hard to find that type of practical information in the book.
