2002 SSEi Mods

[Schweet97Z]

Im not new to modifying cars, but I am however new to Bonneville's. My SSEi is my daily driver. Im not looking to turn it into a race car, but wouldn't mind some more ponies out of it. A close friend of mine has a dyno and tuning software. So we are going to throw a tune on it. But my question is, what size pulley is acceptable with the following specifications.

Must keep stock injectors
Must keep same gas mileage (out of boost of course)


Im looking to keep these mods cheap. I dont want to add exhaust because it is a driver and I dont want a loud car. Also I dont want to be replacing alot of parts due to breaking, etc. I just figured I would add a couple things since the car is getting a tune. Any other information and constructive critisim is appreciated.

Thanks,
Harold

[00Beast]

First off, what have you done for maintenance on this car? I'm going to attach the maintenance list to this post. Go through it and address any areas you haven't recently (or ever).

Secondly, to address your question, what other mods do you want? With a smaller pulley I'd suggest at minimum of an Intense FWI or similar ( http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/mer ... _Induction ). I would also suggest going to a 180* thermostat, depending on where you live. Also, with no exhaust mods, I'd stick with a 3.5 or 3.6" pulley (stock is 3.8"), plus your buddy's tune. Does he have experience tuning 3800's?

Oh, and Welcome!! Stick around here and you'll learn all you ever need to know about Bonnevilles.

Here's the maintenance list:

• 1987-2005 Bonneville / Buick 3800 Maintenance List
  
  Run Seafoam through gasoline and intake every 5,000 miles. One pint of Seafoam in a half tank of fuel is a good mix. The intake is optional, but recommended.
  
  Grease: Ball Joints, Tie Rods Every 8-10k ( Green Grease recommended)
  Air Filter Every 15k (Amsoil EaA, Purolator PureONE)
  PCV Valve Every 30k
  MAF Sensor Element Cleaning/TB Cleaning Every 50k viewtopic.php?f=48&t=1661
  Fuel Filter Every 15-25k (Purolator, AC Delco, WIX)
  Spark Plugs Every 30-50k (NGK TR55 or Autolite 605) (Never Bosch)
  Ignition Wires Every 30-50k (Napa Belden, AC Delco, Autolite Pro, NGK) (Never Taylor or Bosch)
  Oil & Filter Every 5-6k or Every 6 months (Mobil1 or Amsoil)(Mobil1, Purolator PureONE, Amsoil EaO or WIX) (Never Fram) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=214
  *Conventional Oil Every 3k/3 months(Pennzoil with a WIX (Napa), Delco or Purolator filter)
  Transmission Flush or Pan Drop Every 15-20k (Always make sure filter is changed when flushed) http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 45&t=10193
  Cooling System Flush Every 25-50k or 3-5 Years (Peak or Prestone Green Coolant Only) (Never Dexcool)
  Oxygen Sensor Every 80-100k (30k for non-heated) (AC Delco or Denso) (Absolutely never Bosch) viewtopic.php?f=48&t=794
  Accessory Belt Inspect every 15k, replace every 100k, or as needed
  Cabin Air Filter Inspect and Replace every 15k, or as needed in dusty conditions. (Note: 00+ Only)
  Evap Core Cleaning Whenever Needed (Note: 99 and older only) viewtopic.php?f=45&t=2432
  
  *Special Considerations*
  All 3800s, LG3, LN3, L27, L36, L26, L67 & L32, especially important on vehicles factory installed with orange Havoline Dexcool Antifreeze/Coolant: http://www.dex-cool.net/
  Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your engine oil, this happening can cause irreversible lower engine damage, requiring replacement of subject engine)
  
  Series II, Naturally Aspirated, RPO:L36:
  Upper Intake Manifold Plenum Replacement, Every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your intake manifold, possible damage to occur can be hydrolock, irreversible damage to emissions devices, misfires, etc. Most times, engine replacement is required if ignored long enough.) viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1061
  
  Series I, II, III RPO Code L67 & L32:
  Change Supercharger Oil; Every 30-50k. (Intense Racing or GM Dealer) viewtopic.php?f=56&t=1690
  Supercharger Belt; Inspect Every 15k, Replace Every 100k or as needed.

6/21/10 by 00Beast

[Schweet97Z]

Thanks for the welcome and the list! My friend does have a alot of knowledge tuning. He is mostly Mustang Cobra, Fbody, and Corvette based, but has tuned lots of turbo and supercharger vehicles. That being said. I planned on getting the FWI kit. There are a few things I still need to do on the maint. list. My car has 134,000 miles on it. The car is in great condition. I think an older couple owned it. This list is updated on what needs done. However I have a couple questions. (IN RED)

Is a 2002 SSEi a Series II L36?

Grease: Ball Joints, Tie Rods Every 8-10k ( Green Grease recommended)

PCV Valve Every 30k

Spark Plugs Every 30-50k (NGK TR55 or Autolite 605) (Never Bosch)

Ignition Wires Every 30-50k (Napa Belden, AC Delco, Autolite Pro, NGK) (Never Taylor or Bosch)

*Conventional Oil Every 3k/3 months(Pennzoil with a WIX (Napa), Delco or Purolator filter) Why not Synthetic?

Cooling System Flush Every 25-50k or 3-5 Years (Peak or Prestone Green Coolant Only) (Never Dexcool) Current Antifreeze appears to be Dexcool.

Oxygen Sensor Every 80-100k (30k for non-heated) (AC Delco or Denso) (Absolutely never Bosch) viewtopic.php?f=48&t=794

Accessory Belt Inspect every 15k, replace every 100k, or as needed



*Special Considerations*
All 3800s, LG3, LN3, L27, L36, L26, L67 & L32, especially important on vehicles factory installed with orange Havoline Dexcool Antifreeze/Coolant: http://www.dex-cool.net/
Lower Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement, every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your engine oil, this happening can cause irreversible lower engine damage, requiring replacement of subject engine)

Series II, Naturally Aspirated, RPO:L36:
Upper Intake Manifold Plenum Replacement, Every 80-100k (ignorance of this can allow coolant to enter your intake manifold, possible damage to occur can be hydrolock, irreversible damage to emissions devices, misfires, etc. Most times, engine replacement is required if ignored long enough.) viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1061

Series I, II, III RPO Code L67 & L32:
Change Supercharger Oil; Every 30-50k. (Intense Racing or GM Dealer) viewtopic.php?f=56&t=1690
Supercharger Belt; Inspect Every 15k, Replace Every 100k or as needed.

[J Wikoff]

You have a Series II L67. The L36 is not supercharged.

Sometimes leaks show up if you switch to synthetic on an older vehicle that hasn't had it much/if any before. Your choice, IMO.

Old dex-cool can sludge up, and also may contribute to early LIM gasket failure. Dex was reformulated at some point (I can't find a definate year, but my theory is for 04 models) and isn't supposed to have as much problem anymore.

I'd take a look at the LIM gaskets whether it has Dex in it or not. You can see the edges of them between the LIM and the heads. If you see black plastic, plan on replacing them as preventative mainenance with the newer aluminum gaskets. If you see black plastic and your coolant is slowly, or maybe even quickly, disappearing without any evidence of an external leak, change them now. If you see aluminum edges, just check your radiator and flush as needed, then continue on your merry way.

[Schweet97Z]

Thanks! Would you happen to have a part number for the new aluminum LIM Gasket?

[J Wikoff]

89017825 is the GM aluminum gasket set for an L67. It looks like Felpro makes them too, MS98014T. I'd confirm with the store that the Felpro set is aluminum and for an L67 before if you want to order them.

[Schweet97Z]

Thanks alot! What size injectors in Lbs do the cars have stock? Im assuming injectors from an F-body will work as well on these cars? And how does everyone feel about this FWI.

http://www.wbodystore.com/grandprix/JMB ... -p-63.html


Sorry for being such a PITA and for all the questions!

[J Wikoff]

Series II injectors and intakes, I'm not very familiar with.

[00Beast]

First off, you can see that conventional was a note after the Oil & Filter part, stating the interval, and which conventional oils we recommended. I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 in my car (full synthetic) and I love it. 165k and running strong.

The JMB setup is metal, which retains heat, plus is $20 more than the Intense piece. The intense is rubber which helps block heat, and uses a very large K&N filter located in the bumper, where there is cooler, outside temp air, versus the engine bay temp air that most other intakes suck in.

Stock injectors are 36 lb/hr IIRC, and I do not know if the F-Body (LS1) injectors will fit or not. I don't think anyone here has done them.

I highly recommend replacing the LIM gaskets for the aluminum pieces, and flushing your cooling system and putting in "Mixes With Any" type coolant.

Also, your car being an 02 it probably has nothing to grease underneath, as GM went with "lubed for life" ball joints and tie-rod ends. I just replaced my tie-rod ends with NAPA units, and they are greaseable, which should last much longer than the stockers.

Sorry for being such a PITA and for all the questions!

The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked. I'm 18, and without all the stupid questions I've asked on here and elsewhere, I wouldn't know half of what I know now.

[gonzo4191]

Sorry for being such a PITA and for all the questions!

The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked. I'm 18, and without all the stupid questions I've asked on here and elsewhere, I wouldn't know half of what I know now.

welcome!! where u at and dont listen to ed or you'll have 10k posts

[Schweet97Z]

First off, you can see that conventional was a note after the Oil & Filter part, stating the interval, and which conventional oils we recommended. I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 in my car (full synthetic) and I love it. 165k and running strong.

The JMB setup is metal, which retains heat, plus is $20 more than the Intense piece. The intense is rubber which helps block heat, and uses a very large K&N filter located in the bumper, where there is cooler, outside temp air, versus the engine bay temp air that most other intakes suck in.

Stock injectors are 36 lb/hr IIRC, and I do not know if the F-Body (LS1) injectors will fit or not. I don't think anyone here has done them.

I highly recommend replacing the LIM gaskets for the aluminum pieces, and flushing your cooling system and putting in "Mixes With Any" type coolant.

Also, your car being an 02 it probably has nothing to grease underneath, as GM went with "lubed for life" ball joints and tie-rod ends. I just replaced my tie-rod ends with NAPA units, and they are greaseable, which should last much longer than the stockers.

Sorry for being such a PITA and for all the questions!

The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked. I'm 18, and without all the stupid questions I've asked on here and elsewhere, I wouldn't know half of what I know now.

The JMB intake uses a K&N filter and is also a fender well system. As far as the metal vs rubber/plastic debate goes, it has been beaten to death on the F-body forums, and I personally hold the opinion that air flows way to fast for it to obtain any heat to make is not beneficial. I mean it might raise the temp a degree or two @ most. But I personally would rather have a metal intake system. Thats just my opinion.

I have LIM gaskets on order!

Im going to double check for grease fittings as im not sure what has already been replaced on the car. Thanks for the info! Also im probably going to try 42lb ls1/lt1 injectors. They are the same, the only thing that is different is the Fuel pressure that they are ran at.

[J Wikoff]

Is there a problem with your stock injectors? You have a little bit of headroom before they go static and it goes lean.

[Schweet97Z]

Is there a problem with your stock injectors? You have a little bit of headroom before they go static and it goes lean.

Thats true. Nothing wrong with mine. Who knows maybe there will be a day that ill need bigger injectors.

[J Wikoff]

A cleaned and matched set might not be a bad idea though. Being matched is pretty important for consistancy and max output for a given setup. We've got a vendor here that does a really good job. It's in the links section up top. Fuel Injection Enterprises.

[00Beast]

You will not outflow the stock injectors until you are cammed with headers, and even then it will be right on the verge.

The Major difference between the JDM kit and the Intense kit, other than cost: The JDM kit was designed for the GP/W-body, and can be adapted to the Bonnie. The Intense Kit was designed for the Bonne and is easily adaptable to the GP/W-bod. Most of the members around here run the Intense kit, and I haven't seen one report of someone who doesn't love theirs. I do.

[Schweet97Z]

OK so im going to get a zzp 3.5 pulley, fwi, 160* thermostat, and tune. Do you all think I should keep the stock heat range plugs (TR55's) or go colder (TR6)?

[00Beast]

Go TR55's. That's what I have in my car right now. Unless you live on the equator, 160* is gonna be too cold. Get a 180* thermostat. Just curious, why ZZP pulley vs. Intense and all the others?

[Schweet97Z]

ok 180* it is. I live in PA and we can have some brutal hot summers, but winter can also be a b*tch as well. As far as the pulley goes, its really nothing personal. I can just get the pulley cheaper from zzp.

[Schweet97Z]

What does your temp gauge read with a 180* stat?

[00Beast]

The stock gauge reads 200°, just because it's programmed to read that between 180* and 220* so that way people don't freak out because it's fluctuating. My Aeroforce (scanguage) reads 180° or so.