Buzzing sound
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03SSEISUPERCHARGED
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Buzzing sound
Well 3 weeks ago I got new firestones put on put on the rears at pomps here in Sheboygan. Well the tires i got during the summer(which are the same ones) got rotated to the back and the new ones on the front. Today on the highway going to work I noticed a small buzzing sound when driving. I called pomps they told me bring it in we double check it and look it over. They said that the car is sound mechanically and bearing and joints are good(I checked the fronts by putting my hands on them and seeing if there was any give to check if the bearing is bad felt great). I did re tighten the lugs because after i got the tires put on(3 weeks ago), the next day I had to make a 1,000 mile round trip to visit my gf. So the guy said that the tires are good but my alignment needs to be done and that should help everything and get rid of the buzzing sound. I have had my car for about 3 years and never had an alignment done, I guess I'm asking if this sounds about right to you guys? Also no noise what so ever when turning not even the buzzin sound so I don't think its an wheel bearing. Ideas and thoughts are great.
Also 49.99 for alignment.
Also 49.99 for alignment.
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Re: Buzzing sound
Probably a wheel bearing.
Bad alignment won't cause the buzzing sound.
You won't be able to feel any play or looseness.
Bad alignment won't cause the buzzing sound.
You won't be able to feel any play or looseness.

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1fatcat
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Re: Buzzing sound
What kind of firestones? I have a newish set of tires (not firestone) that have been noisy from day one. They were new when I bought them, but they now have about 12,000 noisy miles on them. My old, well used tires were silent compared to these. No alignment issues here, there was a night and day difference when I changed mine and I have no abnormal wear on my new or old set of tires.
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03SSEISUPERCHARGED
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Re: Buzzing sound
Well looks like it was the aligment, the front passenger was stright, but the driver side front was pointing out to the left a good amount i guess which wasn't giving the proper wear pattern on the tires and thats y we have the buzzing sound. So thats fixed and just gotta get a good wear pattern back on and we should be back to normal. He said the tires were cupping, I should of asked what that is cause i have no clue. He said put your right hand stright and your left slightly turned to the left and thats what you car is doing just enough to wear the tire pattern bad and not give it the proper wear pattern.2000Silverbullet wrote:Probably a wheel bearing.
Bad alignment won't cause the buzzing sound.
You won't be able to feel any play or looseness.
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1fatcat
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Re: Buzzing sound
Cupping is a term used to describe an abnormal wear pattern on the tire. It is caused by the alignment being out of spec.
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00Beast
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Re: Buzzing sound
What model Firestones did you put on?
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RIP sandrock

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03SSEISUPERCHARGED
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Re: Buzzing sound
p235/55hr17 fr710 blk
- 2000Silverbullet
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Re: Buzzing sound
First time I ever heard of a cupped tire causing a buzzing noise but if the noise is gone that's all that matters.
Next time record the sound so we can better diagnose the problem.
Next time record the sound so we can better diagnose the problem.

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
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03SSEISUPERCHARGED
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Re: Buzzing sound
It would be very hard for it to get picked up on a mic i bet. The buzzing is slowly going away as the wear patter seems to be getting better. I can't noticed it when the raido is on any more before I could. But if it isn't going in a week I guess I need bearings but I hope that isn't the case.2000Silverbullet wrote:First time I ever heard of a cupped tire causing a buzzing noise but if the noise is gone that's all that matters.
Next time record the sound so we can better diagnose the problem.
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Re: Buzzing sound
My son slid the backend around into a curb last year.
The alignment was off a ton. We got it realigned but within two months the bearing began to buzz.
The alignment was off a ton. We got it realigned but within two months the bearing began to buzz.

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
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03SSEISUPERCHARGED
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Re: Buzzing sound
Well the buzzing hasn't gone away. Its gotta be a wheel bearing. Looks like a set will cost me 100 bucks. Does anyone know or have a write up on how to replace them? I find it odd that after I took it in to get the new tires on the bearing takes a crap.
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Re: Buzzing sound
My bet is it wasn't the tires but the bearing that has always been making the noise.
The reason your alignment was so bad was probably because the wheel took a hard hit. That hit could have taken out the bearing.
The only special tool you will need besides a T-55 for the three hub bolts is an axle nut deep socket specific for GM vehicles. Most auto stores have them.
A pair of hubs will cost more like $300 from GM. Don't buy cheap garbage hubs or you will be changing them in 6 months.
The reason your alignment was so bad was probably because the wheel took a hard hit. That hit could have taken out the bearing.
The only special tool you will need besides a T-55 for the three hub bolts is an axle nut deep socket specific for GM vehicles. Most auto stores have them.
A pair of hubs will cost more like $300 from GM. Don't buy cheap garbage hubs or you will be changing them in 6 months.

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
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00Beast
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Re: Buzzing sound
Paul, 00+ is completely different than your 94, but I do agree that hitting a curb abruptly or the like probably did a number on the hub and the alignment, causing the issues.
You will need a 34mm socket for the axle nut, and a 13 mm socket for the bolts, which you access from the backside of the knuckle, plus a 15mm and a 17mm to remove the brake caliper and bracket. Paint the back of the hub with anti-sieze, so it comes off easy next time. When I replaced mine, I got a Timken from Rock Auto, $110 shipped with the site discount. No issues in the past few months that it's been on.
The bearing you're looking at replacing is the front, correct? Rears are easier, as there is no axle. Basically whatever tools you would need to do brakes, plus whatever socket is needed for the hub bolts.
You will need a 34mm socket for the axle nut, and a 13 mm socket for the bolts, which you access from the backside of the knuckle, plus a 15mm and a 17mm to remove the brake caliper and bracket. Paint the back of the hub with anti-sieze, so it comes off easy next time. When I replaced mine, I got a Timken from Rock Auto, $110 shipped with the site discount. No issues in the past few months that it's been on.
The bearing you're looking at replacing is the front, correct? Rears are easier, as there is no axle. Basically whatever tools you would need to do brakes, plus whatever socket is needed for the hub bolts.
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

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Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
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Re: Buzzing sound
LOL ya Ed I wouldn't know cause I've never changed a hub on a +00..............cause I've never hit anything in 10 years....... Cause it never comes out of the garage

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
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Re: Buzzing sound
That and you drive like 25 miles a year! 
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03SSEISUPERCHARGED
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Re: Buzzing sound
I never hit anything with it so I guess maybe it was just the fact that it needs to be replaced from wear and tear. I am gonna get a pair of used hubs from ed morad. I got ones for the rear and they are in great shape still. Also yes it is the front, I wish it was the back ones.
Last edited by 03SSEISUPERCHARGED on Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- 2000Silverbullet
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Re: Buzzing sound
Actually I drive the average 15,000 miles/year, just not all with the '00. You must have missed that thread.That and you drive like 25 miles a year!

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Re: Buzzing sound
Yea, he drives 15,000 miles a year at 25 MPH! At that speed, if you can't avoid hitting a curb you shouldn't be driving.2000Silverbullet wrote:Actually I drive the average 15,000 miles/year, just not all with the '00. You must have missed that thread.That and you drive like 25 miles a year!
Dan McCann
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- 2000Silverbullet
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Re: Buzzing sound
Huh? Now that is an insult!Yea, he drives 15,000 miles a year at 25 MPH! At that speed, if you can't avoid hitting a curb you shouldn't be driving

2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)

