Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
The girlfriend just got a 93 Bonneville SE (yay) for $400 (sweet) that has a problem with the sway bar not being connected to the wheels. Normally, I'd just get new hardware and bolt it back on, but there is this odd...piece that hangs that my car doesn't have and I don't know what it is. It looks like it's supposed to be part of the sway bar but broke. The top image shows the passenger side and the bottom image shows the driver side.
That wierd metal part that is bolted with the sway bar that is hanging down off the sway bar. Looks like it broke off the sway bar...
Is it broke, can I weld it, do I need a new sway bar?
Boost addict
The Fleet: '93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread '97 Camaro - Top swap '05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD '92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD '99 Montana - top swap 3800 '04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax
I could...but it's cold out and i don't like working on cars outside in the cold unless absolutely neccessary. She isn't driving the car now (too unstable) so until it gets warmer out...but if I must then yeah, I can pull it and get some more photos.
Boost addict
The Fleet: '93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread '97 Camaro - Top swap '05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD '92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD '99 Montana - top swap 3800 '04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax
What are the rpo's for the different compatable sway bars? I'll be putting the biggest one I can find on it from the junkyard, and there is no guarentee this same sway bar can be found anyway.
edit: how the **** did the sway bar break like that on both sides
do I need any special tools to swap the sway bar?
Last edited by MattStrike on Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:14 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Boost addict
The Fleet: '93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread '97 Camaro - Top swap '05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD '92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD '99 Montana - top swap 3800 '04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax
That's part of the end of the stabilizer bar that has broken off. The stabilizer bar will need to be replaced, along with the stabilizer links. The arrow in the following picture shows how that part normally looks. You can see the seam where two pieces come together.
[The extension jpg has been deactivated and can no longer be displayed.]
*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.
You can get the 32mm front swaybar from an SSEi or anything with the F41 or FE2 suspension. The FE1 had a 30mm bar I believe. Then Certain C-body caddys had a 34mm front swaybar that would work too but is hard to find.
I discourage upgrading the swaybar without also upgrading the springs to the higher spec. A handling imbalance can occur. The only 'partial' upgrade I'd suggest is upgrading only the rear swaybar to correct factory-induced understeer.
Swapping in an SSE/i (FE3 or F41) rear swap would be a partial upgrade. And Addco makes a rear bar for us.
Last edited by J Wikoff on Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers 2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
londonontman wrote:Good to know. Since I have an SSEi I guess I have the biggest bar already...lol. Thanks
There is the Addco rear bar. There isn't much experience with it, so I don't know how much better it is than the SSEi bar.
WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers 2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights
londonontman wrote:Good to know. Since I have an SSEi I guess I have the biggest bar already...lol. Thanks
There is the Addco rear bar. There isn't much experience with it, so I don't know how much better it is than the SSEi bar.
It doesnt just get rid of factory understeer it starts inducing oversteer. I wouldnt recommend it on an FE1 suspension at all. F41/FE2/FE3 Springs and front bar (32mm) with some poly endlinks I would say are the min. Theres other factors that can play into how much oversteer it will cause.
...so don't put the bigger sway bar in...and if I can't find the FE1 at the local junkyard then I have to pull the front springs to match the sway bar. If I have to do that though, wouldn't I have to get the struts as well? My experience is that the springs are easier to change if you leave them on the strut anyway.
I haven't looked yet, but the sway bar mounts aren't welded to the chassis?... I hope not.
Boost addict
The Fleet: '93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread '97 Camaro - Top swap '05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD '92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD '99 Montana - top swap 3800 '04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax
Don, if it's that rusty the mounting bolts are practically welded on. I'd get some major hardware lined up to change those, such as an impact gun to drop the subframe when the bolt heads snap off. Also a drill with lots of bits to drill those bolts out, and a tap to re-thread the holes. PB Blaster and a cheater pipe won't do much good here.
2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco - Current car
1999 Buick LeSabre Custom - Former car
Learn from the mistakes of others, that way when you mess up you can do so in new and interesting ways.