Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
I was driving to Michigan today when I heard a clunk in the driver side rear tire area. I pulled over and noticed the brake had to be pushed all the way to the floor for the car to slow down. I got out and checked under the car and around the brakes and didn't see anything wrong. I got back in the car and about 10 miles later it clunked again and this time the brakes felt normal and were very touchy just how they were before the first clunk. Well I figured since the brakes still work, I will just get to my future in-laws house and would take a look at the car. It made a loud clicking noise every now and then for a few minutes than it would stop. Well I got to the house and got the tire off and took the brake drum off. Well 3 pieces fell out, here are some pics
Joe
Rebuilt L36, Silverstar highs/lows and fogs, new brake lines, rotors, calipers, pads, ZZP Exhaust, Projector Headlights, Tinted Tails and Windows.
Mods to come- LED Tails, HID Kit, Top Swap (springtime)
Those are the return springs, and the self adjusting mechanism. They're easy to find parts at virtually any parts store. The easiest way to see how it all goes back together is to pull the drum off the other side, and compare things.
*Gone, but not forgotten* - Black 2000 SSEi, HIR Headlights, Angel Eyes fogs, 3rd brake light overlay, hi-flo cat, 180 degree thermostat, HS 1.9 rockers, LSx yellow springs, Intense FWI, PCM, shift kit, push rods, and 3.4 Pulley. ZZP Power Log.
It got to dark to pull the other side off to compare things so will have to do that in the morning. This will just affect the ABS correct?
Joe
Rebuilt L36, Silverstar highs/lows and fogs, new brake lines, rotors, calipers, pads, ZZP Exhaust, Projector Headlights, Tinted Tails and Windows.
Mods to come- LED Tails, HID Kit, Top Swap (springtime)
92BonnevilleSE wrote:It got to dark to pull the other side off to compare things so will have to do that in the morning. This will just affect the ABS correct?
These are parts of your rear service (regular) brakes. If you lose the hardware as you have, you may also lose (probably already have lost) the hydraulic portion of that brake, (rear wheel cylinder) leaving you with only front brakes that will operate with the pedal close to the floor due to loss of fluid and pressure. Do not drive the car without repairing this damage! You may have to replace the wheel cylinder or at least install a rebuild kit for the cylinder on that wheel.
As Archon suggested, use the opposite side as an assembly guide then replace everything that is damaged including the shoes if they have become coated with brake fluid. If the drums are usable, clean them and all the parts with brake parts cleaner. Buy parts for both sides. When you have the broken side done, replace the parts on the other side. Then, you will probably need to bleed the brakes.
Thats my rule of thum too, NEVER DRIVER A CAR WITH BAD BREAKS ,And always repair both sides together.This ensures they work evenly and prevents brake pull.
I got up first thing this morning and had to WALK to Auto Zone..lol. No big deal was only about a mile from my in-laws house so it was good exercise. Anyways, got the parts to do both back brakes and got them on and now it works great. What could of caused this to happen? Just the pieces getting to old and finally had enough?
Joe
Rebuilt L36, Silverstar highs/lows and fogs, new brake lines, rotors, calipers, pads, ZZP Exhaust, Projector Headlights, Tinted Tails and Windows.
Mods to come- LED Tails, HID Kit, Top Swap (springtime)
More than likely. Did you just replace the cylinders and springs, or did you replace pads and shoes as well?
Bye Bye: RIP sandrock
Sirius wrote:Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.
I did the cylinders and springs as well. Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. First time I've ever changed the cylinders myself.
Joe
Rebuilt L36, Silverstar highs/lows and fogs, new brake lines, rotors, calipers, pads, ZZP Exhaust, Projector Headlights, Tinted Tails and Windows.
Mods to come- LED Tails, HID Kit, Top Swap (springtime)
It happened to me too. Only I just heard a chattering in the back. I took it to brake masters for an oil change and they found no issues, and cleared the car for a 200 mile round trip. I get to the city I am going to, the chatter has turned to a grind, and the brake pedal is getting worse and worse. I pulled back wheels off in the autozone parking lot only to find that the adjuster dropped and was stuck by the bottom portion of the shoes. I wasn't exactly happy about that. Just make sure that it is replaced with a new one <looks like it had to have been as one side is broken off, maybe accounting for the failure> as those things wear out too.
~Randall~
1993 Buick Park Avenue - 197k - Some odds and ends done - Simply won't die
1994 Buick Regal - 78k - Bone stock - Always ready for a good kicking
1990 Oldsmobile 88 - Gone to a better place
Yeah I got all brand new parts for both back brakes. I knew something was messed up as soon as I heard that clunk. It was nasty sounding. I was not happy when I seen those 3 pieces just fall to the ground when I got the brake drum off. Prolly the most I swore in quite a while At least it wasn't nothing to bad and that the brakes got me at least to my destination without any problems.
Joe
Rebuilt L36, Silverstar highs/lows and fogs, new brake lines, rotors, calipers, pads, ZZP Exhaust, Projector Headlights, Tinted Tails and Windows.
Mods to come- LED Tails, HID Kit, Top Swap (springtime)