Power Windows Acting Crazy!

[RegencyRoyale]

My windows are crazy! Ages ago someone told me about an electronic panel under the drivers master switch that does something to regualte the current of the power windows. At that time I was having trouble with my passenger front window and today I had sorta the same thing happen but with the rear driver window. All the windows work, but sometimes only from the driver switch or only from its individual switch but not both. Then other times they don't work from any switch at all until I restart the car and they work correctly again.

Anyone have any information on this electronic panel thing (if anyone knows what I'm taking about)? What's it called, how it works etc..? How much one is to buy if need be?

Thanks

[Mechanical Mike]

The only 'electrical panel' I can think of is the express down module & that won't cause any problems except for the driver's window.

When the driver's door switch is used to open or close the windows on any of the other doors 12 volts goes from the driver's switch to the switch on the other door & then to the window motor. The voltage then leaves the motor & goes through the switch on that door & back the driver's door switch to get to ground & complete the circuit. It's kind of confusing but you just need to realize that when a window doesn't work it could be the window switch on that door or the driver's door.

[RegencyRoyale]

If I remember correctly what I was told about this thing was sometimes when it gets old it doesn't release the circut after you let up on one of the driver side switches. Then if you try to use one of the other switches for the same window the circut isn't completed. Maybe the two switches cancel eachother out or something. Restarting seems to correct this. I don't know if that's right or not. Whomever it was told me about this might just have meant the circuitry of the master window switch...

Anyway, guess that's it...

[TampaSSeI95]

i woulkd try cleanin the grounds under the carpet on each side by the kick panel. on the old site they had a link to it to show you how to do it. i was havin similar problems with my rear driver window sometimes would work sometimes wouldnt at all. sometimes work from the switch on the bqack door and i cleaned the grounds and havent had any problems since

[RegencyRoyale]

Sounds like it would be worth a shot to try that. Anyone know the process or know the link that was posted on the old site as Tampa mentioned?

Thanks

[TampaSSeI95]

i know that its a little black rectangle with a blue piece in it you take it out and take this clip out and sand it and clean the prongs from the wires. theres one on each side

[Mechanical Mike]

Here's a few pics showing the location of the ground bus & the metal bar that can corrode. There's a bus on the driver's & passenger side. Let us know what you find.

[RegencyRoyale]

If I pull it and I see it's rusted or whatever, should I try sand it off or...? At this moment the windows are all working ok so should I still pull it or wait till it happenes again? I don't want to make something worse. On a different note, does that thing only control the rear windows or the front windows too?

Cheers!

[Mechanical Mike]

The fuel pump (on the Bonnevilles & maybe your car) also grounds on the driver's side ground bus. It's good preventative maintenace to check it & could end up saving you a towing bill. If any corrosion is found clean both the male & female terminals with sandpaper & apply dielectric grease before putting back together.

[TampaSSeI95]

see thats the only thing this site needs ALL of the tech infothat we had on BC. life would be so much easier

[renchjeep]

OK, so the fuel pump grounds at the left side ground bus? If my ground bus is corroded, maybe wasted, can I just connect all the wires together and create my own ground by screwing all the wire to the chassis with tek screws and dielectric grease?

Looking to solve an intermittent driveability problem here. Comes and goes when it wants, no CEL, no codes. (My "cheaper" $300.00 scan tool says "no communication" at times. Maybe a crappy scanner?) Feels like a rev limiter cutting off fuel at lower rpm's, especially accelerating from a stop and turning left (mostly uphill), maybe 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Fuel pump and filter NEW, filter 2 weeks old, new Delphi pump 5 days old. Feels like fuel starvation, whomp, whomp, whomp, then goes mostly OK, sometimes "bogs" a bit. Sometimes momentarily cuts out when cruising, especially uphill. Maybe MAF?

Any ideas are much appreciated!

Maybe fuel tank baffle problem? All looked ok when I took the tank out to replace the fuel pump a few days ago. Didn't investigate the baffle problem too much. Just read about that one tonight.

94 SE, non-supercharged. California car all it's life, 199k miles. Rebuilt trans a year ago, new mounts then, new Denso O2 sensor 5 days ago, same time as the Delphi fuel pump. Rice tube, cone K&N, custom made cold air box behind left headlight. High-flow Magnaflow cat 2 years ago, good used Camaro crossflow 2-chamber Flowmaster with dual 3" dumps installed at the same time.

?????

[Pepcfreak]

Im looking for this in my 91 Bonneville and i dont see it. All i see is a nicely tapped up set of wires, but not that ground bus anywhere.

Im having an issue where my power window wants to work but only goes up in small increments. Have to let it sit for a bit before i can get it up another few mm unless i pull up on it.

[myfirstbonnie]

Wrong gen. The 87-91 does not have those ground buses.

You can start your own thread in the 87-91 area and we can help you with your issues.

Most likely you have a bad window motor.