ok turned out to be the blower motor controller was bad - also the smell from the mouse nest in the blower housing..lol

need some ideas guys - car has been sitting for 5 yrs on a ranch - has climate control outside temp stuck on 51f but can adjust inside temp. no blower fan, swaped relays no luck - all fuses ok - blower motor ok. get no power to blower motor. is there a re-learn for the climate control?

I sounds like possible intermittent wiring issue. I would take a look at the pump conector and wiring again could be a broken internal wire near the conector. ohm out the wire while flexing it. when the pumps failed and you had them out did you try to jumper them to see if they were dead? OEM pump ...

I agree with motopsyco - change the FF and see what line is leaking , probably anound the FF connections .right under the passenger door is the fuel filter

might have someone bang on the starter while you try cranking that might tell you if it is the starter

also would clean battery terminals and check the cables for corrosion peel them back some. could be low voltage from bad battery wires or bad ground. you have to get 12 volts through the system to ...

basic but don't see a mention of a fuel filter with the new pump or fuel pressure reading

mine did the same thing - after a strong dose of Seafoam seemed to settle down. don't think it is a long time cure but seemed to help mine for now.

should hold pressure for at least about 30 min how long was it settingbefore ? yes- only way to know what is going on for sure is with a fuel pressure gauge test before dropping the tank to change a fuel pump and spend lots of $$

any codes? injectors ok? EGR, MAF cleaned? how many miles on the 95

Refrigerant dose not go stale, evacuating the system mostly done to remove and “save” the refrigerant for proper disposal when repairing or replacing components. Here is a site with some good info and charts check out

"Automotive A/C Information Forum"
Tips and FAQ - Evac and Charging

http://www ...

"hesitation when under light load,stalling at stop lights and signs" does it run ok cold after setting overnight but long crank time warm?


might check the FPR

need to get the FPR installed and working 1st

Bad FPR is like a fuel flood condition too much fuel at times – mine gave me secondary codes that went away. I would change the FPR and see how it runs - if better then disconnect the battery to clear codes and see if any return.

looks like a retainer you probably need to change it out - something’s you need to figure out - go to the parts store and get cheap snap ring pliers with Multi head inserts - you need small don't know size off hand what ever fits the holes on the snap ring.

I'm just a old school guy with past ...

can't be much fuel would evaporate quick - if clean put in back in the car or a mower.
sounds like your fuel pressure is ok will jump about 10psi with change in vacuum .still thinking FPR because you said you smelled fuel in the vacuum line. Could have a diaphragm leak and still maintain pressure ...

mine started hanging up a couple years ago pulled it up cleaned with fine steel wool and lubed it a little still works

whats done is done next time use the proper cleaner it is "CRC" save the carb cleaner for a carb - gald it is running better

Link was about changing a heater core - was just wondering if you could get the cover off the heater could you reach the actuator - not sure if it would help.

should work out ok - good idea to have FP teser

maybe you could remove the cover on the heater ?

http://www.gmforum.com/showthread.php?t ... +pull+dash

what comes in the fpr box should be all you need - use the new snap ring . wire brush around the old snap ring before you take it out so no crud falls in the fuel rail. cycle the ignition it will pressure up – check for leaks
hope it cures the problem :beerchug:

Yes that is where you test the fuel ...