rustyroger wrote:The thermostat opening early or stuck open could also give you your poor heater symptoms. How cold is Michigan right now?.

Roger.

Arctic circle cold.

CLR soak works ok for the core, but what works best is to cycle it with a pond pump. I hooked up the Expy's cores to a pond pump in a bucket and let it cycle overnight. It was a world of difference vs just letting it sit. If you suspect a restriction in the core, that is about the best you can do ...

Can you electroplate the magnesium in copper or nickel first and then have them powder coated?

You do want to put a liberal amount of dielectric grease under the ICM. It helps maintain proper grounding and heat dissipation. And obviously, you want to clean the contact area before applying the grease.

You can try car-part.com for the bracket to swap over if you are having trouble finding one ...

Out of what you linked, I would lean toward the new AC Delco if you don't have the heated windshield or the new pure energy for if you do. For beater cars (not saying yours necessarily is), I usually just go for the $20 junkyard options for starters and alternators. If you plan to keep the car, I ...

If you have already replaced the sensor and relay, there's not much left to do besides the wiring and the fans themselves. Which if they were dead, a bypass would do no good.

Have you already tried to run 12V directly to the fan(s)?

From the sound of it, something locked up inside the supercharger which sheared the key when the belt tried to spin. If the shaft does not spin, you need a supercharger replacement or rebuild not just a pulley. If you are located in the States, I would look for a used supercharger from Craigslist ...

You bench bleed the MS before installing. You will then have to bleed everything once the MS is installed.

Yeah, I appreciate the effort on the software side, but it would be nice to see RA work on the logistical stocking side before Amazon eats them up.

I was told by a tuner that the EGR closes at WOT anyway. So performance wise under full load, there is no difference if he is correct.

Something I would consider a benefit is that the intake side of things will have less soot if the EGR is bypassed, but that's about it. People make a bigger deal ...

My 650 ft/lb harbor freight impact usually breaks them loose. You need those extra 50 lbs, Andrew! (j/k). If it doesn't, I usually go with the flywheel stop + cheater bar method like Andrew suggested.



I have not tried this personally, but I have seen a number of guys recommend wedging the ...

I don't have a M90 body handy w/o a snout attached, but I matched up a M62 snout to a M90 snout. I would say that you would need an adapter plate to make it work.

With the top aligned, there is a significant gap at the bottom.

Plotting something for the caddy?

I don't see any of these comments as roasting. I see it as valuable customer feedback. You have to admit that the randomness of what is stocked and where usually make little to no sense. Like steering components for the same vehicle of the same brand being stocked in different places. Moog tie rod ...

That looks fairly easy to work on. Definitely easier than this stupid Ford intake I did this weekend. Spent about 5-6 hours on mine.

That's weird on the plugs. How can a plug 4 heat ranges colder be listed as a replacement? You probably just cleared half of your codes this weekend.

Count me in.

Prefer a weekend that wasn't with 3800 meet personally. Just a poor choice to choose a holiday weekend on their part imo.

ABS juice is a given when printing ABS. Some claim to use just hairspray for bed adhesion, but I have never had much luck with it. I don't think I've ever had a print lift when using juice.

I had a roll of ABS that measured as high as 1.93 and it fed fine. I've always thought most printers were ...

Why not fram? I just changed the oil and filter, has a fram filter. Ive always used them, and never had any issues. Just wondering, like to get others points of view. Plus if i can learn something in the process, thats always good.
I used to use them too for years and never had any issues. But a ...

It's a good idea to hit the aluminum the ICM mounts to with a wire brush, then put a very liberal amount of di-electric grease on the heat sink/ground. As well as a normal amount on the coil towers, and connector as mentioned above.

It is against ASE standards to use compression fittings on brake lines. I have heard of many people still using them without failure, but it is technically not the correct solution. The recommended solution is to put on a flare nut, and flare each end, then join with a union.