My radiator blew on the way home from work tonight, after getting a ride to the local oreilleys telling them year, make model "vin-1" etc. told them I needed a radiator...he said which one we show two and spun the monitor around for me to look at...they were both Murry Brand Radiators (lifetime ...

Oh I hear you when it comes to the GXP's they were an extremely limited run vs the other models and while they look a lot like an SSEI on steroids, they are more like a cadillac with a pontiac facelift because so little of the parts that fit an 00-05 se - ssei fit on a GXP. they are Beautiful cars ...

Thank-you very much Andrew, I really appreciate that.

I am going to verify power's and grounds and continuity on the control wire from the IPM to the blower module as well as other functions of the IPM, to make sure nothing else (haven't noticed any) is DOA functionality wise.

Actually I did note ...

Does anyone have the GM "Description of Operation" for the HVAC system from GMSI? it might give me a clue as to what step in the operation I am missing (long shot I know).

Does it always act exactly this same way? Have you noticed erratic blower behavior over bumps?

Yup exact same way every time, no erratic blower behavior, all speeds work (once you turn it back on) manually or in auto mode...my first thought after ruling out the head unit was the blower control ...

Yay, so it's just me...well if/when I figure it out, I'll report back (and probably change the title to match the issue).

So if I get into my car and start it with A/C set to auto and XX temp the blower motor will not come on, the rest of the unit acts like it's running, however if i then shut the hvac head unit off and back on...the entire system works perfectly fine (blower runs, cycles through all the speeds if set ...

It's pretty well covered in this thread (or at least linked to from this one). IIRC wet door seal gaskets is usually not the door seals themselves but the moisture barrier behind the door panels coming loose and allowing rain water to leak in behind the door panel and into the car. (if that makes ...

sometimes you can have an alternator rebuilt with higher output internals. If that is what your wanting I would find a local alternator rebuild shop and inquire from them if they can do that for you.

You might just want to keep an eye on your numbers is all...there are people that have converted to run E85 in their cars...not a cost savings but performance/cost savings compared to race gas is there (well was there, who knows now days with gas prices like they are)...here is a thread about E85 ...

absolutely agree NOS, the mods I have make it easier to merge on highway/freeways, pass cars on 2-lane roads etc. and does make it a little more "spirited/fun" to drive. I actually have an inter-cooler I could put on, but haven't seen the need...if I do it wouldn't be to run small pulley and crazy ...

I second NOS4BLOOD70, but if you are dead set on the 3800 platform, your better off starting with a Grand Prix GTP (98-02) 2-door, they are lighter, supercharged, can probably be had cheap (knowing of course you will have to put a lot into it to make it fast and "reliable"), and in my opinion really ...

Since the Driver's door is the most used door, and the issues are intermittent, I would look at checking the wiring harness that goes between the door and and body. it gets bent/articulated each time the door is open...these cars are getting older and it's a possibility you have some wires rubbed ...

Come on people learn to read, He has replaced: Spark Plugs, Wires, Coils, ICM....so telling him to re-replace these things without proof they are bad out of the box is a waste of his time and money.

Sir, My best guess from the symptoms and given what you have already changed is either a faulty ...

Sorry been out of town on business, Glad you finally got it fixed....so most likely it was either the pass-key module or the ICM (or both)...Congrats again on getting it sorted out.

Keep us posted.

This guy is a Guru when it comes to electrical troubleshooting, problem solving. I have probably watched everyone of his videos at least once if not more. he does use a oscilloscope (snapon-verus, picoauto, etc.) a lot, but for parasitic drain tests, they should all be able to be done with a Digital ...

but did you still have the parasitic draw with that fuse pulled?

Any luck figuring it out?

If the dash has to come out like I think it does probably $500-$1000+ and I'd say probably closer to the high end of that for a shop to do it. I've done one on a Silverado for a family member and I still charged him $400 and it took the entire weekend to remove the dash replace the core, reinstall ...