Hj2392 wrote:Would you want to check shipping to 53404??? I need the lines from tank to filter and possibly could just take all of it off your hands if shipping is decent. I have a 99

Shipping is $17.90 to any U.S. address. It's all or none-it's already packed. PM me if you're interested.

Will the pumps fit my 96?

Hard to decide if one is bad its a crap shoot.

Yes, they will. I've included a wiring harness clip for the fuel pump, so you can touch the wires to a 12v battery terminal and determine if it starts. The "bad" one was from my '99. I replaced it at 60K. It didn't fail and ...

Bump.

C'mon, somebody take this stuff. I hate to toss good parts.

If the screws are original, you'll need a "security torx" socket to remove the MAF sensor, which is an easy job-2 screws. Take one of the screws down to the hardware store and get two same size and length same thread screws, but with a phillips head, to save rooting around in your toolbox for half ...

If you decide you need the controls, I have a box of interior stuff all boxed up to send for the shipping, which is $17.90. Got a lot of other interior stuff in there, but you don't get to choose-take it all or none. :P

P.S. they need to be touched up with gray spray paint. Let me know. Contents ...

Last box of parts to go out for the shipping, $17.90 anywhere in the lower 48:

Functioning power antenna, '97

Complete new turn signal switch for a '99 minus one spring (when I took off the wheel only the spring was broken, so I swapped that out and tossed the switch in my toolbox)

Dimmer switch ...

Guys (and gals) I'm out of the Bonneville business. I just bought a new Ford Fusion, no more Bvilles, so I'm cleaning out my garage and tool box of lots and lots of spare parts.

If you're going a fuel pump swap soon, please take the following stuff off my hands for only shipping from 95020.

OK ...

OK, found the leak. Ran her up on the ramps last night at dusk and hit the bottom of the compressor with the UV light. The leak was at the place on the rear of the compressor where the high and low side plug in. Looking at an exploded view online, it appears there's a metal gasket and several o ...

It doesn't seem to be dumping the water, but I assume it's just all evaporating through one of those locations.

My question:
Is this the head gasket blown, or could this be a different issue? Is it something relatively simple to fix, and how much would it be to fix it. I'm mostly trying to find ...

If it's holding vacuum overnight, my vote is on a bad seal on the compressor shaft. Only leaking when in use. But it should sling the dye out the back side of the pulley, or drip down out the bottom side of the pulley, either way visible.

Thanks for the advice. It's not visible from the top. I'll ...

When vacuum was pulled, did the machine continuously pull vacuum, or pull and hold? If it held vacuum overnight, then it should be good. One guess would be leaking valves, as those will allow the system to hold vacuum while connected but will leak once disconnected.

I used a little Harbor Freight ...

Go to an A/C shop and have them pull a vacuum on the system. That's how they check for leaks.

I pulled a vacuum on it Saturday after a buddy discharged the system for me. It held at about 28" overnight. I then recharged it Sunday and all was well until today. System pressure is hovering around 20 ...

It was my understanding that this was really easy to do. . . with the engine out. With the engine still in the car, I believe it is next to impossible, and requires cutting of the airbox.

Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.

Yeah, just went out and looked under the hood when he posted that ...

How would I access to A/C evaporator, and does anyone know how hard it is to swap out, if necessary? I'm assuming the glovebox comes out, which I'm going to do to look for a leak (put dye in the system) but if I need to replace it, how big a job am I in for?

Edited to add: Climate control car.

Did that, great suggestion. On a second review it looks like the Blade slides out from the Bus to clean it or access the connection.

Yes, it does. Wire brush the contacts and use dielectric grease on both the blades and sockets. Slide them in and out a few times to ensure a solid ground. Should ...

1oldman wrote:

Bob Dillon wrote:Grease the cable. It's probably rusting internally and not pulling fully.

Since he's already raised the bumpers, I second that. I'd say lubricate the living day-lights out of everything, latch, hinges, cable, and anything else to do with it. - BC

Old Man power!

Grease the cable. It's probably rusting internally and not pulling fully.

Here's a clear image of what the Ground Bus connection looks like untaped and out of the conduit. I'm going to add more helpful (I hope) images shortly but the wife is calling with her list now (augh).
Thanks for the help with this and reminder to check the ground bus.

We all love a happy ending ...

Nobody has answered the "will it need to be flashed?" question yet. It would be interesting to know. thanks.

Me too. I have no idea. :???: It seems unlikely.

The ground buses are simply a blade and socket arrangement, like a light plug. Just unwind the tape, separate them, and if there's ...

1200 here. Returns to just under 1000 at 2 minutes.