PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Evening to all
Could anyone answer this question?
When i give the car fairly heavy throttle, from a light, it seems to be sluggish until i lightly let off the throttle, then it picks up like an ape on fire,, lol.
Does anyone have this symptom, and can point me to fix this, or am i alone?

Thanks to all in this great club!

Have a great one!!

how long since your last tune up? (plugs, wires, fuel filter etc)

need more info, when was the last tune up, engine light (on or off) ect..

sorry asked similar question as gonzo

trf_ssei wrote:need more info, when was the last tune up, engine light (on or off) ect..

trf_ssei wrote:sorry asked similar question as gonzo

trf_ssei wrote:need more info, when was the last tune up, engine light (on or off) ect..

no problem, i'm just a tad bit faster... anywho now we wait for the answer

Massive KR is what this person is experiencing. Needs a tuneup and better gas.

Also, has the PCM been replaced recently? Could need a CASE learn.

i was thinkin maybe a TPS thats why i asked about the engine light.. i didn't even think about KR..

I bought the car last Feb, w/ 169000, I now have 176000, and have done the following,
uim/lim gaskets
head gaskets
major tune up,, w/
autolite xp606 plugs,, OE premium wires, (with loom around each wire), fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and oil every 3000 miles, and seafoam every third tank.
alt. sensing wire (recent,, did it before and after)
maf cleaning

I've tried running with the fpr not on vacume to see if that might help,,, no change there.

I'm stumped,, any ideas?

Thanks

Oh I'm sorry,,, there is no CEL,,, and no codes,, other than P1565, for the cruise control servo position.

besides this little problem it runs great!!

averaging 18mpg city and 28mpg highway

Thanks

Could be a clogged catalytic converter. Is that original, do you know? Also do you know the
History of the O2 sensor?

Oh, it's a 95. Do the 95's have the OBDII or they still OBD 1.5?

Try changing the transmission filter and fluid. Maybe a DIY shift kit.

I'm still betting it's KR.

This happens every time you're giving it heavy throttle from a stop, or only intermittently?

I was wondering about the cat. i'm sure it is original.
The o2 was changed about a month ago.

Yes, it does have the obd 1.5 but has the plug for obd2

Tomorrow i'll drive home from work with the scanner hooked up to see if there is any kr. it should read 0 correct?

I also have ohmed the coils,,,

primary,, #1,4= 0.8,,, #2,5= 1.2,,, #3,6= 0.82
secondary,, #1,4= 5.6,,, #2,5= 4.8,,, #3,6= 5.8

cant tell you if they are original, cant read the numbers on 2,5 but the numbers for 1,4,,3,6 are there.

What do ya think?

Thanks

I think you should replace the 2/5 coil. Those readings are not within spec.

harofreak00 wrote:I think you should replace the 2/5 coil. Those readings are not within spec.

Agreed. Also my dad had an issue like this in his Taurus SHO, but it ended up being a bad MAF sensor. It was setting a code stating that the MAF and TPS readings were inconsistent. I understand you cleaned the MAF, and the Taurus SHO is a completely differant animal, so do what you will. The other suggestions are sound also.

fleettech2252004 wrote:I was wondering about the cat. i'm sure it is original.
The o2 was changed about a month ago.

Yes, it does have the obd 1.5 but has the plug for obd2

Tomorrow i'll drive home from work with the scanner hooked up to see if there is any kr. it should read 0 correct?

I also have ohmed the coils,,,

primary,, #1,4= 0.8,,, #2,5= 1.2,,, #3,6= 0.82
secondary,, #1,4= 5.6,,, #2,5= 4.8,,, #3,6= 5.8

Usually a bad coil will cause a miss, especially noticeable at idle. But, an easy way to "dynamically" test your coils is, with engine running, pull the first wire off and watch to see that the spark jumps from the electrode back to the body of the coil. To avoid being "tingled," shut it off and put the wire back on. Start it back up and repeat for each of the wires.
A good, strong coil should arc back to its body from the electrode. If it doesn't arc back, you have a problem with that coil. A bad coil may arc off one electrode and not the other.

My experience with a plugged cat is that it runs like you pinched the exhaust pipe flat. It will definitely lose power at highway speeds when you need a lot of flow. If it is badly plugged it will kill your mpg too.

It sounds like a MAF, especially if it has a dead spot when you stab the throttle hard. I am assuming you eyeballed it when you cleaned it to be sure both of the little wire like items were in place (?). It's best to use the cleaner that is especially made for cleaning MAFs. Bad news is that MAFs are little pricey for "experimenting" with.

?You can check the maf in this case by unplugging it and see how the car behaves. That is how we nailed it in the SHO.

will it even run with the MAF unpluged or does it just become reliant on the TPS

It typically relies on the tps when the MAF is unplugged, and sets the SES light. Usually guesses what it thinks it should be and goes from that. If the MAF is fine, it will run worse, if it is having problems, usually it will run better, but not great.

It uses a VE tune w/o the MAF. Basically VE is that the computer knows what the engine needs for air and fuel at X RPM, and uses what it's compiled from the MAF to make a guess. It will run w/o a MAF sensor, but not at it's peak.

Hey guys,,
I replaced the 2,5 coil and it does seem to be better.
However, stabbing the throttle to the floor from a dead stop, it still seems sluggish until about 30mph or so.
Hooked autoXray 6000 scanner to it while i drove around, maf,tps,iat, iac and o2 looks good, however, i did have kr of 1 on most of the runs, and i did have kr of 2 on one of the runs.
Also, i noticed that my spark advance was 14.7 at idle and when i took off, it read like 8 or so and then came back up to 12 aqnd slowly settled around 10.6 or so.
Does it possibly sound like stretched timing chain?

Thanks for all the help!!!