PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Just wanted to get some opinions on a split drivers CV boot that I have recently discovered on the 96. The bonneville is the first front wheel drive car i have ever owned (and I have had this car for over 8 years) so I dont know much about CV's. The split is small and after observing it through several rotations of the joint, seems to open at the top and bottom, as evidenced by the two piles of grey (moly?) grease i have behind the wheel. I do not know how long the boot has been split but there is no clicking or popping in the CV at high turn angles ( i did some slow turning in a parking lot) so i assume that there is no damage to the CV yet. I am avoiding driving the car as much as possible until i get a fix of some kind done. So the question is

Is it worth it to just do the "band-aid" split boot repair and not tear apart the front end to do the "real" replacement

or

Just go ahead and eat the money for a new CV shaft and the alignment i will need after i split the ball joint?

also, is this a might as well moment? IE i did the drivers side that was split, might as well tear apart the passenger side too. I assume that the CV's are original to the vehicle and I am pushing 190K on the Odometer.

I look at it this way:

If you are having a shop do the work, just replace the shaft. It has to come out anyway to do the boot. It will be less labor to R&R a shaft. Plus, you get a new shaft with a warranty and are less likely to have problems later.

If you are doing the work yourself and don't want to spend a lot of money, buy a new boot and install it yourself. But, this is more labor intesive and requires special snap ring pliers and a special tool to crimp the clamps on the boots.

The general rule of thumb is that over a week of driving will kill the CV joint. The damage is likely already happening. Unless you know when it tore, and act immediately, a replacement boot isn't a good option.

A new shaft can be had rebuilt or new for well under 100 bucks.

Willwren: is the new part you are talking about the whole thing from the tranny to the rotor? for just 100 bucks..that less than i thought it would be. I am correct about having to split the ball joint with a pickle fork right? thats the only way the thing comes out and that means alignment. Not afraid of the work but dont want to do more than i have to...

You won't need to do an alignment if you do it right.

First, trace the outline of the knuckle onto the strut to keep your camber in check. You can then remove the knuckle from the strut. Yes, you will need to bust the knuckle from the lower ball joint using a tuning fork (that's what I call them), and you will more than likely bust the boot to the joint. Energy Suspension makes replacement boots that you can use to cure that, but if your ball joint is bad, there is no point to doing that...you will have to take a few extra steps to replace that.

You will also need a small prybar and a drip pan to catch all the trans fluid that will come out.

Wanna set up a mini meet for the first of the year? Sounds like it could be fun..LOL

The ball joints are more than likely shot..they are original as well (as far as I know). Maybe you and don could give me a hand and we can take some shots with a dig. cam and do a write up for the forum...

Let me know when in Jan you can do this. Keep in mind my days off are Thursday, Friday, and part of Saturday (I go to sleep early).

ok. i think i will go ahead and put a "quick-boot" on it for now just to keep the dirt and water out of it...pretty sure that it will be ok until january. Might get the springs done too while we are in that far..in for a dime in for a dollar eh?

lunchboxx wrote:..in for a dime in for a dollar eh?

Sounds vaguely familiar.


I can't begin to tell you how much was tied up into this one. If I knew the total money wasted, I'd cry.

I know this thread is a few weeks old, but I had an 86 Cutlass Ciera with a busted drivers side CV joint boot. I drive that thing around for YEARS with it like that. No squeaks, no rattles, no clunks. The grease splattered all over the fender lining. The car was purchased for $150 in 2003, drove it until late 2006 with hardly any problems but decided to scrap it because i felt the time was near. Don't take my advice though, its probably not good to do what I did now that I look back. I did not want to invest ANY money into that car, and that was why it remained that way until it went to the scrap yard.