PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Hello all
Stuff I did to this car in the past 2 weeks:

Replaced lower intake manifold gasket
Replaced supercharger gasket
Sent fuel injectors off to be refurbished
Replaced both coolant sensors
Replaced cam and crank sensors
Replaced Harmonic Balancer
Replaced oil pressure swith/one for ecm
Replaced ECM
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced fuel regulator
Replaced fuel lines
Replaced all vacuum lines
Replaced vapor return line from charcoal canister to fuel tank
Replaced Oxygen sensor
Replaced Spark Plugs and wires
Car was running fine before all repairs made. It did have a intermitted problem of shutting off the fuel pump once in a blue moon. Was hoping these fixes would rectify the problem. Car is approaching 200k miles. Soon after all repairs made, I started the car, ran it through all RPMs, sounded great! Had the car running for about 30 mins or so, on the jack stands, so I could get the engine to temp, to add antifreeze. All was good that night, shut the engine down. The next evening, got the car off the jacks, backed out of the garage and into the driveway (car is fine at this point). Went into the house to push the garage door button, jumped into the car and then the car had absolutely no power. Had it floored, and nothing,,maybe 3 mph. Floored the car in Reverse, and Drive,,,same effect. No power,,and RPMs maxed at maybe 1000. Wasn't paying that much attention. It was even bogged down when in neutral or park "WOT" no change in RPMs. Creeped the car back into the garage, hooked up my fuel pressure gauge,,holding at 35psi. I floored the car in park, while looking under the hood, I saw the exhaust manifold, bright orange red. I only had the car on for max 15 minutes, most at idle. After goosing that throttle one more time, the engine quit. Next morning I rehooked up the fuel gauge, turn the ign to on, not start. The fuel pump stayed on for 7 mins without turning off. Usually it's on for 1 or 2 secs then off. I turned the key off, then back on again,,and it worked fine. On for 2 sec's then off. The car turns over, but nothing but stumbling,,maybe even a back fire. Each cranks get's less and less results,,now nothing other than the sound of the starter. Need help, out of idea's other than holy water!!

That's alot of work you did. When you said you replaced the ECM, did you mean the computer (PCM) or the ignition control module (ICM)? You should get it scanned for what codes popped up to help determine what could be the problem. Mine had similar symptoms and I replaced a bunch of parts, some needed, some probably not but the root cause was the computer (PCM). My ICM tested out bad too.

Sorry, I should of specified that, I replaced the PCM (main computer) I can't even get the car to run anymore to check spark from the coilpacks/ICM (which by the way, all coils and ICM were replaced 2 months ago).
When I had the supercharger out of the car, I decarbonized the inside with degreaser. Sounded like a good idea at the time. When I first started the car with all new components, had alittle racket from the SC. After running for 30 mins, the noise went away. Either the grease in the bearings repacked themselves, or the coupling broke. I took the belt off and spun the SC,,feels the same as before. I'm pretty sure the car will atleast start even with a broken SC right?

I just purchased the wrong cable for the EFI live program. Should be receving the OBD 2 cable in a couple days from Moates.net Will do the scan soon though. I guess till then we can speculate right? lol

The car will attempt to start but I'm not sure how the SC would affect it like that. You didn't mention anything about changing the fuel filter though. I'm speculating an ignition problem. I ran my car like that and it started to smoke a little and underneath the cat was red hot! I'd take the ICM out and take it to a parts store and test it.

Your glowing exhaust manifold and low rpm's at wide open are clear indicators of a plugged catalytic converter.

Go kick the cat side to side and up and down. Come back and tell us what you hear.

I was going to say plugged cat or badly worn timing chain.

I'm liking that angle! Makes alot of sense, I lost some coolant down the cylinders when I replaced that lower gasket. Car had alot of white smoke, burning off. That moisture could indeed plug the cat? Anyways,, Jacked the car, shook the piss out of this catalyic converter. Didn't hear a sound, other than the heat shields rattling near by. With one hand on the heatshields, to dappen the racket,,and the other on the cat,,,I really couldn't hear any noise. Up to down motion, or side to side. I took it a step further and removed the flange gasket/bolt spring thing, and position the pipe out of the way. Now it should have no back pressure. Attempted to start the car,,same thing,,,turns but nothing.. I'm assuming the plugs are fouled rich of gas. Definately the smell I got after removing that donut flange thing.

One other thing that I have been thinking about today at work,,I didn't use any lock tight on the harmonic balancer bolt. I know it's keyed, but could it of slipped?

Replaced the fuel filter, sorry I didn't list it. Timing chain is approx 2 years old. New bottom half of engine 2years old

Yes, a clogged cat can cause fouled plugs. No, I wouldn't expect a little coolant to do it. They go over time with age, and the failure is accellerated by running rich over time, or with an old O2 sensor (which usually runs you rich as they get tired). The coolant may have sealed it's fate. The cat is a POSSIBILITY. Without my hands on your car, I can't tell you for sure.

If you have spark and fuel and the car won't start, check your plugs and wires first, then if it still doesn't start, check compression. On at least the front three cylinders.

SOME clogged cats will rattle, but not all. Leave the downpipe disconnected as you figure out the rest of the problems. Some of your symptoms point to the cat. FYI, don't delete the cat. Not only is it illegal, but it'll also cost you low-end torque.

I am in the middle of LIM gaskets and SC rebuild on my 95. I have many other
smaller similar issues that I was going to take care of at the same time, but I think I'll wait after reading
this thread. I guess the lesson is not to have too many unknown new variables
to diagnose all at once. I'll be watching this thread, so be sure to post back what you find out.

Make sure the Throttle position switch is mounted correctly and functioning. That will kill your power and run you lean for sure.

....another Grizz in the making.

Thanks for the advice about not deleting the Cataylic converter. The thought crossed my mind last night and almost had a saw-zaw party last night instead of unbolting the flange area. I know that fuel is present, at least at the fuel rail, and can smell strong fuel in the exhaust. Glad I didn't sawzaw the cat, car could of been a expensive firework! lol I'm not sure about the spark situation. Can't turn the key and check for spark at the same time. Really waiting for that cable to come in the mail, so I can scan this beast. TPS sensor is also new, within 2 weeks, plus I ohmed it out before installing it. IAC valve is newer,,less than a year and I cleaned the MAF sensor, with that special MAF cleaner spray can deal. I just don't understand how the car can run beautifully after all repairs made, then 30 seconds later after backing the car out of the garage, everything spiraled down to hell.
The car worked fine before all this mess. I just decided to refreshed these sensors while doing a major repair, like the intake gaskets. Tonight, I will remove each spark plug, and dry them out. Put the old computer back in,,and if I get eager enough, put the old crank sensor back in, cross my fingers and try it.

This evening I reinstalled the "old" computer (PCM,ECM). Attempted to start the car, and nothing. Removed all spark plugs, dried and reinstalled. Once again nothing. I was eager enough to pull the harmonic balancer and re install the old crank sensor. Once I pulled the harmonic balancer, I found the problem. The sleeve of the harmonic balancer had serious cracks which allowed the crank to spin at a different rate than the harmonic balancer. I did big repairs on this car by replacing the intake gaskets. I figured why not replace all sensors, due to age and hi mileage. Taking a proactive approach. I had read forums about the harmonic balancers and how the rubber degrades causing timing to be off. That's why I replaced this. Most parts/sensor that I baught were dealer parts. I didn't want to chance wrong/incapatible parts. The one part that wasn't OEM was the harmonic balancer. I purchased that off Ebay new for a third of the price. From me cheesing and saving a buck, I'm now paying the price. Learn from me! It wasn't opereator error on the installation. I installed it once, and had to remove it, "to install the new oil seal". It looked fine the first time I had it off, maybe a bad casting? Now I need help on what to do next. From the pictures, there is barely anything left from the key on the crank. What's my next step? Thinking right now that I'm screwed!

OMFG!!!!!

You are screwed I'm afraid.
You can't sleeve that!

Looks to me like you will have to replace the crankshaft!

New engine.....

I see what looks like a casting flaw. Maybe you can get GM to pay?

914lover wrote:The one part that wasn't OEM was the harmonic balancer. I purchased that off Ebay new for a third of the price.

Paul, GM won't help him here.

Without jumping to conclusions of how bad this looks. How much of the crank picture is dirt and how much is a dented or beaten crank? You say there isn't much keyway, do you mean the key itself is bad or the key way in the crank is bad?

Key's can be replaced like harmonic balancers can. No doubt you will be replacing the balancer, the one in the picture is not capable of being used. The real question here is .. how does the crank honestly look, because that picture doesn't show close enough detail to make well informed judgement on it.

The crank shaft doesn't look all that bad. The first inch of the shaft isn't as shiny, but the diameters looks the same. The only thing that's not good on the crank is the key. I wasn't aware this had a keyhole. I thought the key was milled and part of the crank. I cleaned everything up this morning,,and looking very good, except that key. I tried to remove the key. I used a wood chisel, to help bight into the key, then used a screw driver. The first 1/8" of the key broke off flush with the crank I have alittle more than 1/2" exposed to play with and if that break's off then I'm back to the screwed status. Should I take a chance and continue, or have this beast towed to a mechanic? Your sure this has a removable key? What shape is the key? What's the best angle of attack to get it out?

Ah, my mistake. I looked at the harmonic balancer and thought it was the crank shaft.

Yes, the key can be replaced. It is not that bad. It is square.

You are not screwed. Go in from the end and try and pry it up and out.

You may have to measure the OD of the shaft fit to make sure you still have an interference fit.