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I know the sub-frame is held on by 6 bolts & bushings...I know the cradle is NOT rusted out. Does anyone have a part number for a replacement bushing kit for them...If I'm going to replace them I might as well do them all. Any Help greatly appreciated

Use the Dormans, all 6 are the same. I did mine in November. What a difference! Replace the rear motor mount while you're in there.

Subframe bushings:
Dorman 924-044

Motor Mount:
ACDelco 25723646

Alrighty, thanks...also didn't look into it too hard...are they press fit or just bolt in?

You're almost certainly going to have to get the subframe entirely out of the car and bang those suckers out. 4 of my 6 were seized into the subframe and had to be banged out from the top.

ugh, not what I was hoping for....thankyou for the information.

As long as everything comes loose, this job looks a lot more intimidating than it really is. My driven-in-the-salt car had all the bolts come loose with some patience.

I did it at a friend's shop with his help, but if I had to do it again I can probably do it on some ramps in my garage, as long as I have one or two people to help with lifting the subframe carefully out and in. It doesn't weigh all that much, I held it over my head, but it is cumbersome given its size.

If you plan on keeping the car for a while, this is a great time to do things like control arm bushings, sway bar bracket and end link bushings, maybe even the steering rack and/or tie rod ends, etc.

You'll have almost all of that stuff loose and ready to go. I wish I would have done it that way originally instead of piece by piece.

I did this job in the driveway with jackstands. It was only a couple hour project.

The main things that I can think if you you need to disconnect from the subframe:
ABS
Brake line, trans line and power steering line brackets
lower control arm bolts (do this at the subframe, not the ball joint)
steering rack (leave the tie rod ends connected to the knuckle, leave it all up there)
front trans mount (def replace this while you have the subframe out)

As long as you have air tools and a jack, you can do this job.

Thanks guys, I have access to a full shop and all the tools, I just wasn't really wanting to take it out...that said, I agree I will do everything while I have it out....thanks for the tips...If I can I will post progress pics when i get it in the shop.

Just so you have an idea as to the difficulty level, I took a whole day off of work to do this job.

It ended up taking just under 3 hours start to finish. Including getting lunch and needing to get sway bar end links, since I broke mine! Haha

Thanks NOS, lol at the broken end link...I just replaced mine with poly upgrades due to one side being broken and missing.

Finally got them ordered, all 6 should be here by friday along with new lower control arms.

UPDATE:
Got the Control arms replaced...easy peasy, got the back 4 subframe bushings replaced (didn't have time to do the front two).

NOTES: Did NOT remove subframe, took back 4 subframe bolts out, took rack & pinion bolts out. took trans mount bolts and nut out. supported frame with jack, loosened front bushings, lowered subframe down via the jack until there was about 10" or so of clearance. used air hammer to zip the old bushings out (worked wonders, don't think any of them took longer than a minute to get out). Used ball joint tool to press the new bushings up into the subframe (this was by far the best/easiest method. The guy helping do the other side was just using a c-clamp and that did work but was no where near as easy). applied petroleum jelly to the bushings before pressing them up in since the metal is rubber coated. also used some on the top metal pieces so they would slip into the new bushing. will update again after we tackle the front two.

Nice! Glad to hear it went well.

Hey Carl,
If I do the subframe removal on the garage floor, which is best way to support the engine/trans.? My guess from the top? And where is the best spot to support the car, my outer frame is pretty rusty. I have hockey pucks in the sub right now in the center locations, because the sub mount holes are all rusted open. Thanks.

nos4blood70 wrote:Use the Dormans, all 6 are the same. I did mine in November. What a difference! Replace the rear motor mount while you're in there.

Subframe bushings:
Dorman 924-044

Motor Mount:
ACDelco 25723646

That Dorman # also works on a 2000 Bonne?

Yes sir, all 2000+ 3800 powered Bonnes can use these bushings.

carl wrote:Hey Carl,
If I do the subframe removal on the garage floor, which is best way to support the engine/trans.? My guess from the top? And where is the best spot to support the car, my outer frame is pretty rusty. I have hockey pucks in the sub right now in the center locations, because the sub mount holes are all rusted open. Thanks.

You can support it from the top, but ultimately the side mounts for the engine will still hold her up. I'd have Andrew confirm.

I lowered my subframe in my garage later to change out the rear motor mount because I put a crappy one in. I didn't support the motor at all from the top, just used a floor jack on the oil pan.

Hate to bring up an old topic, but when i enter my car in Dormans part finder it says the mounts do not fit, could they be wrong. I have a 2003 SLE, passenger side mounts creaking. Thanks in advance.