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How much of the dash has to come apart? Just spent a day fiberglassing cracks and broken tabs in my door panel and don't want to dig into the dash if it will be another storm of old fragile plastic tabs. Only looking to fix the dead spots in the dash dimmer so should i leave it be?

Take the dash panel off, then the panel above the gauge cluster, IIRC. I did mine a couple years ago and didn't break anything. I don't remember taking too much caution either.

i've replaced mine like 4 times now. I can do it blindfolded.
Main clipped-on front panel has to be popped off. Bezel around
the switch and top panel over the cluster. I believe they
are torx screws. It takes alot of wiggling to get the switch
out of the hole but it will eventually come out.

The only real risk is popping the clips on the front panel, which
could break.

skregal wrote: The only real risk is popping the clips on the front panel, which
could break.

When you say front panel, are you talking about the fascia that covers the vents, HVAC, radio, and gain slider? If so i'm good there.

Thanks! My interior plastics have turned into a house of cards. Maybe from too much armorall.

I waited to long to do this. The switch for auto headlamps is no longer available. Can the switch for manual headlights be piggybacked on to the back of my automatic part of the switch?

I wondered that same thing when I was doing it. I don't remember the conclusion I came to.

Ordered one, i'll report back.

Yep the Standard Motor Products DS656 switch screws right on the back of the twilight sentinel part. No need to find the discontinued DS657. Check out the filings and/or corrosion on my old dimmer.

I wanted to remove the cluster and clean the connections for my intermittent DIC, but couldn't get enough wire pulled out to disconnect the cluster. The plastic is all so fragile.

Excellent. Good find!

kool nice job

Thanks for posting your result.
Surely it will help others.
I appreciate the good clear pics, too.