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How do you keep the knuckle out of the way long enough to line up the ball joint and press to install the new ball joint? It took me forever to get it out of the way long enough to press the old one out. Any help would be appreciated, I'm stuck. I tried removing the two bolts for the knuckle and they are seized...I removed the nuts, and soaked the bolts with PB-Blaster, but if I don't have to remove them, I don't want to. Also, I thought about removing the rear sway bar end-links to help free it up, but they are frozen as well, so I would have to cut them to remove them, but again, if I don't have to...

Removing the sway bar link won't help to free up the lower strut bolts but it will help you to get the knuckle out of the way after it and the lower strut bolts are removed..
The only way I was able to loosen those lower strut bolts--after thoroughly soaking with PBBlaster---was a breaker bar with a piece of pipe on the end for added leverage.
I should add that I used a 6 point impact socket rather than a regular thin-walled socket. The Tekton brand at Amazon seems pretty durable as far as a reasonably priced impact socket set goes.
Anticipating that the sway bar links would break, I had them on-hand already.
There's no need to cut the link, as the bolt simply breaks when you try to unthread the nut.
No idea whether or not I did things a harder way than necessary.

With the car high on jack stands, I put a jack under the control arm and slowly let it down. You should be able to get the ball joint well out of the way by letting the control arm swing down.

My rear bolts were rusted in place so bad a mini-sledge wouldn't even budge them. I had to borrow a buddy's snap-on air chisel (had a punch bit) to punch them out. When the first one finally broke loose it was airborne for at least 10' and tumbled another 15' down my driveway..

What a difference removing the sway bar end-links made! I ended up cutting them out, as I rounded off one and the other was frozen. I would've had it done tonight (minus new end-links), but one of the ball joints was shipped without a boot...it looked like the package had been previously opened. I guess I'll call in the morning and try to get them to expedite one to me, I don't remember if I got it from Rock Auto or Amazon, I'll have to check. Either way, the new ones are pressed in. Thanks for the help!

Glad you were helped out.

Amazon often does expedite things when there has been a problem that was their fault--such as a missing part.
From my personal experiences, they're also more likely to be the guilty party, since the people accepting returns there don't know diddly about auto parts.

FWIW, Rockauto has offered forum members a 5% discount http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 46095.html

I just did the rear ball joints on mine after I'd noticed a lot of lateral play in the left rear wheel, while replacing the struts.
It really surprised me to find that it was the ball joint, since that type of play is more typical of a tie rod.

Amazon took care of it, I'll have the replacement tomorrow

The replacement they sent was missing the boot too, next one arrives on Wednesday

Well that's certainly a PITA but at least you can relax for the weekend, instead.

Stinks, because it's only 10 minutes worth of work once I have the boot. Looks like I'm have to borrow a vehicle again this week

Of course you could tell Amazon to give you a refund and just buy a ball joint locally.

It's already pressed in and the tool's been returned

The third one they sent had the boot and castle nut from a much larger ball joint. Amazon told me to send them all back and source it locally if possible. So I ordered one from O'Reilly and rented the tool again...frustrating