PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

1995 Pontiac Bonneville SE, 3.8L, Automatic, no turbo or supercharger, 106k miles

Symptoms:

- Can't get past 2k rpms while in drive

- Runs super rough while in any gear

- Tries to die when shifted from park

- Has a CEL

What I've done:

- Sparkplugs and wires just done a few thousand miles ago

- Cleaned the EGR when I did the Sparkplugs as it would shake at like 2k rpms, so when using cruise control at 75mph it would shake, as it was at 2k rpms

- Disconnected and swapped out the Throttle Position Sensor with one that I know works, no change

- Disconnected the MAF, ran worse

- Replaced fuel filter (inline)

- Replaced waterpump

- Air filter was "clean", bit dirty, needs replaced, but wasn't clogged

Things On My List:

- Fuel Pump

- Clogged Cat

- Crank Sensor?

- Timing?

- EGR valve

So previously (according to my brother who has no mechanical skills what soever) the car was running rough, lacked power, and would like to try to die when stopping, and he'd have to give it some gas. This whole time the CEL was one, you'd think something would've clicked that a big orange light was on saying "check engine" and he would've called me, or taken it to the auto parts store and gotten it read, of course not. Then the waterpump fell off, as he pulled into his driveway, he said it was making some noise then he found the pulley in the driveway, sent him a pulley diagram, "it's the crankshaft pulley", I shat a brick, till he sent me a picture of it lol. (we live an hour apart), the whole shaft sheared off, [pics](http://imgur.com/a/ncxtu). So that's why I replaced the pulley, after it had sat for a month or so, as I had no time in my schedule to go up and replace it. And now I'm trying to find out what in the hell is making it run like *shoot* lol.

Now the CEL is still on, but there's absolutely no way it could make it to the auto parts store to get it read. I've posted an ad, and looked on Craigslist to have someone read the codes, offering $20, which my city is about 8miles x 12 miles, so not like it'd be more than a gallon or two of gas, and it's $2/gal, so would be a minimum of like $15 in pocket for the guy, which I thought would've been fair. Though I believe it is OBD 1.5 which only some OBD 2 scanners can read? (Read it from some forums)

I have a 1998 Intrigue with the 3.8L that I can use to test parts, that's where I got the TPS from. So any parts I would like to test, I could just swap, and at worst have to replace a gasket. Though when I did the TPS swap my brother started the *dang* thing and I hadn't plugged i the TPS (the hood was open!), so now the intrigue's CEL is on! And I think you can only get them cleared by a scanner, so a trip to the LAPS is going to be done tomorrow, *dang* kids lol.

[Video of it running](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QtnDMp ... e=youtu.be)

I had a similar problem on a previous car, something to possible check at least is the o2 sensor. I had one ground out before that caused a similar issue. not very likely though. Check all the wires around all of your sensors for a decent start point. Another possibility is that your ground bus under the carpet on the drivers side could be corroded casuing your fuel pump or something else to not work correctly.

With the shake, and symptoms, I would almost wonder if the firing order is incorrect. Maybe even a bad coil, which would put you down to 4 functioning cylinders. Possibly the ICM, or corrosion, but I would double check the coils, and order first.

I am a little confused about what is pictured. You said the crank shaft pulley, but that does not look like a HB in the picture. Is that the water pump hub that snapped, taking the pulley with it?

I wouldn't start part swapping parts till you find what code is stored in the PCM.

I wouldn't change the fuel pump w/o testing the line pressure.

Does the cat glow red hot?

Usually when the crank sensor goes, the engine will not fire at all, or shut off randomly. The timing is PCM controlled, but all based off the signal from the C/S.

I would not suspect the EGR from watching the video. Still wouldn't write it off till you get the trouble code.

I have not let it run more than about 30 seconds when swapping parts, in fear of making it worse, so I do not know if the cats get red hot.

The symptoms happened mildly prior to the waterpump pulley coming off, the whole shaft of the waterpump sheared off (bearings seized) so the pulley came off with. My brother stated it was the crankshaft pulley originally (this is a copy and paste from reddit, where I posted about the scare of him telling me his crankshaft pulley came off in the driveway, when it was just he waterpump lol) and just threw that in in the event that that would be a possible cause, as when that happened I'd assume the serpentine belt would've been locked in place without a pulley moving, all the force went into shearing the shaft.

I questioned the EGR also today, actually bought two gaskets, but forgot my socket extensions (I have like 30 of them, not one did i have in my tool box!) so I was unable to reach the right side bolt. As I stated previously the EGR valve was clogged. I unplugged it at idle, no change, in drive, no change, reved it in drive without the EGR valve, seemed to be no change. It's a possibility.

I posted it for $1100 on CL, books at $1400 lowest, but I'd say it'd be worth $1000 running, tad bit of rust, interior is a bit rough, hood has a dent and scratch. He bought the car for $1100, is moving to the big apple and won't be needing the car. So if he can get $800 out of it not running I'll do it, I'm spending a hell of a lot of money in gas, old '95 Dakota driving 80 miles up, and 80 miles back every weekend, and gas is going up. Next weekend I will test the EGR valve, if the car is not sold, for I am headed up that way for our father's birthday.

Also in the camp of an ignition issue.

When I did the subframe on my SSE, a friend *helped* me put on the new plug wires (after plugs). When I fired it up, it ran like CRAP! Uhhhh... Seems as though there had been a miscommunication, or something.... Two of the front wires had been transposed, were on the wrong coils when compared to the intended plug. Yes, coughing, spitting, jerky serp belt tensioner action....

Last summer, when one of the coils packed it in, it was similar in how it ran. Easy to check the spark with the engine running, just pull the plug wires at the coils one at a time.

Someone else had a crappy/weak/rough running car last summer: http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 44056.html

GL!

sparkplugs were done prior to this acting up. And I did them one at a time, so no way they would've been mixed up. Wouldn't hurt to check for a faulty wire/coil I suppose though. I know they're all pushed on all the way though, already checked that lol.

Catalytic Converter is my guess. Had similar happenings with my Formula and everything tested OK...then one day I parked over a carpet and melted the crap out of it right where the converter was and DING the light came on in my head.

Drive it at night and after you go about 30 min look under the car and see if the converter is glowing at all.

Yeah, it can't run at all, driving, good luck, you can be floored and won't go past 2k rpms, and hold one because you'll rattle out of your seat! I was planning to disconnect the exhaust, and try to clean/swap the egr valve with the one on the intrigue when I go up next weekend.

While it is running (even if someone has to hold the pedal) feel the exhaust pipe and see if there is any pressure at all coming out of it.

The exhaust has pressure, but it's like puffing in a sense. Isn't smooth, and the puffs are pretty hard.

Hmmmmm, doesnt sound like a plugged cat.

I vote PCM. They can be a bit flakey in 95. But try swapping all the ignition coils off your Intrigue. If it makes no difference, you have to get a scan. We can guess till our fingers turn blue all while the PCM is trying to tell you what is wrong. Find the right scanner on ebay or something.