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I'm tired of this. Every 3 months is something new that costs over $500.

Got my check engine light today and started smelling something awful. Code P0620. The deduction from the mechanic:

The alternator needs to be replaced ($450 total) and the thermostat housing is cracked and needs to be replaced ($300). I literally just replaced the Thermostat with the INTENSE 180 and he's also suggesting using OEM (maybe to be safe?).

What are your thoughts? Should I replace the thermostat or just leave the INTENSE and get the remaining items replaced?

You are getting raped HARD for those prices. Those are very easy fixes, used alternator from from a local salvage yard should run less then $50 and takes about 20 minutes to swap out. Thermostat housing is also something you may as well get used and should be stupid cheap.

I personally wouldn't go with a junkyard part as you don't know how long that'll last but that's up to you and your budget. Definitely agree the thermostat is way overpriced, can be done by yourself for vastly less.

It's not the thermostat, but the housing. I was told it costs like $30 but then there's the fluids and the labor to replace the thing. He told me an OEM alternator is $330 and that the supercharged model version is ~$70 more. He seems genuinely honest and may just now know better? Idk...but right now it's still looking like $700 for this.

You don't know how long a new or rebuilt alternator will last either, it might die two weeks after the three month warranty is up. I have replaced the last three alternators on different cars I have owned with used ones and never had an issue with them.

crash93ssei wrote:You don't know how long a new or rebuilt alternator will last either, it might die two weeks after the three month warranty is up. I have replaced the last three alternators on different cars I have owned with used ones and never had an issue with them.

I won't question your experiences but I've never heard a new alternator giving up the ghost like that. Smells of user error but whatever. Like I said, whatever his budget calls for is what will work. Still think that housing replacement quote is ridiculous.

P0620 is an alternator control circuit issue.

But you said it was smelling something aweful. Is it an acrid burnt electrical smell (which would substantiate the alternator issue)? Or is it rotten eggs, which would indicate a catalyst/fueling issue.

The housing is literally a bolt that a wrench can reach, no need to drain the fluids just unbolt it and swap it. You'll loose whatever fluid was in the upper hose but its not much at all, just rinse the spill off and top off the radiator you'll be fine. As for the alternator its 3 bolts and 2 plugs i believe easy fix. I think 400 for an alternator is stupid, maybe for the oem acdelco but no reason to get that honestly. Like ryan said junkyard is a good bet.

That's rediculous marked-up prices. You can buy them yourself for way less (<$200 for the alternator for sure), and either have someone do the work or DIY. There's a ton of great info on here. It's just nuts and bolts...

After having a plethora of spare parts I doubt I'll ever buy a reman unit. The few I've boughten have turned to junk after a couple years. Just seems the quality is not there.

I would go with a used OEM part everyday of the week. As stated above you should be able to fix these yourself for around $50.

Well now I'm at a loss again. Just for some background info, my battery was replaced 3 months ago.

I got my car back Tuesday from the shop. $667 later the alternator was replaced and the thermostat housing was as well. The smell is gone. I believe it was the coolant leaking from the thermostat.

I drive my car twice a week. Here I am again and THE BATTERY LIGHT IS BACK ON. I have a brand new Delphi(sp?) alternator. My car says battery saver is active. I'm pulling the same P0620 code. What is REALLY going wrong here? I'm not paying this shop for more repairs am I? They should do this for free right?

Okay, nevermind. I need a lot more help than I thought.

I was driving and the battery light came on. I unfortunately was on my way somewhere and drove another hour. Slowly I lost every electrical part of my car starting with anti lock brakes and moving through security, traction control, gasometer, radio, AC, HUD started flickering, I lost my brake lights, signals, window power, and headlights were dim. Eventually the engine started stuttering and it was a struggle to make it anywhere.

I have had electrical issues in the past...bad ones. Apparently there is a ground in the trunk but it seemed in tact.

Can someone help?

Are all the wires and plugs to the alternator tight? Are the battery cables tight? Also the grounds from battery to engine are under the ICM on that bracket, are they tight?

Also yes this should go back on the shop, they gave it a clean bill of health for that code and since the same code came back up with the same problems its their deal. Be firm and don't Give any ground they shouldn't charge you. Don't get tricked into feeling like you owe them for labor or anything as you don't

Thank you! The new shop said it looks like the alternator again. They said it was only putting out 8v I believe. They said it would be Wednesday before they got a Napa Gold alternator. Is this a good brand?

I'm 2 hours away from my home and 1 hour from my girlfriends. Is it a good idea to ask them to charge it and drive to my girlfriends house?

I have bought all my alternators for all my cars from orielys with life time warranties for about $100 a piece, I have replaced all of them twice now. However the replacements have all been free with Warranty and like others here have said, replacing an alternator on this car is a basic job that anyone can do with basic tools and YouTube in about 30 minutes. Don't trust the mechanic, diy or get a friend to install it.

xyeLz wrote:I was driving and the battery light came on. I unfortunately was on my way somewhere and drove another hour. Slowly I lost every electrical part of my car starting with anti lock brakes and moving through security, traction control, gasometer, radio, AC, HUD started flickering, I lost my brake lights, signals, window power, and headlights were dim. Eventually the engine started stuttering and it was a struggle to make it anywhere.

If you run your battery down while you are driving, that is what will happen. I also on my '92 SSE have done the same as coop8070. Good luck! hope you get it squared away. I continue to say, 1) cars(and trucks) are money pits 2) cars(and trucks) are also a curse, especially when they give you lots of problems. Also a new car(or truck) does not guarantee you to be without car trouble. - BC