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So yeah... it seems I have been stricken with the ever so typical spinning nut on the fuel tank strap bolts on the '99 Olds 88. Any tips on how to get them off? I tried sticking a wrench up in there with no luck.... can't get a hack saw in there and I definitely can't use heat.

Any help is appreciated, my mom has to use the car in the morning! TIA!

drill them out

as said above drilling them out is best. I have used a cutoff wheel before but that's really not the best idea.

Evan0801 wrote:drill them out

That's what I had to do. Started with a tiny bit and progressively went larger in very small increments.

It's gonna be a long night!

Grind em.

A hacksaw blade will work if you can insert it between the screw cap and the bracket. You'll only be able drag two or three teeth across the screw's side at a stroke as you flex the blade and push / pull it, but eventually it will cut all the way through. I did this on a 92 Olds 88 last year. Sprayed them the next time.

Cutoff wheel or reciprocating saw to cut the straps, once the fuel lines / tank and everything is out of the way then you can use the cutoff wheel to cut the head off the bolt and to cut the nut out of the body. Replace with stainless bolts and new straps.

Cutoff wheel takes like 20 seconds to go through both straps. Keep the sparks away from any gas fumes, so make sure you don't have any leaks or open lines, direct them down at the ground toward the center of the vehicle. If you are working indoors don't use a cutoff wheel on the straps. If you aren't comfortable, don't know what you're doing, then don't use a cutoff wheel on the straps. Don't cut through the tank. If you're replacing the tank, you can drain it and then back-fill with some water. A fire extinguisher would be good to have nearby just in case. But I've never had a problem.

With new hardware, you will need to make a 90 degree bent box wrench. Buy a cheap one for that, in a vice heat up the neck about 1 inch from the box end with a torch until it glows, then use a pipe to bend it. Re-heat the bend with the torch and then quench it in used motor oil in a metal container with a metal lid.

The new hardware goes in reverse than the original did. The OEM method has a nut welded to the body bracket, and the bolt is removed. With the new hardware the bolt needs to go on the body bracket, with a lock washer on each side and a nut to retain it, then the strap goes on and lastly washer & nylon lock nut. From top to bottom it's bolt, lock washer, body bracket, lock washer, nut, strap, washer, lock nut. The 90 degree wrench will fit over the head of the bolt to keep it from spinning when putting up or removing the strap. If you have a welder you can make a new retainer and weld the nut to the retainer instead to maintain the OEM method of installation.