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Car ran errands all day last Monday and after getting gas, wouldn't start. It had full power but would not crank.

Starter and alternator new, battery tests good.

- Cleaned cables with wire brush at starter and at battery.
- No spark, not sure if I have fuel but I put a 194 light bulb in one of the injector connectors and had Mark turn the key but no lights. I will rent a proper fuel injector test kit...
- Hooked up remote starter switch and attempted to start, no change. Starter does engage.
- Security light blinks a few times with key on then turns off. Never saw it on when the car was running.
- Repaired broken ground wire at ICM bracket, no change
- Tightened ICM connection
- Tried to start car with cam sensor unplugged, no dice. re-plugged sensor and tried to start car at 25% throttle and that didn't work either.
- Put the car in neutral and tried to start it, still the same.
- Cleaned chip in key with denatured alcohol. I know from the carfax the lock cylinder had been replaced a couple times, wonder if I can test this? very comfortable taking steering columns apart.
- Crank sensor is practically new, it is aftermarket though.

I have a continuity tester, a test light, and an FSM. electrical stuff is a little daunting to me though, and I cannot find a diagnostic chart for a car that won't crank. I found one for a car that cranks but won't start, that's the one I've been working off of... but I'm wondering if that's even worth continuing as the car doesn't even crank.

If you guys have any more things for me to try or have some advice for electrical dummies I would really appreciate it!!

I just typed up this big ole long spiel about the possibility of a crank position sensor, but I realized now it doesn't fit.

Oh well.

An issue with the security module could cause what you are describing, but that shuts off the fuel pump, not shutting off fuel injectors and spark. That makes me suspect something is up with the PCM also, but I think the PCM has no control over a starter interrupt.

My thoughts.... Check fuses, especially one going to the PCM. Also check the ground busses, especially the one on the passenger side foot well (I think there is one there anyway), as well as the one on the drivers side.

Not 100% on the 92s, but I believe (and I'm quoting what I've heard mattstrike say regarding this) that if you have no spark, that can be caused by the crank sensor, the icm, or a few other things. Basically all the signal from the crank sensor goes through the ICM, so if either fail, that will cause a no spark. But this does sound like it could be PCM related.

Have you tried Bob's quick fix? Maybe try spraying some water on the crank sensor and the connectors, then pack some dielectric grease in the connector? Wish I could be more help, and good luck!

Yes, no spark during crank is a result of the crank sensor or wire harness or ICM.

But fuel injector pulse is a computer function, separate from the spark.

And the VATS-controlled relays (crank, fuel pump) are again separate.

So I would first check that the computer or ignition fuse hasn't blown, also make sure that all the computer/ignition fuses are +12v hot in key on with the test light. You might have to trace the circuit all the way back through the ignition switch to the main maxi-fuse and relay center under the hood to find where the break is at.

PRNDL switch?
if its busted, car wont crank

thanks for the replies guys, looks like I have some new things to try this weekend!

I think I read everything correctly, but I need some verification. Does the engine crank over at all? Or does the starter engage the flex plate with a solid "thunk" and nothing more? Have you tried turning the engine over by hand, or by using a 1/2" drive ratchet with the (I can't remember the size) socket on the center bolt of the harmonic balancer?

"engine will not crank" means the starter will not turn the engine. "engine cranks, but will not fire" means the starter turns the engine over, but it will not start.

Technical, I know. But lots of folks describe problems "wrong", making it even more difficult to diagnose a fault "at a distance".

impala67 wrote:PRNDL switch? If its busted, car wont crank

That was my first thought. As far as I can see it affects the starter solenoid only. Worth a check at least.

The starter clicks but does NOT turn the engine over. Tried to turn the engine by hand, it will go backwards but forwards it's completely stuck, even with the flywheel unbolted from the TC.

Sounds like its hydrolocked. Pull the plugs & retry turning it over by hand.

I pulled all the plugs, no change. I have already drained the oil and it looked like just oil, is there a way for a motor to be hydrolocked with no water in the oil? I took some pictures of the bottom end as well, what do you think? Something doesn't look broken to me but I honestly wouldn't know unless it was just really obvious.

Something must be definitely wrong with the engine though I'm thinking...







I did recently install a Dorman HB after my last dorman HB had one of the two assembly bolts come loose after 18K. It caused the car to struggle to even drive but after replacing the HB it seemed back to normal. I did that probably 4 weeks before the car stopped running. I was also hearing a squeaking noise coming from the belt drive but couldn't figure out what was making the noise.

Okay, I 1) am not a mechanic and don't pretend to be, & 2) I have never had to run this type failure before.
Now, the FSM's I have, Book 2 [Drivability & Emissions 6E] & [Electrical Diagnostics 8A], page 8A - 20 -1 shows that fuse 7 (10Amp) in the relay center, is the source of power for all fuel injectors. That fuse feeds power to all the fuel injectors. The PCM supplies the ground through the control circuit in it to complete the circuit to operate the fuel injectors.

12V |-|- ---------- Fuel Injectors ---------- PCM ----- |GROUND

If my printer/scanner was working, I'd scan in the page in question. If you have 12V power out of FUSE 7 in the RELAY CENTER, I'll see if I can get the page scanned in somewhere with all the conductor colors and connector numbers. Hopefully your FSM's will be like the ones I have. Let me know - BC

EDIT: When I replaced the oil pan on the ole green car last year(?), the bottom end looked like your's. I changed to Castrol 100% Synthetic and it really cleaned up the bottom side. How do I know? Cause the oil pan gasket leaked and I had to do it over. - BC

If you haven't already then try slipping off the serpentine belt & see if that helps.

Was the car running & then wouldn't start next time you went to use it or did it stall & never restart?
What's it feel like when you rotate it backwards & then forward? Any noises?

If slipping off the serpentine belt doesn't help then next you'll want to either remove the valve covers or the front cover.

Could be a long shot, but try pulling the valve covers. I hear about it happening more on the LS motors, but they seem to have a lot of people break valvesprings and drop a valve, which would definitely make the motor lock when you're trying to turn it over by hand. Strange that it will turn over backwards and not forwards though, something is definitely physically jamming it. I don't think this is electrical.