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i have a whirring/rubbing noise since i got the car 6 mos ago definitely from the fr right wheel area. it comes on about 30+ and changes with car speed, not eng. speed. i've checked and anchored the mud and splash guards out of the way. They have only 1 or 2 spots where there was very minimum wear spot and it didn't help. Can this be a bad hub bearring?

Could be a wheel bearing. Is there play at both 3/9 o'clock and 12/6 o'clock when you jack up the wheel?

Could also be a tire out of round. How old/worn are they?

I was planning on trying the play at those points tomorrow. A related fact is that the rotors were badly warped when I got it, and there was the brake shudder. I got the rotors turned and that fixed most of the problem. Still at high speed (60+) a bump now may induce a similar shudder or wobble w/ no brakes applied. So I assume the rotor warp caused the ball joints and the tie rod ends to wear excessively.

The tires are Goodyear Assurances and have no abnormal wear. They have quite a bit of wear left. The treads are about a quarter inch. I do not feel or see any wear from rubbing anywhere on the tires.

Talking about wheel bearings… If your anti lock brakes are working be happy…! The bearings will “growl” if worn… turning you will hear more? and they get louder… When they start “Howling” you have waited too long???… Mine were bad when I purchased the car at 140,000 miles.

Really the best way to test if it's a bearing is to swerve back in forth above like 40mph. If the sound gets louder when you turn opposite the bearing and goes away when you turn towards it, it's bad. Turning opposite the bearing with shift weight onto it and make it growl louder. Turning towards it takes weight off and lessens the sound.

Hey Theax40, the noise disappears when I turn right at about 40 and stays there when I turn left. Does it every time. I pretty much have to go with Oreilly's, because I have a good friend who works there and they want about $130 for the second design and $89 for the first design. How can I tell which design I have?

I just replaced one on my 2000 SLE, AFAIK, Timken is the only aftermarket one that's still made in the U.S. That's the one I bought !

It's probably the more expensive of the two. I just replaced mine with a Timken, got it off of Amazon for $80, but they list for around $130. Don't try to save money by getting a cheap, no-name part. I bought an $80 bearing and just had to replace it about 6 months later.

I t was hard to find a realistic price. I found the Timken at Car Quest for $90. I'll have it in later today.

Replaced the wheel bearing, and the noise is gone and it rolls smooth. Theax40 that was a great trick.

Got the switcheroo from Car Quest though. I asked four times and was told yes it's $90 for the Timken. I didn't open the box until I had my hub off. It's chinese

I had the same thing happen with a MOOG hub.......I took it back, pronto !

Hi guys... first post on this forum (Love it... and the participation level is quite high!!).

Diagnosing wheel bearings are easier than most seem to think. Jack up the car and spin the wheel. It should not sound like a pencil sharpener.

I used to have a hate on for the cheap wheel hubs and rotors... until I realized that the parts store I go to offers a lifetime warranty for an extra $4.

So I bought two wheel bearing/hubs for a total of $70 plus tax (Thats $35 each!). Add one $4 life time warranty... (They have no idea what one I am bringing back!!)

I am ahead of the game in my eyes.

Out of the first two I put on I brought back one... I do the work on my own and it takes me less than 30 minutes a side.

Just made certain the spindle is clean and you torque them proper and you wont have a problem... I think that is where I messed up the "defective" one.

My 2¢

Craig