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It started with a simple flat tire... Broke out the scissors jack, started cranking her up. Settling and creaking started as the tire lost contact with the ground. Then crunches as the car dropped back down onto the tire. Right through the quasi-frame rail. Sniff sniff, whats that smell.... *dang*, jack sliced the gas line

Ouch.

Sadly, this is where all of these cars are headed.

I've looked at a combination of 6 H-bodies (4 Bonnes and 2 88s) over the past few months, and nearly every one of them have had either subframe mount rust, rocker rust, wheelwell rust, front strut tower rust or rust under the back seat...... or a combination of all of them. The worst was a 98 SSEi that had nearly no metal holding the rear subframe mounts in. I pointed it out and the guy said "Don't worry about it, it's not structural". Uhh... yeah it is.

Luckily, my sister's Olds 88 doesn't have too much rust... just a little on the dog legs and a bit on the rocker seams.

It's sad, to see these cars going. All it takes is regular car (under-body) washes as part of your winter maintenance to prevent a significant amount of this rust. And stop the rust as soon as it starts.

Hopefully my rust restoration thread has encouraged you to fix the car up

In cars that old, the pinch weld seams aren't strong enough to hold the car up, you would have had better luck moving it further under the car and on the framerail.

My subframe bushings were bad when I last jacked my car up in the driveway. Immediately after setting the car down my steering rack started binding requiring replacement. Since then I've been bringing my car to my mechanic to raise by the lift. I try and avoid using the floor jack now do to the age of the car.

Here's a good rust example -

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/3234411607.html

"engine is braced with chains"

Just means you need to come to the southwest to get another one. Rust is unheard of over here

RJolly87 wrote:Just means you need to come to the southwest to get another one. Rust is unheard of over here

^^^^
THIS!

I have family in FLorida might have to pick one up next time we go down there.....


Don't the car get's are sunbaked in the hotter places that don't have salt?


We know someone from ARizona and he was saying it gets so hot it burns the paint right off some of the cars. Cracks the dashboards, etc.

Assessed the situation finally last night and this morning... It neither sliced the fuel line nor went completely through the floor. Subframe seemed to be solid enough.

What caused the fuel spill was a tug on the main line and it is actually occurring at the rotting-out hard line from the tank, and it crumbled within the connector. I am working on trying to find a floor jack as there is no way in hell I am going to work near the tank with only a scissors jack.

So I'll bandage it up as best I can to keep it on the road. Haven't decided if I want to junk it yet. I don't know if I could pass it off on craigslist or not

Ouch! I went through the same thing with my LeSabre. Between that issue, my earlier rust repair starting to rust out, and an expanding commute, it was time to part ways.

Harbor Freight often has low-profile 2-ton jacks on sale. If you're dreaming of getting a newer car someday, go with the steel ones, since they're heavier duty while still being manageable by 1 person. I have the earlier version of this jack, and it's been a pleasure to use: http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 68049.html

Mad Myche wrote:Assessed the situation finally last night and this morning... It neither sliced the fuel line nor went completely through the floor. Subframe seemed to be solid enough.

What caused the fuel spill was a tug on the main line and it is actually occurring at the rotting-out hard line from the tank, and it crumbled within the connector. I am working on trying to find a floor jack as there is no way in hell I am going to work near the tank with only a scissors jack.

So I'll bandage it up as best I can to keep it on the road. Haven't decided if I want to junk it yet. I don't know if I could pass it off on craigslist or not

Are you referring to the flexible high pressure line from the fuel filter to the fuel tank sending unit? If so, that line is replaceable and ofter available at a local dealer. If the high pressure outlet end on the fuel sending unit is indeed crumbled/corroded then you need to replace the sending unit. There really is no safe way to "bandage up" fuel lines. This has to be done correctly.

reb wrote:Are you referring to the flexible high pressure line from the fuel filter to the fuel tank sending unit? If so, that line is replaceable and ofter available at a local dealer. If the high pressure outlet end on the fuel sending unit is indeed crumbled/corroded then you need to replace the sending unit. There really is no safe way to "bandage up" fuel lines. This has to be done correctly.

Yes, it is the outlet line from the pump. I have not fully investigated the extent of corrosion; but it does not appear to be over the entire length. I am well aware that HP fuel lines are not simple rubber tubing replacements, and I would be checking to see what the integrity of the lines were before I replaced the afflicted section. If it is just the end that got broken off due to being ripped out and the rest of the tubing was fine I would not hesitate to put in a replacement hard line for the broken off piece

Bonneville92V688 wrote:Sadly, this is where all of these cars are headed.

only if you live where the use of salt on the roads is liberal. The "ole green machine" (aka ole green monster) has little to no rust. - BC

Mad Myche wrote:Yes, it is the outlet line from the pump.I am well aware that HP fuel lines are not simple rubber tubing replacements, and I would be checking to see what the integrity of the lines were before I replaced the afflicted section.

I wasn't aware of this, thanks for the information. What about the return line since I believe I've got a leak generating there and was thinking of a neoprene repair.

There was enough line coming from the sending unit to work with, and a co-volunteer at the fire department had some slick ass flaring tool that he was able to get in there with. I was able to source some 3/8" Injection rated hose (150psi working / 500 psi max) and purchased 3 feet. I needed less than 2. I double-clamped both ends (with fuel injection hose clamps) and took it to the gas station. Smelled a little gas, but no pool forming

Took it home. Found a pool forming. My lines were good though; I simultaneously had knicked the return line. I broke out the tubing cutter at chopped at the now obvious point of failure. Deburred and cleaned up the line, slid 8" of my remaining HP line onto the return line and again double clamped. No problems found.

Is is what I wanted to do? No, but I have neither the time nor money to replace the fuel pump assembly and the line that goes from it to the fuel filter at this time. If I decide that I am going to keep the car then I will budget the pump and line assembly in for a month or so down the road. The return line I will leave. I am confident in the integrity of both lines.

I'm impressed with the effort and quality of repair you described. You saved yourself quite a bit of money and labor. Those oem hoses are expensive and the tank has to be dropped to change the fuel pump/sending unit.

Good job bro!