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I made a post a few days ago about finding the correct code reader for my '95. I finally got the code pulled (unfortunately I was at work when it was done). I now understand that the three codes pulled (I don't have the exact codes) are supposedly related to the supercharger gasket leaking. I assumed the rough idle and engine light were going to be something simple like a MAF or 02 sensor so I sent my wife (probably not the best idea in hindsight). The mechanics claim the supercharger gasket is leaking, which sucks in too much air, which causes the engine to surge and idle rough. I assume they mean the gasket between the intake manifold and the supercharger. Does this make sense?

If it is that gasket then I suppose I have some work cut out for me. Does the fuel rail need to be disconnected or just unbolted and moved out of the way? If does need to be d/c how do I depressurize it? Does the coolant need to be drained before pulling the Sc? I've read some other posts about the types of gaskets that should be used, it seems up in the air, any suggestions? I'm using this http://members.iinet.net.au/~mgordon/Ca ... d%20V6.pdf as a guide, anything that might be better? I am mechanically inclined but I'm a complete noob with superchargers, should I let the pros handle it? Any other ideas or questions? Thanks a bunch to the guys who post here all the time, in the year I've owned this car I've probably saved at least $1000 from the DIY help. Thanks guys.

The first thing to do is to get the codes and have them available. There is also a set of gaskets between the LIM and block/heads that can cause a vacuum leak also.

Lets start with codes?

What is the maintenance history of the car? Have you noticed any coolant loss? Check the oil and make sure there is no coolant in it.

If you are going to do the SC gasket, it is only a few more bolts to do the LIM gaskets. You do have to drain the coolant because there are ports that allow it to flow through the TB. As for the fuel rails, once unbolted, they can be flipped up out of the wat and held back by a piece of string tied to the wiper arm.

In the mean time, here is some good reading (not exactly the same, but pretty similar):

This one you would have a SC instead of the UIM http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... b1c123da26

The guide you posted is for a Series II, and an Australian RWD version at that. There will be differences.

There is no code specific to the SC gasket, or any other gasket for that matter. If one is leaking, the O2 sensor will see the extra air and skew the fuel relative to what the IAT and MAF say. If it has to go too far, that's when a code sets for a lean condition, or MAF signal, or IAT signal, something like that.

Vacuum leaks can be narrowed down by spraying along gasketed joints with TB cleaner while it's idleing. If the idle changes when you are spraying a particular spot, there's your leak.