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After doing all the other little things to check for I have come to the conclusion my AC needs to be recharged. Now my question is what is the exact process to going about doing this on your own. I have been told it is best to have a professional do it due to the precise amount of refrigerant needed for the system. I have already purchased a bottle, but no hose and gauge yet. If it is recommended by the majority to just have someone else do that, that is what I will do otherwise what is the correct process and amount of refrigerant needed for my '97 SSE without overfilling it and potentially damaging my system from store bought supplies. Thank you in advance.

KERNSX117 wrote:After doing all the other little things to check for I have come to the conclusion my AC needs to be recharged. Now my question is what is the exact process to going about doing this on your own. I have been told it is best to have a professional do it due to the precise amount of refrigerant needed for the system. I have already purchased a bottle, but no hose and gauge yet. If it is recommended by the majority to just have someone else do that, that is what I will do otherwise what is the correct process and amount of refrigerant needed for my '97 SSE without overfilling it and potentially damaging my system from store bought supplies. Thank you in advance.

Most of the R-134 refill cans will have a built in gauge and coupler for adjusting the right amount of refrigerant to the ambient temp. You have the R-134, it should say on the can something about the ambient temp and the correct refill process, a gauge with connector will have a pre-set limit i.e. blue is low, green is in the full zone, red is overcharged. You should see the low side port on the passenger side, next to the strut tower, remove that cap and put you gauge on, you can get an idea here of how much to add, and some gauges come with a twist dial to set for the ambient temp and according to that limit it will place the needle in the blue, green or red zone when it's connected to the low side port, here you can determine if you need to add refrigerant or bleed the line. The rest just follow the refrigerant manufactures' instructions.

It is my opinion that if you intend to do most of your own air conditioning work, get a full gauge set:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 92649.html

I try and avoid the gauges on cans. The gauge set is $50-$70, and you never have to buy a can with a hose or gauge again, which saves money.

Also keep in mind too, the A/C is a sealed system. The refridgerant is leaking somewhere.

And keep oil on the mind too. When the system leaks, it can lose oil as well. I have seen this destroy A/C systems pretty quick too. Too much oil can also cause problems.

This is not easy to do on the V5 system... The V5 doesn't really give you a set of precise set of pressures to work off of as its a variable displacement system... Generally tho the system requires 2.0 - 2.2 Lbs of R134a.. These systems can be down almost a Lb and still function, but not very cold...

How is your system functioning?

I added about 8 oz. to my old Buick, and had ice-cold air again. It had no leaks in the system. Over time the r134a will naturally creep out of the system, at the rate of about an ounce a year IIRC. So if there are no leaks, a 15 year old A/C system should be down 8-10 ounces based on age alone.

Keep in mind, add just enough to get the system cold again, and no more. More isn't better when dealing with r134a.

Correct... On my 03, the system was never touched... I added 1 can( 12 oz ) while watching the pressures, took the can with a small change in pressures... air was once again cold as ice... Still is roughly 8 months later....

RJolly87 wrote: I try and avoid the gauges on cans. The gauge set is $50-$70, and you never have to buy a can with a hose or gauge again, which saves money.

The kit I bought has a removable gauge with quick coupler, I can use on any R-134 refrigerant and oil can. The manifold set is nice to have but not necessary.

Rouge while I agree, I do very much like having the gauges so that I can monitor the pressures on both the low and high side... Comes in really handy sometimes...

But for a quick charge or top off it is not required...

If I may contiue on with this thread since I'm also trying to recharge a 97 SSEi.

Presently I don't believe it's ever been recharged and the temperature out of the center vent is at around 56 degrees. I have the gauges below and was hoping someone could walk me through the procedure. Would it be to my advantage to evacuate first or just go onto to recharge?

Thanks

Can anyone help out?

Maymybonneliveforevr wrote:Can anyone help out?

Wish I could help more, but maybe as a noob I can at least share your pain. What I recall is that when I had my compressor changed the system needed to be evacuated so it would be dry and could accept new refrigerant. When the system is merely "low" it should still have a vacuum (right guys?) and we only added to it. So if you're just low and your ac had been working previously you probably don't need to evacuate it. I am not faced with the daunting task of changing the blend door actuator to get that cold air back into the cockpit where we can feel it. That has been a long road for me, hopefully some results before next week as I'm getting tired of the ht afternoons. Though at times it's been nice to have the windows down and top open.

Thanks for the reply jonnevilleSSEi:

The reason I thought of maybe evacuating is I'm not sure how much is in the system and how stale the R-134a is. Heck I don't even know if freon goes stale. I guess the gauges would tell me approximately how much maybe presently in the system but I don't know what the gauges should read.

I'll wait for others to chime in.

Refrigerant dose not go stale, evacuating the system mostly done to remove and “save” the refrigerant for proper disposal when repairing or replacing components. Here is a site with some good info and charts check out

"Automotive A/C Information Forum"
Tips and FAQ - Evac and Charging

http://www.ackits.com/aacf/ptchart.cfm

Frank...

When was the last time the system was charged? And what was the exterior temp and humidity while you were blowing 56F out of the vents?


If the system was cracked open, or was completely empty due to a leak then I would recommend that the system be vac pumped down to boil off any moisture.... But being that the system still works, it could simply be 1 Lb low... Hard to gauge with the V5, but if its low enough the V5 will get to a point that its can't compensate for this( meaning its varied its piston stroke as far as it can to compensate ).... General rule of thumb is to stay in the 25-40 Psi range low side, and 250-300ish high side.... But let get a proper manual to see what those specs are for a 97 Bonneville V5...

as bad as a low charge can be, Overcharging an cause damage as well, so when you do get to the point of charging err on the side of caution...


I also agree that refrigerant does not get stale, should be no problem there...


again,


1) what was the humidity and ambient air temp when you got the 56F reading from the center vents?

2) Has the system ever been charged in the time you have owned it?

3) was the AC cooling ability something you noticed over time, or did this happen suddenly?

4) Does the compressor groan or seem a little louder than normal?

RPACODY wrote:Here is a site with some good info and charts check out
http://www.ackits.com/aacf/ptchart.cfm

Thanks for the link, I'll read up when I have time.

Jrs3800 wrote:When was the last time the system was charged? And what was the exterior temp and humidity while you were blowing 56F out of the vents?

I don't have any record of the system ever being open up and the previous owner gave my all the receipts. I've owned the car for 4 years now and the coldest I've monitored the center vent was at 42 degrees.

Jrs3800 wrote:1) what was the humidity and ambient air temp when you got the 56F reading from the center vents?

Thanks for the reply Don. Outside temperture was 91 F and humidity was approximately 40 %.

Jrs3800 wrote: 2) Has the system ever been charged in the time you have owned it?

No.

Jrs3800 wrote:3) was the AC cooling ability something you noticed over time, or did this happen suddenly?

About 6 weeks ago I registered center vent at 48 degree with outside temperture at 71 F and humidity at 35%.

Jrs3800 wrote:4) Does the compressor groan or seem a little louder than normal?

No. .

Jrs3800 wrote:General rule of thumb is to stay in the 25-40 Psi range low side, and 250-300ish high side

How do I ensure I keep within that range when refilling.

The only reason I suggested evacuating is I had it in my mind that a fresh system with whole new R-134a would run better. Maybe that's the wrong way of thinking with A/C.

Frank,

It can never hurt to have the system evacuated and pumped down... Its also not a bad idea due to the age to replace the orifice tube filter... Your reading are close to right for the system in all reality... You may be Low and just need a top up...

In your case I would add no more than 1 can( generally 12oz )...

From what I can gather you want to see 25-35 Psi on the low side, This will tell us the control valve is working... But it can be a tad higher than this... On the high side look for 250-300 Psi....

Its also stated that if the Center vent temps are 20F below ambient then the system is functioning as designed...( not a good answer in my book )....

Frank what ever you do, never open the high pressure valve on the manifold assembly, leave it closed if you charge the system.... I have heard of people popping the R134 cans that way, very dangerous...


Not sure how much I can or have helped Frank... Keep asking questions...

If I was there we would have long ago checked the AC...lol

Thanks for the reply Don,

Michael is taking the Bonne to work, so I'll have to wait till I can have it for a couple hours. I'm going to put hook up the gauges and if the setting are low then I will evacuate the system since my way of thinking is there isn't much in the system anyway so what do I have to loose.

Question:
Is it better to recharge auto A/C when the outdoor temperture is high?

I want to thank Mr. Jrs3800 for his help in walking me through the recharge process.


I decided not to evacuate but rather just recharge the system. I installed the gauges as well as around 1 lb of r-134a freon with the gauges ending up at around 32 -200 psi with the center vent at 41F with outdoor temperture at 75 F. My instructor suggested I recheck when the temperature is at 90 F outside and if the center vent is much higher then add a bit more.


Thanks again Teacher!

Well I ran it down to a mechanic and he said that the AC is charged and that it is the doors in the system that are not opening properly that is causing my air to not be cold. Any suggestions before I bring it in to him and spending 200 to 500 dollars?

When they said "the doors in the system that are not opening properly that is causing my air to not be cold." is it possible they used the words, Air mix actuator?