Page 1 of 1
2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:05 pm
by fritcr
I'm new to your site and have been lurking all morning. I just bought this 2000 SE and it needs valve cover gaskets bad. Can anyone tell me if you have to take that housing thing off with the coolant elbow to get the back cover off? I can't figure out a way to do it without taking it off. I'm sure it is here somewhere but have not been able to find it.
Thanks soo much!
Rob
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:14 pm
by SSEiMan01
This may help with your project!
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... =53&t=6879
I had mine done both times, alone and with LIM gaskets by a mechanic friend since I didn't have the time in either case. But that write-up should explain some things, if not, someone else will likely chime in.

Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:14 pm
by harofreak00
Yes, the alternator bracket must come off.
Release those coolant elbows when you have them out. Available at any parts store in the HELP! section, part number 47065. Be sure to put a bead of RTV on them when you reinstall them.
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:19 pm
by yonkerse
You need to loosen the tensioner bracket so it moves out of the way and the valve cover is allowed to come off. The tensioner three bolts to be loosened, two of these are somewhat hidden and not easily seen. I'm currently in between classes, but will try getting a picture indicating the bolts to remove.
So basically:
1. Remove belt (slide belt off of Alternator)
2. Remove Alternator
3. Remove/Loosen three bolts to Tensioner Bracket
4. Remove Valve Cover and replace gasket
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 3:18 pm
by fritcr
That's crazy to have to open the coolant just to put on a valve cover gasket but I will do it. I will also replace the elbows tongiht thanks for the help! Many more projects to come for sure. LOL
Rob
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 3:45 pm
by SSEiMan01
fritcr wrote:That's crazy to have to open the coolant just to put on a valve cover gasket but I will do it. I will also replace the elbows tongiht thanks for the help! Many more projects to come for sure. LOL
Rob
A good time as any to switch to green coolant, assuming you haven't already.

Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 6:08 pm
by harofreak00
Just be glad you aren't doing valve cover gaskets on the N* in the GXP, basically requires removing the engine!
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:01 pm
by yonkerse
harofreak00 wrote:Just be glad you aren't doing valve cover gaskets on the N* in the GXP, basically requires removing the engine!
I could imagine....I get so intimidated whenever I look at a N* engine....
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:57 am
by fritcr
Thanks everyone..it already has the green coolant in it and I put the new elbows on and back cover gasket on it. Ran fine on the way to work. The front one is also leaking looks like. I will do it in a few days.'
Is there some way for me to tell if the LIM gasketes have been changed?
Rob
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:10 am
by SSEiMan01
fritcr wrote:
Is there some way for me to tell if the LIM gasketes have been changed?
Rob
Look between the intake manifold and head, if theyre silver in color, they've been replaced with the updated framed gaskets. If they're black nylon, odds are they're stock, but could also have just been replaced with the older gasket design.

If they're not framed, I would do them for sure, a little extra insurance.
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 3:21 pm
by fritcr
It looks like they have been replaced because there is goop squished out some but I will look tonight and try to see. I think they are black. I did see a redish orange "tab" sticking out on the front of the engine. I wiggled it and it was solid. I hope they are steel. One of the old bonnie's hydrolocked on my wife at Kmart. No coolant leaks that I can see anywhrere but man is it oily. Oil everywhere and it smells at a stop light. I was going to get the VC on and go from there. I need to clean the engine up some and see what is leaking. I just sold my BMW 540i and bought this to drive for a while but if it is solid I really like it and may just drive it for a while. For $2500 I couldn't pass it up. Daughter heading to college and son just getting his license I just could not afford to keep up with the Beemer. Man are they expensive to work on. WOW
Rob
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 1:28 pm
by fritcr
Well the valve cover gasket replacements didn't seem to fix the problem of burning oil smell. I can't really see any fresh oil leaking now but it does smell after along drive at a stop light. Any other known oil leak places to look for? I will try to get it on the lift this weekend and look but when I changed the oil there was so much leaking from the valve covers or so I thought that I could not really tell anything. They were for sure leaking it is all caked up around them. I might try to degrease the engine if it warms up a bit this weekend. It is 23 our today. Burrr
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 1:31 pm
by 00Beast
Give it a few more days and degrease the engine. Could just be some residual oil burning off yet.
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 2:00 pm
by fritcr
I degreased the engine last night in the driveway with purple power and a hose. (not the best way I know but that's all I could do right now) I didn't notice the smell coming in but will need to drive it more probalby. I'm wondering if I didn't get the back one sealed up good or something.
Re: 2000 SE Changing valve covers
Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:16 am
by jedwards83
yonkerse wrote:
So basically:
1. Remove belt (slide belt off of Alternator)
2. Remove Alternator
3. Remove/Loosen three bolts to Tensioner Bracket
4. Remove Valve Cover and replace gasket
If you follow these steps, it is not necessary to completely remove the tensioner bracket, thus not leaking coolant or having to replace elbows. There's enough play in the hoses that if you loosen the three bolts, you can pull the tensioner bracket back far enough to get the valve cover off without ever losing a drop of coolant.
Some will suggest just removing it so that you get the opportunity to replace the two elbows that are prone to failing, but it certainly isn't necessary if you don't feel like it.