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So i decided to go with the FWI route rather then a Cold air box, should perform better and will be much more cost effective. I did go with 3.5" Mandrel bent Aluminum, Silicone reinforced couplers and a K&N filter. I did however order a bit to much piping so i may have enough to build 2... So i may have one up for sale if i do have enough to build a 2nd one if someone is interested. I am having it TIG welded and it will be pollished (welds and all). I will post pics when its done and if i have enough to make 2 i will post as well.

Ohh and if i can sneek onto the dyno i will post results as well.

S

Please don't post Performance topics in the Mechanical sections of the Forum. That's what Performance and Brainstorming is for. I'll move your topic for you.

With no other mods, the amount you gain from any intake will be less than the normal run-to-run variation on a dyno. Don't waste your money. Even after several 'hard parts' mods, I seriously doubt you'd see any change.

Aluminum will get hot. How are you going to deal with it when it comes to the heat from your crossover pipe and general engine bay heat?

How much KR are ya getting with that 3.25 pulley?

I have basicly Free pulls on a dyno so no maney wasted there 2 very good friends of mine own a performance shop. All my FWI's have been Steel in the past so im not to conserned about the heat soak, but i do have some header wrap i was thinking of wrapping the X-over and also trimming some of the weather strip on the cowl side of the hood to let some heat out there as well (did that on my last car and it does let some heat roll out). On my last car i did gain 1-2 psi with adding a FWI so im hoping it will show some gain.

As for KR i have some more tuning to work on. only KR im getting is a Strange ~3* from 2000-3000 rpm, then clears up after 3K. Now again keep in mind im in Colorado so my 3.25" is about the same as a 3.4-3.5" at sea level, Im peaking ~8 PSI. And obviously i will be scanning/tuning on the dyno.

S

redzmonte wrote: As for KR i have some more tuning to work on. only KR im getting is a Strange ~3* from 2000-3000 rpm, then clears up after 3K. Now again keep in mind im in Colorado so my 3.25" is about the same as a 3.4-3.5" at sea level, Im peaking ~8 PSI. And obviously i will be scanning/tuning on the dyno.

S

Oh thats right! I remember that from another thread.

took a couple quick pics. As i expected I also did see about a 1-2psi increase over the stock airbox on the stock gauge. did a couple base line pulls as well. without any tuning its sitting at 229.68 HP. couldnt get a clean RPM signal so i couldnt get a TQ rating. It does seem to come into boost a tad quicker as well, feels smoother and definalty sounds sweet.

I was able to get away with only 1 tig weld on the pipe. and BTW i did order enough to make 2 if anyone might be interested. I need to install my puck mount and/or make a bracket there is a slight TAP when the motor rocks from the pipe moving. annoying is all, but easy to fix.

Looks like a pretty clean install, but if you're concerned about heat soak, then you should also get that engine cover off there! That heat soaks your supercharger a bit.

Use a grommet or some rubber to isolate the pipe from the hole in the uni-body, or you'll get false KR.

The plan was to get my puck mount on, add weather stripping (simmilar to hood cowl strip) around the opening and if it still bumps around then add a bracket with a rubber bushing to secure the lower half of the pipe. I did scan it and i don't see any false knock. can you help me understand how the knock sensor would see that as knock, the silicone couplers would assorb any vibration from the pipe shifting around, i would think..? The lower half of the pipe is ice cold and the upper half is only slightly warmer but still definalty cool after driving around town, so im happy with the results.

Also i did use the S10 tray and seems to work perfect to hold that PCM in place.

Ive always ran the cover on my cars, nevery really saw it as an issue.. Might strip the padding off the back of the cover to let a little more heat out.

S

redzmonte wrote:The plan was to get my puck mount on, add weather stripping (simmilar to hood cowl strip) around the opening and if it still bumps around then add a bracket with a rubber bushing to secure the lower half of the pipe. I did scan it and i don't see any false knock. can you help me understand how the knock sensor would see that as knock, the silicone couplers would assorb any vibration from the pipe shifting around, i would think..?

Also i did use the S10 tray and seems to work perfect to hold that PCM in place.

Ive always ran the cover on my cars, nevery really saw it as an issue.. Might strip the padding off the back of the cover to let a little more heat out.

The s10 tray is what comes in the INTENSE kit. And yeah lose the cover or the foam.

Just ditch the cover, it traps heat right where you don't want it. Plus it covers up your pretty supercharger!

If I had a blower I'd be showing it off!
But I can understand that you want to keep the cover on, in that case, just ditch the foam!

nos4blood70 wrote:
If I had a blower I'd be showing it off!
But I can understand that you want to keep the cover on, in that case, just ditch the foam!

I painted and defoamed mine, plus it's cut in half for STB clearance. I ONLY use it for shows, it comes off otherwise.

redzmonte wrote: I need to install my puck mount and/or make a bracket there is a slight TAP when the motor rocks from the pipe moving. annoying is all, but easy to fix.

I did get a temp fix, i used 2 big ass zip ties around the pipe to secure the it from knocking around untill the puck mount is in and or i add a bracket that bolts to the fender well.

Puck mount fixed the rattle. it was shot.

S

If you don't mind me asking, what size reducer are you using for the throttle body -to- coupler? And how did you mod for the IAT sensor?

Or you could always just do the Intense FWI kit, or piece your own together. You'll still need the S-10 late 90's PCM tray, Intense's throttle body adapter, and some of their hose.

Heres the main components to the system, get the PCM tray from a junkyard (it'll be far cheaper that way).
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/mer ... _Induction

http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/mer ... _Induction

Here's my set up, I run it like this year round without issue.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=23155

Bing wrote:Or you could always just do the Intense FWI kit, or piece your own together. You'll still need the S-10 late 90's PCM tray, Intense's throttle body adapter, and some of their hose.

Heres the main components to the system, get the PCM tray from a junkyard (it'll be far cheaper that way).
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/mer ... _Induction

http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/mer ... _Induction

Here's my set up, I run it like this year round without issue.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=23155

Thanks

I am using a 3 layer nylon reinforced silicone coupler 3.5" ID that fits on the pipe and streches over the TB, so no reducer needed. For the AIT i drilled a hole and installed a rubber gromment that the AITS just pushes into snuggly (you can see it in Pic #2). Its not under boost so it doesnt fall out or blow out. have used this on my intakes for years without issues. if it ever becomes an problem another gromment is $1.50 or you can run a AITS from a Syclone/Typhoon/89-90 Turbo GP that is threaded and screw it into the hole (this is what i have on the charge pipe my Turbo Monte Carlo)

Hope this helps,
Shane

A cheap way to connect the pipe to the TB is to get a rubber sleave from the plumbing supply section and fit it over the tb then use clamps to help hold it in place. I fit about half of it on the tb then used a screw driver to help fit it on.