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So i had a Spectre HAI. many people have had mixed emotions about this filter. Any were from good to bad to the UGLY. Here in this video i will try out the UGLY myth that the constricts air so much that the filter its self will hold water. Watch the video and let you decide how to interpret the results.

First things first: Some brands of ricer/tuner intakes are KNOWN to hold water due to testing by some members here. Spectre has been one of them, but who knows how many companies make them for Spectre, or how many different ways/materials/etc.

Second thing: He who buys his performance parts from the same place as an import tuner/ricer does can look in the mirror and find a fool with no money. That's the bottom line and the rule of thumb you should go by from now on.

I have come to realize this thus why i said to interpret it in your own way. I just made the video for fun. plus i got the filter from Orylies befor i knew the negative effects that i could cause. But yes i do see your point. Thus why iam waiting to get the intense FWI

You see where its leaking out? Around the crimp where the filter is sealed, proving that it's not even sealed well...

The spectre isn't the best, but it's certainly not as bad as it's been painted on this forum, atleast the one he has. That filter is as good (or bad) as a K&N in reality.

A decent filter on a pipe will definitely be better than any version of the OEM airbox. I made the original "rice pipe" in smellbird's garage, we put one of olblueeyesbonne's very used and questionable cone filters on it, and then drove 1000 miles to Toronto minutes later. Power and mileage both appreciably jumped on my N/A engine. After the trip, I had to put my OEM box on, as my K&N I ordered had not shown up yet, the car was noticeably down on power.

I disagree. After all the testing I've done, I'm of the belief (based on my data, do you remember the time I had all the temp sensors all under the hood and Katie taking data?) that any open cone under the hood is worse for performance than an OEM airbox due to IAT alone. As long as you're moving fast on a long trip it's fine, but the first time you slow down (daily city driving) and it heat soaks, you're in KR territory.

The FWI solves this problem, or a PROPERLY designed heat shield, but most members here don't have the time, money, or facilities to properly fabricate a custom heatshield that actually WORKS.

Go FWI or gut your stock box with a performance filter in it. If you want a hybrid, ditch the 'accordian tube' for smoother tubing. That's the worst part of the system in terms of turbulence and flow.

I will agree with Willwren on either putting in a FWI or gutting the box. I used the spectre for a while the as of today i gutted the box and sealed it up so very little hot air will get into it. After doing that you will def notice a difference in driving. Like many have said its not much but you do notice it. I simple gutted out the inside of the box and cut out the right side. then used heat resistant tubing and aluminum tape to create seal around the box. i left the ecu and its original cover on it (sealing it with tubing and tape) to create a cold air intake but yet leaving it hardly noticeable that it was modified. So even when in the cities or idling it will be drawing in air from outside of the car instead of the engine compartment.

willwren wrote:I disagree. After all the testing I've done, I'm of the belief (based on my data, do you remember the time I had all the temp sensors all under the hood and Katie taking data?) that any open cone under the hood is worse for performance than an OEM airbox due to IAT alone. As long as you're moving fast on a long trip it's fine, but the first time you slow down (daily city driving) and it heat soaks, you're in KR territory.

The FWI solves this problem, or a PROPERLY designed heat shield, but most members here don't have the time, money, or facilities to properly fabricate a custom heatshield that actually WORKS.

Go FWI or gut your stock box with a performance filter in it. If you want a hybrid, ditch the 'accordian tube' for smoother tubing. That's the worst part of the system in terms of turbulence and flow.

So the way my tires would break free very easily with the intake.... and then it wouldn't spin 'em with the OEM one unless I preloaded the transmission must be an anomaly? We had over 35mpg for much of the trip, on a filter that realistically belonged in the garbage. The airbox on the series 1 models is heineously restrictive with the offset entrances/exits to the filter. A filter where perhaps 1/6th of the surface area is actually being used.

Making an airbox is as easy as cutting some plexiglass and fastening it, or pulling out a heatgun and molding it into whatever shape one desires. The airfilter area of a 92-99 isn't terrible, and it's fed fairly directly from the lower bumper openings.

Does a FWI pull cooler air? Yes. But it is more exposed.

BonneMe wrote:The spectre isn't the best, but it's certainly not as bad as it's been painted on this forum, atleast the one he has. That filter is as good (or bad) as a K&N in reality.

This. The metal holding the filter element is junk and will rust, only downside I see on the Spectre.

HAI>FWI

If your gung-ho on iats and knock, you pmc retards/adv. spark via temp. If your knocking you need more supporting mods, otherwise its a mechanical issue.

BonneMe wrote:

willwren wrote:I disagree. After all the testing I've done, I'm of the belief (based on my data, do you remember the time I had all the temp sensors all under the hood and Katie taking data?) that any open cone under the hood is worse for performance than an OEM airbox due to IAT alone. As long as you're moving fast on a long trip it's fine, but the first time you slow down (daily city driving) and it heat soaks, you're in KR territory.

The FWI solves this problem, or a PROPERLY designed heat shield, but most members here don't have the time, money, or facilities to properly fabricate a custom heatshield that actually WORKS.

Go FWI or gut your stock box with a performance filter in it. If you want a hybrid, ditch the 'accordian tube' for smoother tubing. That's the worst part of the system in terms of turbulence and flow.

So the way my tires would break free very easily with the intake.... and then it wouldn't spin 'em with the OEM one unless I preloaded the transmission must be an anomaly? We had over 35mpg for much of the trip, on a filter that realistically belonged in the garbage. The airbox on the series 1 models is heineously restrictive with the offset entrances/exits to the filter. A filter where perhaps 1/6th of the surface area is actually being used.

Making an airbox is as easy as cutting some plexiglass and fastening it, or pulling out a heatgun and molding it into whatever shape one desires. The airfilter area of a 92-99 isn't terrible, and it's fed fairly directly from the lower bumper openings.

Does a FWI pull cooler air? Yes. But it is more exposed.

Jason, there isn't an intake on this forum that can make the difference between breaking them loose or not. You had some other factor working for you. Whether it was temperature, humidity, fuel, a sensor twitch, the placebo effect, or anything else. Even the placement of your IAT if it changed.

But no 5hp improvement on any L27 ever made the difference in breaking the tires loose. Your horsepower was varying more than that from morning to afternoon just due to temperatures alone.

And the more exposed filter on an FWI never caused anyone any problems.

willwren wrote:

BonneMe wrote:

willwren wrote:I disagree. After all the testing I've done, I'm of the belief (based on my data, do you remember the time I had all the temp sensors all under the hood and Katie taking data?) that any open cone under the hood is worse for performance than an OEM airbox due to IAT alone. As long as you're moving fast on a long trip it's fine, but the first time you slow down (daily city driving) and it heat soaks, you're in KR territory.

The FWI solves this problem, or a PROPERLY designed heat shield, but most members here don't have the time, money, or facilities to properly fabricate a custom heatshield that actually WORKS.

Go FWI or gut your stock box with a performance filter in it. If you want a hybrid, ditch the 'accordian tube' for smoother tubing. That's the worst part of the system in terms of turbulence and flow.

So the way my tires would break free very easily with the intake.... and then it wouldn't spin 'em with the OEM one unless I preloaded the transmission must be an anomaly? We had over 35mpg for much of the trip, on a filter that realistically belonged in the garbage. The airbox on the series 1 models is heineously restrictive with the offset entrances/exits to the filter. A filter where perhaps 1/6th of the surface area is actually being used.

Making an airbox is as easy as cutting some plexiglass and fastening it, or pulling out a heatgun and molding it into whatever shape one desires. The airfilter area of a 92-99 isn't terrible, and it's fed fairly directly from the lower bumper openings.

Does a FWI pull cooler air? Yes. But it is more exposed.

Jason, there isn't an intake on this forum that can make the difference between breaking them loose or not. You had some other factor working for you. Whether it was temperature, humidity, fuel, a sensor twitch, the placebo effect, or anything else. Even the placement of your IAT if it changed.

But no 5hp improvement on any L27 ever made the difference in breaking the tires loose. Your horsepower was varying more than that from morning to afternoon just due to temperatures alone.

And the more exposed filter on an FWI never caused anyone any problems.

My experience has been that road surface and the temperature of that surface made a major difference on wheel spin or not. A few degrees made a difference. - BC

Based on tire compound, you bet. I see that every year. The difference between the 3 cars is remarkable based on temperature. The Zilla loses all traction when the road temperature hits about 40-45°F. Wet or dry doesn't matter. I either let air out at that time or garage it for the rest of the season. SLEeper hits the same zone at 25-30°, but is really good in snow considering that.

The Buick can go all year, but those are true all-seasons.

Too hot can do the exact same thing depending on compound.

There are worse things you can put on your car , K&N for example.

Sadden wrote:There are worse things you can put on your car , K&N for example.

K&Ns are great. The only time they suck is when owners fail to oil them or use too much.

Sadden wrote:There are worse things you can put on your car , K&N for example.

Yeah had multiple multiple friends and people I have known use K&N...no problems whatsoever.

What claims do you have to say they are worse?

Every product has it's haters. I've used K&N's longer than most members here have been alive. Properly cared for, they are a great product that lives up to expectations and claims. They are used in almost every type of professional racing for a reason.

I can't remember how far back it was, but somebody here posted up test results from an independent review that showed K&N oiled filters as letting through more and larger particles than a lot of other filters. They're good, but they're not the best.

Also, usage in professional racing is a bad way to judge performance, because almost every part on a high-level pro car is provided by sponsors.

So Brian, what size particle will kill an engine? What type of particle? What's the limit? Filtering smaller particles restricts more air flow, so where's the cut-off?

K&N's have been around for YEARS and haven't been blamed for killing an engine yet. People should simply stop crying wolf. If they weren't worth it, they wouldn't still be in business with the reputation they have.

The people that cry wolf probably haven't been using them for as long as some of us. And I've never had a problem with them in a good dozen vehicles over almost 30 years of driving my own vehicles.

Over-sensitive much? Did I cry wolf? Did I say K&N weren't good filters? Did I say "DON'T BUY K&N, THEY'RE GARBAGE THAT KILLS ENGINES!!!!"? No, I said that there are better filters available. Does that merit snapping my head off?

Nobody's snapping anyone's head off. I'm actually chuckling here. Not at all, I was just trying to get someone to actually post up some definitive answers. We hear the same thing over and over, that this one is better than that one because of whatever, but nobody has ever posted any concrete data on what effect those specifications have on the hardware under the hood.

My point is that nobody can. If Amsoil filters a smaller particle, great, but what do those slightly LARGER particles actually do? Nobody has ever produced any evidence of premature engine wear to go along with that.

Hey Brian......











Too much turkey and gravy?