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I replaced the rear shocks 2 weeks ago and since then it seams like the rear of the car is slipping, drifting around or not tracking the front end at highway speeds particularly if I hit a spot that lifts the some of the weight off the rear. It feels pretty squirrely for that split second then everything is normal until the next bump. I’m wondering if the rear trailing arms might need replacing. The rubber boot on the end of the trailing arm that connects to the control arm is cracking, but I’m not finding say slack like I would with a tie rod. How do you check the trailing arm or is there something else that might need replacing?

Have you had an alignment recently? If not, a good 4 wheel alignment may solve your issue. Is the back end of the car riding higher than normal?

The ride height seam about normal while stationary, however it has been while since I’ve had an alignment. I don’t know if it is related to my current problem or not, but for a long time I’ve thought that I was hearing the fuel pump running back there, but it was the air pump. It use to cycle on and off so I thought it was the fuel pump, but I replaced the fuel pump and that was when I found it was the air pump that I’d been hearing all along. The pump is pretty noisy so I took it out and lubed it per one of the club members post, but it’s still really loud when it runs. Could it be that it’s not airing up the shocks to the proper ride height when it’s going down the highway?

I had the same problem, with a clunking in rear. I replaced the rear shocks and mounts. That didn't fix my problem. Then replaced the 2 trailing arms and aligned, it drives like a new car, and no clunk. There was a small amount of slop in both tie rod end joints that was hard to detect while they on the car.

If the system has a problem, it would be at all speeds, not just the highway. If you want to test the system, remove the driver's side rear tire. Pop the arm from the ride height sensor off the control arm. Push the rod for the sensor up. It should start to fill the shocks. Pulling it down should vent air out. In the middle, it should do nothing.

Sounds a lot like the problem me and a couple other club members have had recently. It is worn out bushings on your rear control arms and tie rods (aka trailing links aka upper control arms aka lateral links). Replace the control arm bushings instead of the whole control arms, but replace the entire link assemblies. I was able to get the parts recently for $145 total. Wouldn't hurt to replace your rear stabilizer bar end links while you're in there too; that adds maybe another $15-$20 for parts.

You can get more info in this thread: http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 18&t=28939

Club members have been able to do the work themselves, but I would consider this a little advanced and thusly will be taking mine in to a shop. It all depends upon your level of skill.

Ken_W

Well Ken, after reading you post that you were having the same problem that I am currently experiencing. Did you end up using the after market bushings?

I am still waiting on my Raybestos rear links (tie rods) to arrive, then will take it in to my mechanic. Should be done by the end of this week. I'll be installing the Mevotech bushings, which is what Quicksilver used. (You can use Search to read his thread.) They are working fine for him so far.

Ken_W

I ended up getting the replacement control arms and trailing arms from harofreak. they should be here this coming Monday. It ought to be a quick swap out. I'm on a really tight budget right now and can't really afford the mechanic approch right now

Let us know how it goes.

Ken_W

Sorry to take so long in replying. She’s my daily driver. First I had access to a lift only to find out that the only way to change to rear control arms was to drop the rear frame for access to the control arm bolts and I had to have her back together that afternoon, so I decided to try just changing the trailing arms out first and see what happened. I had to loosen the back half of the rear frame and could just barely get out the upper trailing arm bolts. After replacing the trailing arms I took it for an alignment. She just barely aligned out on the right rear. The camber was just with in the spec. She drives out better, but the problem remains, just not as bad. The people that did the alignment said that if I could find shims that that would be an option to changing the control arm out. Now to find the shims.