Give people a little time to respond. Things have been a little slower on the forums the last couple years, and the west coast meet is in progress, so some of the regulars may be MIA.
kemicala wrote:i know round speakers are a little more accurate that oval, ie 6x9 speakers.
I think this has to be based on myth and you can safely disregard it. I don't know how you "know" this, it might be from experience of some oval speakers of lesser quality than some round speakers you've experienced, but from an engineering perspective, it isn't exactly challenging to build a high quality acoustic reproducer with oval shape, or for that matter, much different than designing a round one. But triangles, -now there you've got a challenge.
When you consider the reality that there are excellent 6" x 9" oval speakers available at pretty much every possible price point, I think you're just causing yourself more trouble than it's worth for a bogus reason. By all means: If you just WANT to stuff 6.5" round speakers in a 6" x 9" oval hole, GO FOR IT, be happy, and enjoy your round speakers. -But you could just buy a decent 6" x 9" oval speaker that fits to begin with.
You can just choose a good quality 6" x 9" 2-way or 3-way speaker and leave your component tweeter location empty. I know it's tempting to fill it, but we won't hunt you down if you don't. If you still want to do components, you can find some 6" x 9" components by MB Quart and Eclipse and possibly others. You could also buy a coaxial 6" x 9" 2-way and just clip the wires to the tweeter and use it for a bass component, and still mount a tweeter in your separate tweeter mounting spot. Frankly, I'd do that before I'd try to stuff a round speaker in an oval hole.
In general, the soundstage of your front speakers is more important to your listening position, so many people with upgraded stereos in the Bonnevilles don't even use rear speakers, so consider that before you spend a large chunk of your audio budget on rear speakers. I think your money would be better spent on an after market head unit. If you go through with your plan to keep the stock EQ head unit and spend your money on high quality component front and rear speakers with 4 channels of outboard amplification, I think you're ultimately going to be disappointed in the sound. You'll need to use the speaker levels out of the stock head unit to drive the amp (easy enough as many amps have speaker level inputs), but people who have done that here frequently complain of high pitched whining noise interference in their sound, which is pretty common with that type of setup, usually picked up from the alternator. Not everyone has a problem with it, so feel free to try it, but our goal is to give you the best advice we can. My advice is to prioritize your spending [in order] on:
-front speakers
-head unit
-amp
-sub
-rear speakers
I order them that way because I think that order makes the most difference to your sound.
-Front speakers will have the greatest impact on changing and improving your sound, whether you feed them with a stock head unit or an aftermarket deck and amplifier.
-Head units are (generally) acoustically transparent. What you're buying is features: line outputs for front, rear, and subs; ipod and USB connectivity; CD/DVD/mp3 compatibility; tone controls, and that sort of thing.
-An amp will give you more undistorted gain than you can get out of a head unit alone, but you have to have a head unit to drive it first, so I place a head unit before this. An amp is essential to drive a sub.
-And so you can get a sub after you have an amp to drive it.
-Finally, rear speakers fill those holes in the rear deck.
But again, these are guidelines. If you have the time and the money, feel free to experiment with putting 6.5" round speakers in back, you might come up with something you really like. I'm sure people have done it before, too, so if you're lucky you might be able to find someone who has done it and see how they like it.