PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

What is the best location for the IAT sensor?
Closest to the TB or at near the air filter?

I'm replacing the stock accordian tubing with custom tubing for better laminar flow. The tubing does not have a hole for the IAT. My choices are:

a) cut a hole in the tubing just big enough for the sensor and use high temp silicone for a proper seal (use current factory location)
b) buy the 24" extension cable and mount the IAT in the CAI (20$)
c) buy a custom adapter from intense that has a hole pre-molded (located about 1" from TB)

according to Intense, the stock location is the best. The pcm is programmed for the sensor at that location. It compensates for the higher temp reading internally. You could actually have problems moving it, because it will screw the pcm up with "wrong" temps.

I found this article:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/IAT_sensor.html

Wondering if others who have relocated their IAT have had any problems.

I've moved mine around with mixed results. Based on that, I'd suggest moving it to the 'coldest' location possible and let the PCM adapt.

Why?

To prevent the body of the sensor from heatsoaking and affecting your readings long-term. A cooler sensor will give more consistent short-term readings, and allow the PCM to adapt more quickly.

Moving to Performance. This isn't a Forced Induction topic.

I ordered my 24" IAT extension over the weekend.
I'll be drilling a hole and re-locating it in the CAI box (fender side).

You could have just cut and spliced the original wires and extended, be sure to to post pics

Just installed the 4" tubing (custom) and re-located the IAT sensor in the CAI (cut a 1/2" hole in the fender side of the CAI).
Took it for a test drive... I'm very happy with the results!!! I'll post pics soon as I can.

EDIT: Had to use jig saw to cut bigger opening in the CAI. (thinking about putting temperature control foil on the inside of CAI....)

As promised! :-)





EDIT: I put a little white silicone around the IAT to keep it from moving around.

I assume you mean 3.5" tubing?

Nope. 4.0" I.D.

willwren wrote:I assume you mean 3.5" tubing?

99 L67 there bud

4" ID?

Way overkill, and it's hurting performance. 3.5" INTENSE tubing is the size of choice for a very well-tested and calculated reason.

You may seriously consider dropping that down to 3.5" to produce more laminar flow and velocity.

Is the TB 4"?? I didn't think they were, and to me, it looks like it is directly on the TB.

I did not see any degradation in performance. It definitely performs better than the stock tubing, though I could not test between the 3.5 and the 4.0 because the 3.5 would not fit over the lip on the TB edge. The opening on the TB is 3.5" however, the lip is about 3.75". Using the 4" tubing, this leaves a .25" gap, however, I used the stock accordion and cut it down to just the ring that fits over the TB lip. I shaved it down enough so the 4" tubing fit over the ring while it was on the TB, then clamped it down for a tight fit.

(side note: installed my scan gauge last night and saw the estimated net horsepower hit 264, 9.5 psi boost, 0.0 KR.)

Your installation method creates a 'step' at the TB opening which is bad for laminar flow.

I suggest getting a coupler and trying 3.5" like the rest of us do (INTENSE runs all their high-performance cars on 3.5" for this very reason).

The coupler offered by Intense was $50 + (3) $10 clamps = $80 + shipping.
http://intense-racing.com/pics/fwi/fwi_ ... _large.jpg

I paid = $0

In addition, the Intense coupler puts the IAT right next to the TB, which is bad because of heat soaking.
((doesn't want to be like everyone else))

You don't have to use the INTENSE coupler, and you don't have to put the IAT there (I didn't).

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/

Don't feel bad for being like everyone else. INTENSE made the dimensions that way for a very well-proven reason. Too big is just as bad as too small.

Where can I find these "very well-proven reasons?"

http://www.intense-racing.com/inno.shtml

And every record they broke with that 3.5" FWI installed. Including more recent records not shown on that page.

That's great info.....however, that doesn't answer the question:
Where can I see "very well-proven reasons" why the 3.5" ID tubing is better than the 4.0" ID tubing?