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This is pretty much an academic question at this point, because I think this is going to be a shop job,

I've pretty much given up on getting the forward O2 sensor out of my 2004 4.0 Ford Ranger. Has only about 26K on it.

The question is: What's the success percentage you members have had in getting old sensors out?

I soaked it a day in penetrating oil. I purchased the special heavy 7/8 inch slotted socket you need. It had a nice tight fit. I used an extension pipe to get about 2 feet of leverage. Used a hammer on the torqued 3/8 inch breaker bar to try to break the rust.

All I succeeded in doing was to cause the socket to slip on the O2 flats.

I know there are more extreme methods like flaming the sensor to orange and twisting on the cool-down, using a cold chisel on the sensor flats, and tapping the actual sensor itself with a hammer. I worry about damaging the threads in the exhaust pipe, and the truck is just too nice to do a lot of beating on it (I think).


Anyway, I'm curious--what kind of successes (and failures ) have the rest of you had with O2 sensor removal?

Thanks! slug

I have a 100% success rate, lol. Can you get a 7/8 inch wrench on it?

100% success also.

Heat up the exhaust by running the truck for a few minutes. Cut the wire off the o2, slip a 22m or 7/8 open end wrench on it and give her hell. That slotted socket just isn't strong enough.

Was a 10 minute job on the series 1 L67. I spent more time rummaging through dad's stash of tools than actual removal time.

On an old 91 Civic hatchback I had, NOTHING worked at all including a torch. Wound up having to take an angle grinder and cut the sensor in half in order to fit a 6-point socket and ratchet/breaker bar.

Thanks Andrew and "Beast"......

Yeah, that slotted socket just doesn't seem to hold up. Maybe I have a long 7/8 impact socket and will give this one more try. I like the idea of heating up the sensor with the engine rather than with a torch. Kind of hate to clip the wires, but the code is showing a bank 1 O2 failure, so.......

(Hey, I wonder if they're still talking about your award-winning pie contest at Hooter's, Andrew. You did us proud )

Quote: Wound up having to take an angle grinder and cut the sensor in half in order to fit a 6-point socket and ratchet/breaker bar. [/quote]

Thanks! Again it sounds like getting a solid socket on the sensor is the key. Hm.........

I had a heck of a time removing the one on our 01 Odyssey. I ended up cutting the wire and using a solid deep well socket. It finally broke loose with a 3/4" breaking bar. If that wouldn't have worked (meaning if the socket would have slipped) I was prepared to use a set of vise-grips and clamp down as hard as possible on the body of the sensor, then tap on the handle of the vise grips with a mini-sledge. 210K really had that sucker set in place.

You might want to consider trying the vise grip method if everything else is slipping.

Get the exhaust warm and soak it in PB Blaster. Then give it heck with your socket.

If you're using WD-40, that's a big part of your problem. WD-40 isn't a penetrant, it's a protectant/water displacer.

Ok, thanks for all the tips!

In looking for my best and strongest tools, I realize they're still at my cottage where I used to live in northern Michigan. The stuff I've got here is going to break or slip because it's not Craftsman or better quality.

So, I guess the shop will get this one--sometimes it takes them even an hour and a half to get them out. But what my guy said was he can get and easily weld a special ring with threads on the exhaust pipe next to the old sensor if the old one is stuck too bad. Just takes a few minutes.

But my '98 Bonneville is flashing the same problem intermittently, so I will round up my tools and give a go on it's sensor later, using your tips above and better tools.

Hate to give up on something, but the '94 Bonneville needs my attention too (on top, I hope). And I am getting too old and creaky to spend too many hours underneath too many vehicles (not to mention all the "refreshments" that kind of work requires ). Also, I'm watching the fuel needle drop on the Ford much faster than before.

Sensor removal could make a good "tech info" article sometime. But then I already owe Archon some pics and info on doing front brakes for same (unless he got it done already--have to check).

Thanks all!

I have in the past found ways to get my Impact on the O2.... Yes it was that bad... In other cases we cut the O2 down and used a 1/2" extension and 1/2 ratchet with a breaker bar attached... when you hear the POW you thought you broke it... Some are really a nightmare to remove...

Another piece of advice - don't cheap out on your slotted O2 sensor socket if you end up getting one. It doesn't take much oomph to expand that slot on the low-grade stuff and do some damage.

We removed the original sensor from my brother's 300,000+ mile 92 by spraying it with penetrant, idling for several minutes, turning it off, then spraying again after a few minutes. 20 minutes later, it came off just like it should.

Ok, just a final update, and then I'll let this one go,

Thanks, members, for the additional input since my last reply!

I did finally bring the truck in to my neighborhood mechanic. He's quite good, and actually didn't charge me much more than what the sensor would have cost me without labor. He always puts in better than low-end parts, although I don't know what it actually was (OEM he said). I just got tired of lying cramped on the cold garage floor with limited access and not having my best tools right at hand (like my 1/2 inch breaker/socket set)

My mechanic indicated that heat was the key to getting it out. He didn't have to weld on a fresh threaded ring. My check engine light is staying off now and my fuel guage needle seems not to be falling quite so fast .

My conclusions are from what everyone has said is that heat and big quality tools with lots of leverage or power are the common elements in getting O2 sensors out. Also, that it isn't always a very fun job unless you have a fairly high thresh-hold for pain and grief.

I agree about not using the slotted socket for removal. It's only use would be for putting the new sensor back in!

Thanks again! slug

I have had Major fights with O2's... I have resorted to heat, cutting the end off and using an impact socket and a mean impact to get them out... Most of the time on the 3800's tho, its not that bad...Happens to all of them from time to time tho...

the O2 on my S10 was deader than a doornail. It was reading 450 mVall the time. it made a nice exhaust plug