PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

The more I drive the bonne, the more I realize how heavy it is and how poorly it stops

Or maybe Im just looking to buy more stuff for it.. Either way, I really would like to throw some nice brakes on here.. Do the bigger companies ( Brembo, Willwood etc ) do rotors for us, or are we gonna have to look elsewhere , ( like almost everything for the bonnevilles )

??

http://www.jcwhitney.com/centric-sports ... 824y2000j1

I know wilwood doesn't. The only bolt-on upgrade would be to GXP calipers and brackets with the 12.9" rotors. I have EBC Ultimax Rotors and Red Stuff Pads all around on my car. I definitely would recommend the rotors, but not the pads. Powerslot makes good rotors as well, but only fronts. You'll be surprised how much better it stops with a properly bedded in set of pads and rotors and a good set of tires, even in the stock size.

00Beast wrote:I know wilwood doesn't. The only bolt-on upgrade would be to GXP calipers and brackets with the 12.9" rotors. I have EBC Ultimax Rotors and Red Stuff Pads all around on my car. I definitely would recommend the rotors, but not the pads. Powerslot makes good rotors as well, but only fronts. You'll be surprised how much better it stops with a properly bedded in set of pads and rotors and a good set of tires, even in the stock size.

Yea I was just checking out ZZP as well..

This kit came to mind , adding dual pistons, and a 13" slotted centric rotor. for 599

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix ... &catid=138

I wouldnt mind the stock size, but with all the fast stop and go I do , I think I might need a little more..?? I dont wanna go crazy with brakes.. But I was thinking maybe 600-700 for all 4 with calipers ( dual piston preferably ) and pads

Honestly, I feel my car stops the same with stock brakes as our GXP stops with stock brakes (Both with new parts and good tires). Not worth it for the little you will gain. You will be far better off replacing with high quality parts and completely bleeding your lines with a good brake fluid. That will gain more pedal feel and better performance.

Also, if you're stranded anywhere, the SSEi parts are common as hell. GXP parts are a lot harder to find, and more expensive, especially calipers.

There are no upgrades for the rear besides GXP brackets and larger rotors, as well as slotted rotors. Refer to above. Don't fix what isn't broken.

So your saying stay with the stock calipers and just do a good set of pads and rotors? But keep the stock size? I will for sure bleed everything out and run some good fluid in there but I really don't like how mine stops. I mean the brakes aren't spongy or pulsating, it's just IMO the car is to heavy for what's on there and the current brakes have 4000 miles on them. Mostly highway.

Do we use the same rotors as the grand prixs? ( doubtful )

Are the slotted Rotors I linked above ( jcwhitney link ) good enough @ $70 a side?

No, we have 12" rotors. I have no experience w/ "Centric" rotors. I have had great luck with NAPA Ultra Premium Parts (on the GXP), and my EBC Rotors seem great.

What I have on my SSEi: http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3 ... 51496.aspx

Keeping the stock calipers locks you into the same size, as there is only one bracket style. You'd have to have different brackets to make a larger rotor work. All a larger rotor does on these cars is adds cooling surface area, which, unless you're doing serious road-racing, you will never heat the rotor up enough to make a difference.

Your rotors do look really nice. And pretty reasonable @ about $300 for all four.

I usually just get whatever ceramic pads oriellys has, usually about $40. Are there any differences or are ceramic pads all the same anyways

Www.rotorwork.com

That's where I got my rotors. Don't get pads there they suck. I have slotted rotors with wagner ceramic pads and it works pretty dang good if you ask me

I am running Powerslot rotors and Hawk ceramic pads on all 4. Had the fluid changed at the dealer and I love the way it stops.

Have you had the fluid changed?

You will be surprised how much fresh fluid will make a difference. Also, due to the ABS system, you need to make sure the ABS is activated to bleed through the pump. When a dealer does it, they use the tech II to activate the pump while bleeding. There is also the other way..............finding a place to brake hard to activate the ABS and then do another bleed.

I hadn't heard of having to activate the ABS when bleeding?


I recall seeing Brembo made rotors for us but they are expensive as hell. I went with PowerSlot rotors up front and EBC Ultimax rotors in the rear because I couldn't find PowerSlots for the rear. Paired with Napa premium ceramic pads. On the '93 I repeatedly warped the Napa rotors, but they were free to replace so I never bothered getting something else. When I bought the '01 the rotors were already slightly warped. So I decided to spend the money on it and get something good. I even tried to warp the PowerSlots and couldn't. They are warped now though, but that's because I didn't re lubricate the slider pins on the calipers properly and the top one on both sides seized and warped them as well as wore the pads diagonally. The PowerSlots have a 3 year warranty so I can still replace them but we have to send the old rotors in before getting a replacement so the car will have to sit and I'll have to find something else to drive for about a week.

i agree that these car do not stop the best. whenever jumping into the Lacrosse, i almost go through the windshield, when i hit the brakes. they are really sensitive and the Lacrosse weighs close to 4,000 pounds.

Sounds like you guys both need brake-jobs. My brakes can make the blood rush to my head if I slam on them.

00Beast wrote:Sounds like you guys both need brake-jobs. My brakes can make the blood rush to my head if I slam on them.

thats why this thread is here.. Im sure Ill be good with some new rotors pads, and a system bleed.. Like I have said many times, the guy who had this car before me was a dirtball, and Either put the cheapet stuff on the car as possible, or just the bare minimum to get by.. That was apparent when he was dumping 3 gallons of water in it everyday instead of wondering WHY hes going through 3 gallons of water ..

WhiteArrow3800 wrote:I hadn't heard of having to activate the ABS when bleeding?

After doing the normal pressure bleed proceedure, my 2k FSM has the Automated Bleed proceedure on page 5-275.

2000 FSM wrote: The proceedure cycles the system valves and runs the pump in order to purge the air from the secondary circuits normally closed off during non ABS/TCS mode operation and bleeding.

So if there is air in there, the first time it is activated, it pumps a bunch of air into the primary system.

After replacing all my pads and rotors, I had this done at the dealer where they flushed 2 qts of fluid through the system. As Ed said, I can step on my brakes and the car stops pretty quick. This also removes any moisture and bad fluid from the entire system.

I plan on having a full Tech II flush done @ my dealer this winter, along with replacing the SWPS. My brakes have a little sponge in them yet, due to old fluid.

I'm thinking of getting the EBC rotors 00Beast posted. Along with AutoZone's super-premium pad (DuraLast Gold Cmax Ceramic), new rubber hoses and new fluid, it should stop well this winter. Being confident enough to slam the brakes hard enough to hurt will be a good feeling.

Edit: Purchased the EBC's. $170. Hope it's worth it. Trying to warranty the AZ pads in a few weeks since they're chirping.

All this will go on over the Thanksgiving holidays. When my time is free...

Can't do that without major work on a 92-99.
=
For your guys with 00+ cars, that along with premium rotors/pads sounds killer.