PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Hey fellas just thought id let you guys know the status on the engine/trans rebuild for my Olds.

After a long weekend, the engine is assembled and installed along with the new transmission.

Engine Details:

-.020 over pistons
- intense stage 1x cam
- corvette valve springs and retainers
- balance shaft removed and oil hole plugged.
- all new bearings, oil pump, timing chain, gaskets and seals.
- EGR ports capped and EGR removed.
- ported lower intake and front exhaust manifold.

Intense custom pcm

- 3 degrees timing advance at WOT
- evap, egr and post cat 02 codes removed
- 180 degree fan turnon to match coolant thermostat
- higher shift points (6200-6300)
- no more governer
Transmission

- 3100 rpm stall converter
- pressure turned up
- complete rebuild
- updates done to valvebody (similar to transgo shiftkit)


already i notice a difference in performance. the engine has a nice lope to it and it has a really cool tone under load. From what im told there is no break in procedure for the cam like there is in an older engine. i have been taking it (kinda) easy on it and, as the machine shop recommended, no synthetics for 500 miles until the rings are properly broken in.

Let me hear your thoughts guys!

You NEED headers to flow that cam. Your PEM's aren't cutting it. Also, unless you drove to Intense and had them tune your car, you're not making full power. Get the engine and trans broken-in over the next 1k, and then find someone with a tuner to make full use of that bore and cam. Why did you delete the balance shaft? So you could run a double roller chain? For a DD, this might be a decision you regret, but everyone has their own tastes. I also think blocking the EGR will hurt you too. EGR helps keep combustion temps down on these cars, and as long as you use the proper sleeved UIM you shouldn't have any issues with the UIM failures.

what headers do you recommend??? im having a hard time feeling the 800$ price tag of the ones ive seen so far. going down the road.....the engine is smooth as ever. at idle is the only place where it will bump a little. i dont see much of a loss by chucking the balance shaft. according to the machine shop "the balance shaft is to give it some grandma-ride smoothness, extra weight to turn, more oil going to non-essential moving parts."

As for the EGR....the egr can in theory make the fuel burn more complete and lower EGTs, but similar things can be done when advancing the timing and using 93 octane....so im told.

we will get her there!

I've heard mixed reviews on the cheap e-bay headers. If you're willing to put in a little work to make something work just right, those are probably the way to go.

Idle is mainly where the balance shaft is the most noticeable. It's more about the fact that a 90° V6 has inherent harmonics due to the uneven firing order and the balance shaft helps increase longevity by canceling those out.

i found these headers:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-08-Pa ... ccessories

Let me know what you think... do i really need ceramic?

After all the troubles I've had with mine, I'd never buy Pacesetters again.

what types of problems do you have??? i feel like the headers will do so much to bring out the new motor and then i can have a good tune done. chicago to intense racing.....road trip???? I dont know anyone locally that tunes these cars or even wants to. i will say even though im trying to take it easy on the new engine.....the tires dont seem to like the new found response and power. Anything else i need to be doing to pull power from an N/A?

leaks, leaks, leaks.

Sinister Performance in the Chicago area can tune your car.

I am running the Pacesetters. I have not used any others, but I don't have a problem with mine. I had issues with getting the right parts, but as for the leaks, I welded my y-pipe to the rear header and they are using the Acu-seal clamps and I haven't had any leaks.

I paid $500 for mine and I bought them through a contact that works for Pacesetter.

Just rolled over 300 miles on the new engine yesterday.

Runs like a champ and the oil had no visible metal shavings in it. i did a check over on all the fluids and made sure there were no leaks. Im going to change the oil again at about 600 miles and switch over to synthetic. Im still shopping for headers/cat/downpipe and a tune. Maybe a christmas present to myself. the car is so much more responsive than it was before . Im curious what the dyno numbers will be once the rest of this work is done. I do want to insulate the intake and throttle body from the crossover pipe tho.... It seems like after i let the car sit after running the intake gets very warm and i can feel a slight loss in performance.

ZZP sells a plate for that isolation, but you can do the same with some 1/8 steel and a welder, or even a drill and some rivets or bolts.