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On the 96, when I go to start it sometimes, the security light comes on and it wont start. If I give it a few minutes, the light goes away and then it starts. Is this a sign of the VATS failing?

haro1225 wrote:On the 96, when I go to start it sometimes, the security light comes on and it wont start. If I give it a few minutes, the light goes away and then it starts. Is this a sign of the VATS failing?

Is the light flashing? The procedure is insert key, turn to ON, TDM reads the resistance in the key chip circuit, if it's right the light goes off. If it's wrong the light flashes for 3 minutes and cranking and injectors are turned off. At the end of 3 minutes, the TDM is ready for another reading of resistance for new key or the old dirty one, etc.

If the VATS is active, the starter does NOT work.

Does the car crank?

I have heard that VATS disables the starter and fuel pump for up to ten minutes, but not sure exactly how long. Also, from what I found when I had VATS issues with my old Monte Carlo, if you try to crank it again within the dead time, it resets the timer, even if the correct resistance is read.

What Ryan described is exactly how my 2000 cavalier used to work. I'm not sure exactly how the security acts on pre-2000 models though. At any rate, the source of your problem could be as simple as dirty contacts on the key chip and in the lock cylinder.

mntnbkr wrote: At any rate, the source of your problem could be as simple as dirty contacts on the key chip and in the lock cylinder.

Try cleaning the contacts on either side of the key with some rubbing alcohol and a q-tip or a pencil eraser, some have found that this cleans them up good and allows for better contact with the contacts inside the key cylinder.

The light doesn't flash, and when the light is on it won't crank. I am going to try cleaning the contacts on it and see if it happens again.

haro1225 wrote:The light doesn't flash, and when the light is on it won't crank. I am going to try cleaning the contacts on it and see if it happens again.

It sounds like the TDM goes into one of its 4 failure modes. I don't have a 96 service manual. I have a 98.

I cleaned the key, but it did it again today. And I noticed just a few minutes ago when I went out, that the security light came on while I was driving. Never seen that happen before on either of my cars.

http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

That's the url given to me to bypass the vats in my 94. In my case it was the starter enable relay. Since your security light as flickering I don't think it's a relay.

haro1225 wrote:I cleaned the key, but it did it again today. And I noticed just a few minutes ago when I went out, that the security light came on while I was driving. Never seen that happen before on either of my cars.

That light coming on while driving indicates the resistance read by the TDM has changed outside the 10% or so error allowed. Hopefully, the TDM will decide because of the wires breaking filaments where the tilt wheel breaks them or the key contacts rubbing the key have worn so they don't touch correctly that it is incorrectly doing something and fail in the bypass mode where it doesn't block the start operation.

If it's going on and off while driving, it won't be long till it decides.

I forgot to add that the car had a remote start on it at one time, but I looked under the steering column and it looks like that orange wire they show in the link has been cut. I'm not sure how that could make a difference.

When you say the orange wire has been cut, does that mean that it is currently in two pieces, or has it been re-connected? If it's currently in two pieces, then the VATS has been bypassed. In that case, your problem is in the resistor pack that the previous owner (or install shop) made.

If the wires are spliced back together, then the splice would be the first place that I would check for a poor connection.

The wire just ends and I don't even see the other end of it.

So, I assume that what you're seeing is the end of the orange wire coming FROM the ignition cylinder. You most definately have the VATS bypassed, which means that you can forget pretty much everything that was posted previously except for the link that spoiledred94 posted.

The resistor pack is likely the culprit here. You'll have to try to find the other end of that orange wire (which is actually two white wires in an orange sheath) in order to check things out. If I were you, I'd use the instructions in the link above to build a new resistor pack and wire it in. Alternatively, you could reconnect the two ends of the orange wire and your VATS would (hopefully) be functional again.

Another point I am not sure has been mentioned here or in the link. You can measure your keys resistance and then look for that resistance at the orange covered white wires coming from steering column side when the key is in the ignition. See what I mean?... If your ignition switch is reading your key right then that resistance should be present at the wires under the dash.

Yeah, he can do that, but the ignition cylinder is no longer part of the VATS circuit, so it really doesn't matter of the resistance it there or not.

At this point you may wish to look and find out where the remote start is actually located, unless they put the resistor pack near the vats module itself. Is that still on the passenger side firewall, behind the passenger airbag in this gen?

Well, he said that the cad "HAD" a remote start. I assume by that he means that it doesn't anymore, so it may be more difficult to find that resistor pack.

I'm pretty sure it had one at one time, because there was a sticker that warned to disconnect the battery before servicing because of the remote start, and there's a wire running along the strut brace that doesn't look like it is supposed to be there.

It's almost certain that there was one at one time. It may even still be there. You;ll have to dig around under the dash and look for the remote start module...but more importantly, look for that yellow wire and the resistor pack so that you can fix your problem.