Rice Pipe Introduction
Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 11:23 am
This thread is to discuss building, using, modifying a genuine Rice Pipe intake. This is a great intake option for some cars, one of the cheaper "accepted" or "real" ones out there.
At your local Autozone you can find an intake pipe for a 92-00 Honda civic/94-00 Acura Integra. It's around $40 and in some blister packaging. It's is 3" in diameter, and has about a 45* bend. It has two IAT places, one is a metal pipe, that extends from the bend, the other is a hole next to it. The hole is slightly too big for our IAT, it will fall out, and duct tape will not work (tried). Using the metal pipe, with supplied rubber hose will work, but there's a better place. K&N X-stream filters include an IAT hole, which is where the IAT would be in the stock airbox, right in the filter. Other filters can be drilled for this as well.
The supplied reducer may work as a velocity stack. It actually gets smaller where it's suppsed to hook up. You could run it into the TB while still running a clamping reducer on top of it and the TB. You'll need to pull ou the TB MAF screen for this. I haven't tested this at all, but it may give good airflow.
The reducer/coupler you see here is a Samco sport one (http://www.samcosport.com) It's silicone, and is the best thing for our intakes. Silicone reducers will flex, allowing a harder mount to the airbox area, where the silicone will soak up engine flex to a degree. You can also use a Generic 3" hose clamp. I bought one, but scavenged it for it's clamps when I got my hands on the Samco. Either will work.
I haven't finished a box solution yet, and it will be a few weeks before I'm able to build anyways.
Your filter options are the ricer filter @ the store (available in 3 colors) and any Generic 3" ID cone filter. The best option is the K&N RX-4750. Many members here are running them, and Mine is sitting @ my dorm waiting for me to pick it up. The pipe angles very nicely to corner of the engine bay, where the best air is. It may need some slight adjusting on SSE/SSEi with the double washer bottle.
You'll need to cut 2-3" of the long part of the pipe. Measure it and then cut for placing the filter as close to the headlight/corner as possible. The best air is there, and it's furthest from the engine. Keep Engine Torque/flex in mind while positioning it. Keeping the filter 1-1 1/2" from the edge is a good median.
Here's a pic of just the pipe installed, and one of the area with no filter. Both are after cutting 2-3" off. Took me 8 minutes to cut thru it, with an Old hacksaw in smellbirds garage.
Impressions after dealing with the CAI for 2000 miles in 5 days?
Impressions
WOW. I never thought it would be like this. My car has the n10 GM Highflow exhaust, and that got much louder, along with the intake noise, and engine roar. I have a few videos back @ school i'll be able to post sunday night or monday of it. The power increase was substantial to say the least, and the milage shot up with premium over the stock airbox with midgrade. The car has a totally different feel, spinning tires takes no effort at all. My butt says about 20 HP, and it's believable.
The filter we used on the trip was Ol'BlueEye'sBonne's off his 99 ssei. He's already tossed it, it was shot. I had to give it back to him, for the ride home, so I've since gone back to the stock airbox. The car is about 1/3 of the volume (engine and exhaust combined) of what it used to be, and it's noticably slower. My milage has suffered as well. I can't wait to pick up my new filter on sunday night or monday and slap it in.
If it was that good with the worst filter i've ever seen, i can't imagine a brand new X-Stream...
Revisiting this topic after a few YEARS
I've since also built a heatsheild, this is not covered in this topic, due to the vast differences between cars. This is just as important as the intake itself!
At your local Autozone you can find an intake pipe for a 92-00 Honda civic/94-00 Acura Integra. It's around $40 and in some blister packaging. It's is 3" in diameter, and has about a 45* bend. It has two IAT places, one is a metal pipe, that extends from the bend, the other is a hole next to it. The hole is slightly too big for our IAT, it will fall out, and duct tape will not work (tried). Using the metal pipe, with supplied rubber hose will work, but there's a better place. K&N X-stream filters include an IAT hole, which is where the IAT would be in the stock airbox, right in the filter. Other filters can be drilled for this as well.
The supplied reducer may work as a velocity stack. It actually gets smaller where it's suppsed to hook up. You could run it into the TB while still running a clamping reducer on top of it and the TB. You'll need to pull ou the TB MAF screen for this. I haven't tested this at all, but it may give good airflow.
The reducer/coupler you see here is a Samco sport one (http://www.samcosport.com) It's silicone, and is the best thing for our intakes. Silicone reducers will flex, allowing a harder mount to the airbox area, where the silicone will soak up engine flex to a degree. You can also use a Generic 3" hose clamp. I bought one, but scavenged it for it's clamps when I got my hands on the Samco. Either will work.
I haven't finished a box solution yet, and it will be a few weeks before I'm able to build anyways.
Your filter options are the ricer filter @ the store (available in 3 colors) and any Generic 3" ID cone filter. The best option is the K&N RX-4750. Many members here are running them, and Mine is sitting @ my dorm waiting for me to pick it up. The pipe angles very nicely to corner of the engine bay, where the best air is. It may need some slight adjusting on SSE/SSEi with the double washer bottle.
You'll need to cut 2-3" of the long part of the pipe. Measure it and then cut for placing the filter as close to the headlight/corner as possible. The best air is there, and it's furthest from the engine. Keep Engine Torque/flex in mind while positioning it. Keeping the filter 1-1 1/2" from the edge is a good median.
Here's a pic of just the pipe installed, and one of the area with no filter. Both are after cutting 2-3" off. Took me 8 minutes to cut thru it, with an Old hacksaw in smellbirds garage.
Impressions after dealing with the CAI for 2000 miles in 5 days?
Impressions
WOW. I never thought it would be like this. My car has the n10 GM Highflow exhaust, and that got much louder, along with the intake noise, and engine roar. I have a few videos back @ school i'll be able to post sunday night or monday of it. The power increase was substantial to say the least, and the milage shot up with premium over the stock airbox with midgrade. The car has a totally different feel, spinning tires takes no effort at all. My butt says about 20 HP, and it's believable.
The filter we used on the trip was Ol'BlueEye'sBonne's off his 99 ssei. He's already tossed it, it was shot. I had to give it back to him, for the ride home, so I've since gone back to the stock airbox. The car is about 1/3 of the volume (engine and exhaust combined) of what it used to be, and it's noticably slower. My milage has suffered as well. I can't wait to pick up my new filter on sunday night or monday and slap it in.
If it was that good with the worst filter i've ever seen, i can't imagine a brand new X-Stream...Revisiting this topic after a few YEARS
I've since also built a heatsheild, this is not covered in this topic, due to the vast differences between cars. This is just as important as the intake itself!
