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I need to pull and clean my MAF sensor. Does anyone have pics on this process? Ive seen a few for the 95-99 series. But nothing for the '00

Its the same process. Just make sure you have a secure torx bit. I don't know the exact size bit, but I'm sure someone will chime in.

Or just dremel a notch in the top of the screw and use a flat-blade to back it out.

Use MAF cleaner (nothing else) and just spray the little wires till they are silver not brown.

T20 secure is the torx bit you'll need.

Thanks all. Ill get to this tomorrow evening. Hopefully will be good to go quickly.

David

Secure torx bits can also go by the name "tamper resistant" torx bits (in case you're shopping for them, they're one in the same). They all have the hole on the inside of the bit to match the nubby on the torx screw head itself. Removal and replacement of the MAF on a 3.8 should take you less time than it takes to pop the hood. They're a drop in cartridge on top of the TB.

Be careful when spraying the MAF cleaner into the MAF's "little wires". Those little wires, or Thermistors (little thermal resistors), are what measure the incoming air speed/velocity in Hz, and based on that measurement, compares it to a "predicted" MAF level that is based on other sensor inputs. I wouldn't put the nozzle of the sprayer right up to them, rather hold it back a few inches when spraying.

You people were right and thanks for the info, it was as simple as could be.
I will say its running better, as it was stalling in the middle of the road, running to 40 before up shifting really hard etc. Now it is strong and fast again.
Should the sensor wires have looked dirty at all? They looked relatively clean. Im not sure if the dirt I was trying to clean off should have been visible or not..

However when I took it out for a spin, I did notice the Boost PSI gauge isnt going down like it used to, it normally should return almost all of the way down to the
-10 correct? It now sits just two notches left of the center line zero at idle. It will rise as I really hit the gas but doesnt go back down like I was used to??

I do have a pic of the gauge at idle, but not sure how to include here.
Any advice?

Just because there wasn't any soot on there doesn't mean they couldn't have been dirty. Soot is generally the byproduct of an oil/gauze style air filter such as a K&N. GM actually has Service Bulletins due to the soot from people over oiling their filters. :D But even normal levels of oiling can cause soot build up over time.

And yes, cleaning it can make a difference. If those thermistors are covered with soot, dirt, or other particulate, they can cause the MAF to make errant readings as it's not metering properly. When covered with soot for example, they're not going to pick up frequency changes as quickly or accurately.