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I just changed all coils, spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and i seem to still have a slight vibration not as bad but its there. i had a misfire but the above should have taken care of that. could the ICM be week??? or a bad ground, if so where do i start? any way to test the icm?

I would do a compression check on all cylinders next.

the thing is the vibration goes away under normal driving and is there when under light load or WOT.

Hard to say without driving the car or more test results. Could be an injector failing, a valve sticking, a cracked/faulty spark plug, a bad engine mount or a worn cam lobe?

so its doubtfull that the icm is a culprit or a ground. (hopin for the easy way out ) the car has a lotta miles on it 338 000 km. ill try some injector cleaner and see if it makes a difference. still open to suggestions. thanks for the input already tho guys.

Even though you have replaced all those ignition system parts there is an accepted test (from FSM) that will help you find or eliminate an ignition misfire. Basically, here it is:
1. Start it up with the IAC disconnected and go to your coils. It says not to run for more than a couple minutes with the IAC unplugged.
2. Assuming your engine is still idling poorly/missing, you need to unplug and replug one spark plug wire at a time, noting any change in the miss/idle. It is easiest to do this at the coil end.
3. If you do NOT have an ignition problem on a given cylinder, the idle/miss should get worse, each time you unplug a wire.
If it stays the same, that is a problem cylinder/circuit.
Be sure to only unplug one at a time. Replug, before going to the next.
Here are a couple of tips if you are concerned about getting zapped.
A. You can use a pair of insulated pliers and/or wear some of those heavy rubber gloves.
B. Unplugging a wire is not as likely to "tickle" you as when you plug the wire back on the coil. So, you can eliminate the latter by shutting the engine off each time you replug a wire.
Note about coils - When you unplug a wire from the coil, you will likely notice the coil terminal arcing back to the body of the coil. This is a GOOD thing. If it doesn't arc, then suspect that coil as being weak on that side. It can be weak on one side and good on the other.

Also, you may want to, first, check to be sure you didn't cross up any wires when you replaced them.

ok the problem is only when the engine is warm i checked all the coils again and they seem to be fine. again when the engine is cold there is no problem at all runs great. there are no sensor codes but i do have a p304 which is a random multiple cylinder missfire but that was there before i changed the ignition components i just havent cleared it yet also have a code for small evap leak and the second o2 sensor. sorry i dont have the code number for that i just rember it being there. this problem is really anoying gotta get it fixed.

Check for vacuum leaks.

no leaks as far as i can tell.

trf_ssei wrote:i do have a p304 which is a random multiple cylinder missfire

I thought P0304 was "cylinder 4 misfire detected"? If so, try swapping plug with a different cylinder and clear the code. If same code comes back then its not the plug, if different code (P0302 for example) then its probably the plug. You can do this with injectors, coils and plug wires too.

sorry the code was p0300 and p0300 pending. dont know if that makes a difference for suggestions. ill try what you said 1fatcat. thanks for the suggestions.

That does make a difference. No need to try what I said.

back at square 1. well seeing as it only does it what its warm could it have somthing to do with sensors. i dont show any codes though.

Check the ohm resistance of the injectors when it's hot.

Actually, you should check them cold first. You may find enough bad ones that you will want to replace them all?

how do i do that? with them connected and the car running or unplug them and do it with the car off?

unplugged and engine off.

how would the resistance of the injectors change cold or hot. what numbers am i looking for? or am i just making sure they are all around the same?

Just make sure they are all close to one another. Resistance changes when things get hotter, but sometimes an injector can completely fail when hot and work fine when cold. A weak injector will usually have an ohm reading out of spec when cold too.

thanks for the info ill check it as soon as i get a chance. hopfully sooner than later!