PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

This post just recently hit 100,000 views. WOW.

I must have contributed 1000 of those myself for reference. Lol

First, thanks again for these solutions to these problems! A fantastic resource.

Two questions.

1.Regarding the sunroof problems, I am assuming the vent position is where the glass is tipped up in the rear? Mine will not tip up. It doesn't even try. No motor sounds, nothing. I bought a sunroof control module because I found one cheap enough but don't know if that has anything to do with it. I was wondering possibly the switch? It does slide back and forth and seems to close fine initially but after it closes it drops slightly on the right rear corner. I have my headliner down I just don't know how to proceed next since I can't vent the sunroof to perform this calibration you are talking about.

2.Regarding the water deflector in the doors, is there a possible alternative to the Polyshim Butyl Architectural tape? I inquired about some with crlaurence and it is back ordered for months. Right now it seems to only be the rear doors. If if its something temporary I don't mind having to redo it when the proper stuff is available.

widtrak77 wrote:First, thanks again for these solutions to these problems! A fantastic resource.

Two questions.

1.Regarding the sunroof problems, I am assuming the vent position is where the glass is tipped up in the rear? Mine will not tip up. It doesn't even try. No motor sounds, nothing. I bought a sunroof control module because I found one cheap enough but don't know if that has anything to do with it. I was wondering possibly the switch? It does slide back and forth and seems to close fine initially but after it closes it drops slightly on the right rear corner. I have my headliner down I just don't know how to proceed next since I can't vent the sunroof to perform this calibration you are talking about.

2.Regarding the water deflector in the doors, is there a possible alternative to the Polyshim Butyl Architectural tape? I inquired about some with crlaurence and it is back ordered for months. Right now it seems to only be the rear doors. If if its something temporary I don't mind having to redo it when the proper stuff is available.

No sunroof on mine so I can't comment, but I used this 3M Windo Weld to fix my door cards years ago now. Still holding nicely. Some black Gorilla Tape can also do the trick on the short end. The effectiveness of this job is all about how well you clean and prep those doors and water shields after removing the old butyl.

https://www.amazon.com/08612-Window-Wel ... 119&sr=8-3

widtrak77 wrote:First, thanks again for these solutions to these problems! A fantastic resource.

Two questions.

1.Regarding the sunroof problems, I am assuming the vent position is where the glass is tipped up in the rear? Mine will not tip up. It doesn't even try. No motor sounds, nothing. I bought a sunroof control module because I found one cheap enough but don't know if that has anything to do with it. I was wondering possibly the switch? It does slide back and forth and seems to close fine initially but after it closes it drops slightly on the right rear corner. I have my headliner down I just don't know how to proceed next since I can't vent the sunroof to perform this calibration you are talking about.

2.Regarding the water deflector in the doors, is there a possible alternative to the Polyshim Butyl Architectural tape? I inquired about some with crlaurence and it is back ordered for months. Right now it seems to only be the rear doors. If if its something temporary I don't mind having to redo it when the proper stuff is available.

#1. You might be using the switch improperly. To make the glass vent you need to tilt the back of the switch up like how the glass would move.

#2. ANY butyl tape will work, 3M Window Weld will be available at any auto parts store, ANY glass shop will have some varient, or there are hundreds of options available online. If you still strike out, I have cases of it myself.

Thanks for your response! Sorry I didn't check till now.

You are right I'm sure. I don't think I was trying it like that! I believe my '99 is different because I tried doing it the same way. I will let you know.

I found butyl windshield sealant on amazon but the only size I could manage was 8mm. The size seems slightly on the large side but I'm hoping I can make it work.

I actually buy the larger diameter now and just slightly stretch it as I'm applying it and you get about double the listed length.

great tip, thanks

the blend door issues on these cars is really driving me insane

I'm told cabin air filter leaks are common and have one myself. However, I'm not finding any posts about fixing that issue. Does anyone have info that could be linked here?

beengone wrote:I'm told cabin air filter leaks are common and have one myself. However, I'm not finding any posts about fixing that issue. Does anyone have info that could be linked here?

Water leaks at the cabin air filter? I've never seen it. I'd suggest creating your own thread explaining your problems with pictures.

I've got like 4 of these problems but anyway great list, very helpful!

I've had this thread bookmarked for probably 11 years at this point. With my current car I haven't had too many of the common problems yet, but I am replacing the coolant elbows soon. I saw somewhere about swapping the o rings to the GM rings instead, is that still necessary when using the dorman elbows? It's wet under them, but there isn't a noticeable amount of coolant gone since my last flush. I don't ever see it leaking so it's probably the tiniest leak at the moment but something i'm going to take care of soon

Yes, the Dorman o-rings are junk.

3 of the smaller 15-34066
1 of the larger 24502846

For the smaller o-ring you can also use 25537068.

It's the same

OK
Thanks.

I finally took care of it, and also did my intake gaskets and replaced the upper, tensioner, and valve cover gaskets. Believe it or not, the nearly 20 year old coolant elbows came out unbroken and still felt sturdy!

Nice! My original coolant elbows were the same and lasted for a very long time. They finally gave up the ghost when I did the valve cover gaskets myself.

zombie112 wrote:I finally took care of it, and also did my intake gaskets and replaced the upper, tensioner, and valve cover gaskets. Believe it or not, the nearly 20 year old coolant elbows came out unbroken and still felt sturdy!

Those are not original, they are the Dorman plastic ones. You can tell by the larger purple o-ring. OEM would be all orange.