1fatcat wrote:Charlie, I know it is not your car. I was a little upset with you because you called my info "quibble". That info was given to try to save l67poweredlss from replacing a perfectly good MAP or boost sensor or both. I even stated that the two sensor may have the same part number, meaning they could be swapped if you want to eliminate the possibility of there being a bad one.
For you to call my info quibble, after I stopped l67poweredlss from destroying his boost actuator by dumping oil into it as you suggested, is not ok with me. It is actually because of you attacking me that I don't want anything more to do with this thread. I will still give l67poweredlss advice on this if he wants it, but it will be done via PM now if he wants.
Charlie, the last time we butted heads, I still gave you advice. You ignored my advice and shotgunned parts at your car. Bypassing all tests and just guessing at a part. You claim to be wiser with age, but all I see is an ignorant, stubborn old man.
Feel free to bash the living daylights out of me now, as I will not be back on here to defend myself a second time.
fatcat,
I was the one writing the quibble. And the reason you think I ignored your advice on the ABS system, was because you didn't take the time to read the post already in the thread where i outlined the exact same test for the WSS.
But it wasn't needed, because I confirmed the BCM failure on the Tech II and the mechanic represented excellent customer service, plus tested the circuit.
I picked up one at the yard, and tested for voltage flow.
It cost $18 and took less than an hour. That's for a $700 dealer part (which at the time was dealer backordered without an availability date) with 2 hours of labor in the Peterson's. In my area, that's $100-$135/hr.
I can't think of a more time and cost effective problem-solving approach to that situation. If anybody can, I would like to hear it.
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... &hilit=ABS
I blew my cork, because you were lecturing me about "sneaking" around, and getting something for nothing from the technicians, for which i had made appointments and paid for. You did this without the slightest bit of information to support the derision.
Now you are at it again by misrepresenting that i was taking a "shotgun" approach of parts, that is not true... if you actually read the thread. The exhange between wilwren and I was a concession to the realities of auto fixes. You can cover everything thoroughly on best information. Have the right part. Reduce risk to minuscule, and the fates conspire to give you a bizarre result. Which is the part of the humor of doing your own work. A childhood friend who has had a garage for 40 yrs and was rated "The Most honest shop " and the "Best Mechanic Shop" in Philadelphia Magazine, always has the latest story of how "best practices" can yield hysterically funny results. It's just life.
If you claim your above rant was not directed at me, even though only my name was present in the quotes, then I have to take your word, although it was poor communication.
Making it personal and calling me names is an obvious ab hominem, but I it doesn't diminish my thought that you actually want to help people on the board, yet have the tact of a baseball bat. At the same time, you have a wide streak of wise*ss in you, but I happen to enjoy that immensely (and spent a good number of years at it) when it is effectively applied to humor. Which you do from time to time.
This site has many quality individuals still associated with it. But like everything else, it changes. My experience to return active as a contributor is of no value, if i don't enjoy it. I have a couple hundred problem resolutions archived at the other (old?) board, it's better that I take some time over there.
Oh, I was going to pass this on for the Boost Control check, it's pretty simple and saves time..
He did this, but make sure the actuator isn't sticking or anything. Something I didn't tell him to do was check the lines for chickens*** or rat droppings from being in that barn so long.
Unhook the vaccum source line from the boost control solenoid (BCS) and hook the vacuum source directly to the top of the BCA at the vaccum port.
Check for BCA movement as follows. Engine off, arm fully retracted (full boost position). Engine on at idle, arm fully extended (zero boost position). Give the throttle a shot and observe the arm move from extended to retracted.
Take the car for a short ride and try a couple of WOT's. With this hook up you should have full boost. DO NOT LEAVE IT SET UP THIS WAY OTHER THAN A VERY SHORT TEST DRIVE. If the BCA moves as described, replace the BCS. If the BCA does not move as described, replace the BCA.
That'll identify or deduct the Boost Control as a culprit.
To back up the missed items on the FSM list, the MAP needs to be volt checked. careful because the value range is different on the L36 and L67
The EGR reading needs to be checked at an Autozone or whatever, make sure the tindle (pindle?) moves and you aren't getting a 0% or 100% reading.
One of our mystifying problems of the MAP is that he should be getting a P0106 MAP Performance problem at WOT. The PCM is taking a serious look at MAF and MAP numbers. It's not listed in the standard codes, it's one of the double secret GM codes.
One reason he may not be getting it is that ZZP PCM, not only Opens the Loop, but also then disregards the normal MAP S-II diagnosis parameters for optimum performance. Actually it uses some tweaked Series I fuel tables. That was of a couple of years ago, somebody might want to check
