PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

cool! Thats great you didnt have to cut anything.

WAIT A MINUTE!!! you TAPED your ground wires!?!? That's ridiculous, and it won't last long. When you start blowing fuses, or start a fire under your dash, you'll know exactly where to look for the problem. A self-tapping sheet metal screw can't cost more than 3 cents at the hardware store...you should buy one, and USE IT.

haha yup i used duck tape... I know I shouldve' probably just used a self tapping screw to begin with but I don't have one... Thanks for letting me know how urgent it is to use one though! haha. I had no idea it could turn out like that. The headunit turns off everyone once in a while anyways because the ground wires get a little loose. and then i gotta take the whole thing out and retape the wires then put the headunit back in - kinda annoying... anyways i'm off to the store to get a some self tapping screws

oh yeah and is it ok to have the ground wires touching? at the moment they aren't

Pictures:



(Like the flash drive? it holds 8GB of music)
- I got self tapping screws put in there for the ground wires, and I did two seperate ones for each cord because I wasn't sure if it was OK for them to touch..

Also, that clock should read 1:32am lol

Alright, so I got my headunit installed now I'm going to be installing some comp. speakers and an amp once I get the money. But until then I'm trying to do as much as possible to prepare for when I actually have it. So I was thinking about wiring the ACC (?) to the battery for when I get my amp to hopefully make the installation go quicker. My main question is how many amps should the fuse be? Because my headunit is 50W x 4 max power and 22W x 4 rms . So that comes down to about 5 amps (divide 50 by 12 to get the amps, right?).. So should I get a 5 amp fuse? or should I get a higher amp fuse for when I get the amp, so it matches the watts that the amp is pushing?

Your wire from the battery should not have anything to do with your HU. It'll go directly from the battery to the amp, and should be fused based on the current draw from the amp. Your ACC (remote wire I'm assuming) wire will run from your HU to your amp, and will have nothing to do with your battery (for all intents and purposes). The ACC wire only tells the amp when to turn on and off based on teh status of the HU. It will probably already be protected by the fuse on the back of your head unit.

then why is this saying to connect the power lead to the battery? im really confused about that part.

On an amp the power lead (4-6ga wire usually 3/8-1/2" diameter) will connect directly to the battery. The remote lead (12-16ga thin wire usually blue in color) will go from the head unit to the amp to tell it to turn on. You will then have a ground wire same thickness/guage as the power lead that will either connect to the frame or the negative terminal on the battery. I chose to connect it directly to the battery since it is so close.

do9105, I'm a HUGE fan of do-it-yourself, in fact there are only a few things that I will pay to have someone else to do for me. However, unless I have a thorough understanding of what a project is going to require BEFORE I start, I DO NOT START the project.

With vehicle wiring, if connections are not made properly, wires are not fused correctly, and components are not "hooked up" as she should be, you can create a serious safety hazard without even knowing it. PLEASE take the time to READ and UNDERSTAND your manuals and installation guides, and DON'T skimp on things like taping your ground wires.

With that said, I am COMPLETELY willing to help you understand what you need to do in order to properly get your system installed. Please take a look at the following link whose shortcut on my desktop is aptly named "The Holy Grail of CAR Audio".

As for your question, the POWER lead does go to the battery using a 10 GA or larger power wire (based on the power requirement of your amp, and the length of the run). The ground can also be connected directly to the battery, but this is not the recommended method unless your battery is VERY close to where your amp is mounted. Otherwise, your ground should be as short as possible, and secured VERY WELL to a solid metal part of your vehicle. I like to use seat belt bolts when possible. The remote wire (blue wire from your head unit) will run from the HU to the amp and connect to the "remote turn-on" lead. This wire carries very little current and simply tells the amp when to turn on and off.

whats the best tool everyone used to cut out the plastic?

I always use a dremel.

Is there any way to hook up the adio with out goin through the lights

can you please fix the pictures in this thread?
someone is looking for some help
thanks
samz

Sorry, my domain is down at the moment. I will try to get another solution up soon.

Back online again I'm still planning to revise this too, but havn't had time yet.

Hey guys, I didn't see the issue discussed so I have a quick Q.

I am installing Dual XDMA6330 receiver. I have made my own harness that hooks right up to the factory harness and then to the deck so I can put the old deck back later. Once I hook everything up, I will get the security light blinking and the deck accepts cds, but the face plate will not turn on. Any idea on what mistake I made?

Holy old thread revival, Batman!
-When you have a new question, you should start a new thread.

Wire Harness = PAC C2R-GM32R for 00 and above. NON BOSE

hey can you load the pictures again or can you email them to me? i'm ab out to attempt this myself and it would be great to have the pictures.

im in the same boat.. i need the "if mounting right side up, cut the green lines" picture.... anyone????

+1 for fixing the images =/