PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

If you can get them cheap, it's certainly worth a try. With the radio, it will not work until unlocked with a Tech2 scan tool. When you install the replacement, it will read "THEFTLOCK" on the display and aside from warning chimes, will be completely inoperative.

As for the HVAC, if I'm not mistaken, the limits for each of the actuators is stored in the Instrument Panel Integration Module. Just in case I'm wrong, I would disconnect the battery before removing and reinstalling the replacement. On power-on, the IPIM should cycle all the actuators and store their limits.

ddalder wrote:If you can get them cheap, it's certainly worth a try. With the radio, it will not work until unlocked with a Tech2 scan tool. When you install the replacement, it will read "THEFTLOCK" on the display and aside from warning chimes, will be completely inoperative.

As for the HVAC, if I'm not mistaken, the limits for each of the actuators is stored in the Instrument Panel Integration Module. Just in case I'm wrong, I would disconnect the battery before removing and reinstalling the replacement. On power-on, the IPIM should cycle all the actuators and store their limits.

Bummer! I don't know if I know anyone that has that scan tool? I will disconnect the battery tho for sure on the hvac. I did look at the harness that goes from main plug under MC and down to ABS module, i didn't see anything odd, and it didn't go on or off messing with it either. I was able to get the lever moved on main plug, but i couldn't get any of the 4 gray plugs out to look at them? Its clean tho so like u said probably not where the fault is, weird tho my check engine light was out this morning as it had been on again, and my tire pressure light was on which has been off, and i know there's no issues with the tires as this happened before by the time i got to work and idling in park and heater went off, check engine light came back on lol.. some weird gremlin for sure somewhere!

So got the radio n the heater control, took up to my friends shop so he could unlock radio, we’ll got it unlocked but the screen doesn’t come on lol, must not be any good, I’ll take back to junkyard tomorrow. I took a chance and installed heater control without disconnecting battery and it didn’t fix issue , but least we know u can install without disconnecting battery, so my friend has access to the library of issues with all cars at the shop, so we looked up my problem and one thing that came up was the ignition switch , so then we screwed around with the switch wiggling key etc and u can just barely turn it n it will kill the engine, also sometimes screwing with it after it shuts off and u turn it back on the heater screen comes back on, so I think there’s a issue there wether it’s my problem or not it’s definitely got something going on there so I’ll replace since cheap enough and then report back .

It's not a question of whether you can or can't install it without disconnecting the battery, because you can do either. The problem is that when you install it, depending on where the actuator position sensor limits are stored, the old controller (whether it be the head or IPIM) will have those applicable to the vehicle it came out of. You may not even realize there's an issue, but your system may not work as effectively or you may notice a clicking in your dash because the system tries to command an actuator beyond its actual limit. To be absolutely sure there's no issue, I suggest disconnecting the battery and letting your system do a relearn.

Since there is no IPIM in cars without the dual climate control, any settings will be stored in the control head for sure. This "may" be the case with your car, but I just don't know for sure.

As for fixing your original problem, I really can't say I'm surprised it isn't resolved. There are too many other problems to lead me to believe this was the source. I still keep going back to a wiring/connection problem. Because of your vintage Bonneville, this "may" be very difficult to track down.

ddalder wrote:It's not a question of whether you can or can't install it without disconnecting the battery, because you can do either. The problem is that when you install it, depending on where the actuator position sensor limits are stored, the old controller (whether it be the head or IPIM) will have those applicable to the vehicle it came out of. You may not even realize there's an issue, but your system may not work as effectively or you may notice a clicking in your dash because the system tries to command an actuator beyond its actual limit. To be absolutely sure there's no issue, I suggest disconnecting the battery and letting your system do a relearn.

Since there is no IPIM in cars without the dual climate control, any settings will be stored in the control head for sure. This "may" be the case with your car, but I just don't know for sure.

As for fixing your original problem, I really can't say I'm surprised it isn't resolved. There are too many other problems to lead me to believe this was the source. I still keep going back to a wiring/connection problem. Because of your vintage Bonneville, this "may" be very difficult to track down.

I agree with you 100%, I was just waiting outside my friends shop last night and after i got the dash panel out, and it was right there i got impatient lol. I will disconnect it tonight and do a relearn . We were on shop key etc last night looking for possible causes and the ignition switch was one thing that came up, and after screwing around with it n seeing it kill the engine so easily and act very weird just barely touching it, it at least needs to be addressed wether it fixes it or not at this point i think.

You definitely don’t want a flakey ignition switch. I agree it needs to be serviced.

Switch will be here tomorrow, gonna install Saturday , looks pretty straightforward to change it?

There are several steps... You need to follow:

*** Disconnect the battery ***

1. Remove the instrument cluster/radio/HVAC trim.
2. Remove the radio.
3. Remove the ignition lock cylinder.

• i. Insert the key into the ignition lock and turn to 'RUN'.
  ii. Look through the radio opening at the lower right side of the ignition switch assembly.
  iii. Depress and hold the ignition lock cylinder retaining tab. Use a flat bladed screwdriver or other similar tool.
  iv. Pull on the ignition cylinder in order to remove it.

4. Remove the two 10mm hex head bolts that hold the ignition switch assembly into the dash.
5. Push and release the retaining tab at the rear of the switch assembly.
6. Remove the ignition switch assembly through the radio opening.
7. Disconnect the two wiring harness connectors. You will first need to pull out the orange connector position assurance locks.
8. Remove the ignition switch bulb from the side of the switch.
9. Remove the linkage that connects the switch assembly to the shifter assembly.

It basically goes back together in reverse. Hopefully this helps.

I like to update threads I start especially if it’s a issue that gets fixed , so many times people go on forums but never update what fixed their issues!! Well I think my issue is resolved with the ignition switch , you can hear the distinct clicks now etc.

https://youtu.be/tM-TzvX9kCA

I'll be interested in hearing if this solves your other problems. There's always a chance that if the IGN-1 or IGN-3 signals are interrupted that it may cause some of the other faults you've had. These are both active based on the position ignition switch (OFF, ACCY, RUN, START, etc). It certainly would never have been my first consideration.

Just wanted to update, Its been a week now and everything is working as it should still! All lights off etc. When i started seeing the issue going into park
from drive, and then seeing how my key switch was I was almost certain that would solve it, cause there was a common pattern i was seeing, and if i
would've known that cable ran into the switch i would've leaned that way before we found that funky key deal. I hope this thread will help someone else in the future with similar
issues, If u think how many times that switch is cycled in its lifetime, and its so easy to replace and not expensive either. I thank everyone for their help on this!!

I know this is an OLD thread but I am having a problem with the climate control display not lighting up,this happened after I installed an after market HU..yes I used a PAC RP3-GM13 interface so I cut NO wires.so i get everything plugged back in and the climate control no longer works no display on it.....Is there a relearning process for the computer? addressed at user ddaler